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Poly rear trans mount broke

Risky 64

New Member
Local time
10:46 AM
Joined
Aug 15, 2019
Messages
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Location
N. CA.
New member, first posting, not computer savvy. I have a 1964 Fury, originally a 426 (some call a street wedge) 4 speed. Now it has a 440, 18 spline trans and 3.54 Dana rear end. Its not a show car but it makes me happy and has done everything I have tried to do with it. Daily driver for years (I was in the AIR Force), flat towed my 63 Fury, now I have been drag racing it at Sonoma raceway in their gear jammer class for stick shift cars. The class is a lot of fun. Traction is a big factor in going rounds of elimination. I do run Nitto drag radials. I don't run the car hard (it has to take me home) so I leave just over 1000 rpm and shift at 4700. Dial in is usually mid to high 14 seconds. The clutch is a Centerforce diaphragm type on a 10 1/2 inch flywheel. I am not related to the late Ronnie Sox so I don't attempt to power shift. I started having problems adjusting the clutch and having enough clearance with the throw out bearing. I thought the clutch was worn and the bearing was making noise so I removed the trans. When I removed the rear mount I found the mount was broken where it bolts to the trans. The bolts were tight. The broken mount let the trans move so the stock clutch linkage was off. I was surprised to find this. I am curious if anyone else has had a problem like this. I am going to try and attach a picture of the mount. I do not run my car hard and do not leave the starting line at high rpms. Thanks for reading this lengthy post and for any advice. Love the early B bodies.


upload_2019-8-16_13-16-30.jpeg
 
:welcome: from Ky. Install drag radials=Start breakin' stuff! Looks like it's hookin pretty good. Thanks for joining!
 
would love to see some pics please,and hello from s carolina
 
Are you running solid mounts on the front too?
 
Welcome from Indiana. What does your left motor mount look like?
 
:welcome: from the foothills of NE Tennessee!
We love stories around here and sounds like you've got some to share. Looking forward to that. :thumbsup:

Good Lord, whatever company makes that mount ought to be ashamed of themselves. What crappy quality
metal! I think I'd feel better running a stock mount than that junk...
The good news is your RB is obviously making all the torques. :)
I ran the CF diaphragm type clutch for a while and never warmed up to it, wound up going back to a
3-finger critter. Harder on the left leg but more "feel" in my opinion (and everyone here tells me I'm
wrong, so there's that :) ).

And YES, by all means, we want PICS!
:xscuseless:
 
Welcome from Phoenix.
 
Welcome to the best m Mopar sight on the net.
I agree , looks like she's hookin up :D, I would have figured the rubber part of the mount would have gave up 1st.
That's some dang good rubber.
 
Still using stock rubber type engine mounts. I installed a Schumacher Creative Services adjustable torque strap several years ago. I agree with you moparedtn about the CF diaphragm clutch. It is difficult to get used to. The quick engagement it has makes staging tricky. You are not wrong when you mention the feel of the clutch. A BB (Borg & Beck 3 fingers) type clutch can be shifted faster than a diaphragm type. I still have the Hurst shifter with the long shift lever. The travel is so far I have to make an appointment to shift.
 
Still using stock rubber type engine mounts. I installed a Schumacher Creative Services adjustable torque strap several years ago. I agree with you moparedtn about the CF diaphragm clutch. It is difficult to get used to. The quick engagement it has makes staging tricky. You are not wrong when you mention the feel of the clutch. A BB (Borg & Beck 3 fingers) type clutch can be shifted faster than a diaphragm type. I still have the Hurst shifter with the long shift lever. The travel is so far I have to make an appointment to shift.
 
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