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Proven methods to remove creases from vinyl top out of box pre install

Bricklayer58

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Location
Lititz,pa
I’m using heat gun/hair dryer would I try and work some of The creases out on the back of vinyl and then top side. And could the creases and wrinkles be to bad to install because being in box to long?
Thank you
Tom
1969 charger
 
Are you installing first?
 
I’m using heat gun/hair dryer would I try and work some of The creases out on the back of vinyl and then top side. And could the creases and wrinkles be to bad to install because being in box to long?
Thank you
Tom
1969 charger
The best thing you can do is unpack the vinyl immediately after receiving it.

Lay out as flat as you can in a warm room on a heavy blanket, or something that will avoid sagging etc with the vinyl.

I left mine in the box for probably 2 years before installation, and with a couple of weeks of laying flat in the warm....it installed just fine.

A good upholsterer or technique if doing it yourself, will get those pesky wrinkles out.

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Went through a Concours show, and the roof passed muster. :lol:
 
Nice job.
well I did not take it out right away but I’m working out the Creases it’s coming along and yes I would agree to Take my time I never done one but from the information on the internet I’m going to getrrrr done and it will turn out just fine.
Positive thinking
 
I would not worry too much about it, lay it flat for a while. The big thing too be sure of is that the 2 heat seams are the same width front to rear, that can't fix that during install, slight creases will pull out easy. My shop did not notice this on mine, one side perfect, the other bad, legendary replaced the top, but no labor, an d of course the shop wants to be paid again, never had this issue before, it looked ok from the side or front, but like **** from the rear of the car. I know the pics are hard to see, just look along the heat seam and be sure it is straight, and that the material inside was cut straight, you may need to stretch it a little to see it, and replacements are never as perfect as factory, but should be within 1/32-2/32 or so. Anyway just look at it, mine was shipped to the shop and it bit me in the ***.

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In the shops defense I purchased the top and had it shipped there to save a trip, had they supplied the top they would eat it, right or wrong is another subject.
 
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I took mine out of the box and laid it out on the roof for a week, of course it was summer time.
Kiwi had a great idea/recommendation using a heavy quilt/ moving blankets but I would lay them on top to help flatten it out if the room is not heated.. If you glass is out you can clip it to the edges pulled tight. They give you 10-12" of extra fabric so you would not damage it.

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I will be putting moving blankets and quilts on top now just got home from work.
Thanks
Tom
 
Ready to sand top of car I seen in some videos on line where 220 was used also 320 any tricks of the trade?
Thanks
Tom
 
How does the roof to rear fender seam look? Mopar didn’t give those seams as much love as cars originally without vinyl.
 
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Ready to sand top of car I seen in some videos on line where 220 was used also 320 any tricks of the trade?
Thanks
Tom
I have used 220 with no issue in the past. If you look at the rough texture of the backing of the top 80 grit would probably not show thru. One tip is to leave all of your drip rail edges long for a few weeks, mark all of your trim screw holes with a marker or tape, and keep pressing and tucking all of your edges before you do a final trim. A little heat is your friend too.
 
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