Pinion flange seal, anything special about replacing it?

[idrivemopar]

So my newly rebuilt carrier has a leak, and hasn't been driven yet. The seal on the front of the carrier where the pinion flange goes in has a slow drip. A mechanic buddy of mine indicated that special tools are required to change this seal, and I should just pull the carrier and take it back to the guys that built it, however, I don't want to take the entire axle apart if I can just replace this seal. I am guessing that the guy that built it didn't do something right there, so is there anything special about changing this seal?

 

[Jeremiah]

What rear axle is in the car?

 

[idrivemopar]

8 and 3/4

 

[daredevil]

Yes it is special. Depends on whether the pinion preload is set by crush sleeve or spacers. When rebuilding these the pinion is the first thing set,measured off the center of the ring gear carrier andthe pinion preload and depth is set. If it has spacers you can pull the yoke and should beok if you retorque properly. If its a crush sleeve maybe it works to retorque maybe not. In either case I would recheck tooth pattern. If you paid someone i,d take it back and have them correct it so its warrantable.

 

[idrivemopar]

Ok, that makes sense now, it just sucks that I have to pull the axles to drop the carrier and take it back to them. Here is where the slow drip is located.

 

[moparmarks]

I'd call John about it.

 

[Propwash]

No one brought it up, but figured i'd mention it.. It all depends on what carrier you have. The 741/742 case is pretty easy. The 489 case is the only one with a crush sleeve. If you're installing the crush sleeve in the 489; as the yoke is being torqued down the backlash must be checked until the proper preload is met. They do make a solid spacer kit to eliminate this. If that's the case, then its a similar install to the 741/742. The 741/742, jack the car up, disconnect the driveshaft, zip off the pinion nut (or if you don't have an impact-break free the nut with a breaker bar while the wheels are still on the ground), use a slide hammer, specialty tool to pull the the yoke. Seen some folks use a bar through the yoke staps when in a pinch. Once the yoke is out, use a seal puller or fine flat head to work the seal out. Grease the inside of the new seal, I also run a small bead of rtv on the outside of the seal as well....Put in the new seal. Either use a seal cup to pop in or a small rubber hammer rotating around to work in the seal flush. Bunch of different thing will work. Just don't grab a regular old hammer and start beating on it though. Be gentle not to damage the seal. Slide on the yoke and Torque the nut to 240 Ft Lbs (min.).