Problems with fitting new axle seals in 8.75 axle

Milesdodge

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Hi all, I want to replace the rear axle seals but once I pulled the axle I’m pretty confused about what I’m looking at.

Firstly, in the first pic,is that the seal I can see, or is that a shoulder that it rests against?

secondly, the metal where the seal should go is horribly scarred and it looks like someone has taken a chisel to it.

I can’t see how I can actually drive the new seal in given how much the metal where it sits is damaged.

I could really use some advice, please.

E3AB8A8F-7334-46CC-9FA3-65FEB8D3227E.jpeg


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66 Sat

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You need to take all the drum brake hardware off including the backing plate and remove the axle to change the seal. There is a sticky thread on how to do it.
 

Milesdodge

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Thanks, but all the guides state that the seal can be replaced without need to remove brake hardware. My main concern is whether my pics show the remnants of the old seal still in the axle or whether that is the seal flange that the seal goes up against.
 

1 Wild R/T

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It's the remains of an old seal.... Got a 1 1/4" wrench? Use the longer side of the open end as a hook to reach in & hook the backside of the seal & then use the wrench as a fulcrum to lever the seal out.....

Is the bore chewed up or is that old grease?

There should be a slight step (maybe .050) the the seal shoulders up against... If the seal isn't driven deep enough the bearing lock ring will rub against the seal destroying it...

What year axle is it?
 

R413

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You don’t have to do anything with the brakes or backing plate to change the seal, they are not in the way.

what is going on with the spring by the star wheel? home brewed stuff there? left side of it is gone?

and that parking brake lever should be back behind the shoe when not applied. It’s parking brake applied in the photo. See how the spring is compressed.

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0C779F05-8732-42D4-8B08-EB955A849087.jpeg
 

1 Wild R/T

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R413 is right, theres some funky **** going on there...
 

66 Sat

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How can you change the inner seal without pulling everything off? I'm going off memory from when I did mine but I'm sure I had to remove the lot.
 

1 Wild R/T

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How can you change the inner seal without pulling everything off? I'm going off memory from when I did mine but I'm sure I had to remove the lot.
Take the five nuts off, side the axle out, pop the old seal, install the new seal...
 

Milesdodge

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It's the remains of an old seal.... Got a 1 1/4" wrench? Use the longer side of the open end as a hook to reach in & hook the backside of the seal & then use the wrench as a fulcrum to lever the seal out.....

Is the bore chewed up or is that old grease?

There should be a slight step (maybe .050) the the seal shoulders up against... If the seal isn't driven deep enough the bearing lock ring will rub against the seal destroying it...

What year axle is it?
Thanks, it’s a 1967 Coronet. So basically I need to remove the remains Of the seal and then take a look.
 

Milesdodge

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You don’t have to do anything with the brakes or backing plate to change the seal, they are not in the way.

what is going on with the spring by the star wheel? home brewed stuff there? left side of it is gone?

and that parking brake lever should be back behind the shoe when not applied. It’s parking brake applied in the photo. See how the spring is compressed.

View attachment 1345664

View attachment 1345665
Thank you. Yes, some nasty bodge work on that spring. I did know about it, but for some reason can’t seem to find that particular spring. I’ll look at that E brake set up too.
 

Milesdodge

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Take the five nuts off, side the axle out, pop the old seal, install the new seal...
Sure, I was just trying to work out whether the old seal was still in there and it seems it still is. Looks like some cool has been in there with a hammer and a chisel at some point
 

Milesdodge

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I do have a set Green bearings which I could install which from what I’ve read removes the necessity of having the inner seal.
 

Lefty71

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but for some reason can’t seem to find that particular spring. I’ll look at that E brake set up too.
All the hardware is available...... lotsa stuff on RockAuto yet for your car.
 

Polara426

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If that is manual adjuster not sure if the adjuster spring is available? You can convert to self adjusters.
 

Milesdodge

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Ok all, I managed to remove the old seal and get a new one in, but it was quite a job as there is damaged material that the seal has to be pushed past to seat. Only done 30 mins driving so too early to see if it’s leaking yet.
Im only able to set the axle end play by feel as I have no dial gauge.
after the trial run I noticed that the brake drum and road wheel was hot. However the end of the axle didn’t seem hot so hoping the bearing is set right and the hot brakes are due to the mismatched parts. Am now investagnating.
 

RemCharger

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Ok all, I managed to remove the old seal and get a new one in, but it was quite a job as there is damaged material that the seal has to be pushed past to seat. Only done 30 mins driving so too early to see if it’s leaking yet.
Im only able to set the axle end play by feel as I have no dial gauge.
after the trial run I noticed that the brake drum and road wheel was hot. However the end of the axle didn’t seem hot so hoping the bearing is set right and the hot brakes are due to the mismatched parts. Am now investagnating.
You want just the tiniest amount of play.
 

AR67GTX

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Could be the brakes are adjusted too tight or the rubber line to the axle housing is old and collapsing inside. If both wheels are hot after driving, it’s probably the rubber hose. If only one is hot most likely a too tight adjustment or some hang up in the wheel cylinder IMO.
 

Milesdodge

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Could be the brakes are adjusted too tight or the rubber line to the axle housing is old and collapsing inside. If both wheels are hot after driving, it’s probably the rubber hose. If only one is hot most likely a too tight adjustment or some hang up in the wheel cylinder IMO.
Thanks, all hoses and cylinders etc are new. I loosened the end play on the axle and it seems less hot now after a test run.
 

Lefty71

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You want just the tiniest amount of play.
This is what I've read as well. Actually I've heard that the factory found out the hard way that running 8-3/4's too sloppy caused them some problems... anybody else heard that??
 
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