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Polyuethane bushings has no positive lock on pivot shafts

RamRunner

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Hey guys,
I need a little help, when I try to tighten the pivot shafts, they spin inside the bushing. I bought the pivot shafts from Mancini Racing, and these were the ones for poly bushings. Any advice?
 
Which pivot shafts did you get? Factory replacements, or the hotchkis version where no inner sleeve is used. Got any pictures of the set up
 
I just did mine and had loads of troubles but finally got it finished.
 

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Mancini Racing Lower Control Arm Pivot, Poly
Item #: MRE34573

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Price: $64.95



Quantity:





PRODUCT DESCRIPTION


Fits: B & E Body

•Use the lower control arm pivot from Mancini Racing to replace broken or worn originals.

•Part #34573 is intended for use with POLYURETHANE bushings. To replace a rubber bushing with a polyurethane bushing,do NOT remove the lower control armpivot bushing sleeve. Remove the original rubber bushing and clean the bushing sleeve thoroughly. Then insert the replacement polyurethane bushing and the Mancini Racing control arm pivot Part No.34573.

• Mancini Racing uses CNC technology to ensure manufacturing consistency of each lower control arm pivot,which is machined from quality steel,providing for close tolerances

Set of 2
 

CLICK TO ENLARGE

Mancini Racing Lower Control Arm Pivot, Poly
Item #: MRE34573

Write a Review
Price: $64.95



Quantity:





PRODUCT DESCRIPTION


Fits: B & E Body

•Use the lower control arm pivot from Mancini Racing to replace broken or worn originals.

•Part #34573 is intended for use with POLYURETHANE bushings. To replace a rubber bushing with a polyurethane bushing,do NOT remove the lower control armpivot bushing sleeve. Remove the original rubber bushing and clean the bushing sleeve thoroughly. Then insert the replacement polyurethane bushing and the Mancini Racing control arm pivot Part No.34573.

• Mancini Racing uses CNC technology to ensure manufacturing consistency of each lower control arm pivot,which is machined from quality steel,providing for close tolerances

Set of 2
So these use the original metal inner sleeves? Is the shaft turning inside of the sleeve or is the shaft and sleeve spinning inside the poly bushing.
 
with these you remove the old pivot shaft, and old rubber bushings, the out shell remains in place. Clean the outer shell, install new polyurethane bushings, install the pivot shafts. Now once its in I tried to install the lca, but the pivot shaft spins inside the bushing before the nut gets tight. The bushings do not move.
 
with these you remove the old pivot shaft, and old rubber bushings, the out shell remains in place. Clean the outer shell, install new polyurethane bushings, install the pivot shafts. Now once its in I tried to install the lca, but the pivot shaft spins inside the bushing before the nut gets tight. The bushings do not move.
I would get on the horn with Mancini tech, I had fitment issues with their products as well. If it's spinning inside the bushing there's no way you can use that assembly something is off. That is a critical component you definitely do not want it loose like that.
 
I agree, there would be no way maintain my ride height it is spinning inside there. I did call Mancini, and no help.
 
I don't want to return the pivot shafts, I think I need different bushings, I found out this morning the Energy Suspension no longer sell lower control arm bushings. There must be a issue with them, so I am checking into Proforged bushing kit. The price is not bad at $19.87 for the kit from Summit.
 
If I'm understanding the shaft spins while trying to torque it itself down much like a tie rod or ball joint? Have you tried an impact? Seams like once you get it to seat it should resist spinning.
 
I agree with 747, the shaft has to seat in the k member. If you don't have access to an impact you need a helper to hit the opposite side of the arm while you tighten the nut at the same time. Hope this helps.
 
As I turn the nut the shaft just spins inside the bushing, there is nothing to hold on to, and I am a long way from making contact with the k member.
 
I don't want to return the pivot shafts, I think I need different bushings, I found out this morning the Energy Suspension no longer sell lower control arm bushings. There must be a issue with them, so I am checking into Proforged bushing kit. The price is not bad at $19.87 for the kit from Summit.

What did you use to clean the litter bushing sleeve?

Also I have some PST poly bushings is you're interested send me a DM
 
As mentioned, those shafts fit into the K with an interference fit so if you get them in "snug" then tighten the nuts using an impact gun it should spin the nuts fact enough to pull the shaft in before it can spin - using a ratchet won't do the trick. But since those nuts are "lock nuts" they may have a tendency to grab and spin the shaft. An alternative would be to use a plain nut first to snug the shaft into the K and then replace the nut with the locking one. Also, since those shafts spin freely in the bushings, you could take them out, tap them into the K, tighten the nuts then push on the LCAs.
 
The taper on the front of the shaft should be making contact way before the control arm contacts the k member. The k member shouldn't actually contact the arm itself. Do you have the tortious bar in already? You shouldn't.
 
That's a good idea Stanton has about putting the shaft in and Hamer it so it seats then put on the arm.
 
Keep in mind if you use the profirged kit you will have to remove the old outer shell, which is a PITA. Mancini makes a tool to remove them, took me 4 hours to remove both shells in my LCA's with hammer and chisel like service manual recommends. My 2 opinion for what it's worth I would not install a pivot shaft assembly in my car that spins freely in the bushing.

Couple other tricks to remove outer shells, drop a hardened 1/8" washer in there and bend the outer lip of sleeve over to hold the washer in them press it out from the other side, can also tack weld a washer in there and press it out.
 
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