After weeks of searching for answers about the part numbers and applications of the MOPAR Heater/AC controller, I've learned there are no definitive answers and that those who have the controller for sale, part# 2587564, believe they are holding gold in their hands. I understand the scarcity of certain parts allow for a premium price, but I thought this was supposed to be a 'hobby', not a cutthroat business. I have seen that specific part# on the interweb for $350. Of course, that's the number I need. Or is it? So here's what I've found and here are my questions - photos included. Mopar AC/Heater Vacuum Switch pt# 2587564 replaces and is the same as #2096084 for 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967 Models: it is the 5 button a/c and heater vacuum switch for 1960 1961 Plymouth, 1965 Plymouth Fury, 1966 1967 most Chrysler, Plymouth, Dodge vehicles, Valiant, Dart, Barracuda, Belvedere, Coronet, Satellite, Charger, GTX, R/T, Polara, Monoco, Imperial. I've also found these part numbers which are supposed to supersede the #2587564… pt# 2096084 seems to be the most common and the first number to supersede the #2587564. Others are… 3502126 2587564 1995501 3431020 3895790 2820487 3895033 3431017 and this… Part Number: 2587564 [supercedes 2096084] Years: 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968 and this… Plymouth 1968-74 New MoPAR A/C Heater Vacuum Switch 3502126 repl 3431020. If you're not totally confused by now this may do it. #3502126 that fits '68 to '74 supersedes #2587564 which fits '60 to '67. I've also looked at '66/'67 wiring diagrams and '68/74' wiring diagrams and noticed the wiring for these switches are pretty much the same. BUT look at the 3 pin connectors (see the photos). On the #2587564 the 2 pin is connected (like a jumper) where on all the other switches the 2 pins are separated. Therefore, here is the question. Are these switches interchangeable? If so, you will be able to replace your '66/'67 switch for a fraction of the cost. The later '68 to '74 switch can be had for $50 not $400 for the #2587564. Any definitive information about these switches would be greatly appreciated. I'm loosing a lot of sleep thinking about this.View attachment 234289View attachment 234290View attachment 234291
Anthony Powell, Dept. 62 to 65 Mopar, 1305 North Grant Drive, Sherman, TX 75092 Or e-mail aepowell3@verizon.net ... he rebuilds these type of switches for a lot less.
i believe the part number changes whenever the supplier changes. so it could be that several different numbers will do the same thing. those things aren't rocket science on the inside. i think the main thing is following the color codes on the wires and making sure they line up with the correct terminal.
Ok, so I have one of these switch and too and have the same questions. Are they the same internally? I could use some clarification. Thanks to all.
I think there might have been a change when the firewall and ac units changed in 1974 to permit air to pass through the evaporator first before the heater core to allow for dehumidification in defrost mode. I thonk the later ones put power to the AC clutch in defrost. Distant ancient memories, hope it's a "correct" memory.
Use the 68 to 74 switch. You will need to add a piggyback spade connector unless you alter the wiring harness on the car. I think I went through the functions of the switch on the last post. If I'm not making sense give me a call and I'll walk you through it. That or you can fly me out and I'll bring you a switch and wire it in lol.
That is 100% correct. The only difference in the function of the later (not too late i.e. Ait Temp II, the buttons are in the incorrect order) is that the A/C compressor turned on with the "Defrost" function. Other than that they operate the identical. Somewhere I have pictures with a multimeter plugged into a switch showing all of the functions and how the spade terminals relate to the mode selection.
Seeing the prices of the vac switch for my 64, i repaired the vac portion with rivets and jb weld. I think Anthony changed his isp and has a different email now.
That's some good info on compatible part numbers, thanks. Unfortunately the market dictates price in most cases. People apparently buy at those prices. But, it would also seem people have great expectations of wealth on parts. I have seen the same exact parts on ebay for well over a year. Sellers need to get a clue.
I think I may have one for a 71 Roadrunner that came with a cluster I bought but I am not sure. I will check when I get home this evening but if I do I will give it to you for free. I will let you know tonight.
I DO appreciate your efforts but sadly, no, that is not the switch. The one I have/ need has 5 push buttons on the front, kinda ball and socket like, and has the vacuum hoses connect directly to the back of it.
OK, so the answer to my dilemma was this. I went onto the bay of E and bought the least expensive of the switches that resembled the one have and took my Dremel out with a tiny carbide bit, carefully removed the plastic tops of the melted over plastic and separated the two halves. I then removed the switch wafers from my old/ bad switch and put them into the replacement switch and put it back together. Now as for re-securing the two half's, I drilled down through into the main body of the switch housing and secured it with small screws. It seems to work right with the vacuum and power requirements. This will have to do until I can find the OEM correct numbered switch.
