PST 1.03 bar installation

[Gord Fish]

I'm probably way over thinking this but only want to have to deal with it once. I'm installing a new set of PST 1.03 bars, I have the suspension at full hang and the torsion bar key sitting at about the 4 o'clock postion. the bars slide in pefectly but i find the adjuster screw goes in a fair way before i feel any real resistance or tension. To get to the next flat on the key it looks like I wouls have to undo the control arm to get it low enough to fit. I've searched the forum and can't seem to find a consistant answer. Attached some pics for refference if anyone has installed these and has some input.
Thanks

 

[451Mopar]

I thought those big bars did not need alot of pre-load?
I'm sure someone who has installed them will post, or just check with PST?

 

[Gord Fish]

I'm prety sure I have them correct, but want to make sure. I was hoping to get them in over the holidays but will get in touch with PST next week if needed.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Those bars are clocked 20 degrees, so mounting them on the correct side is critical. R is the passenger side. You might have to remove the upper bump stop to get the control arm low enough, but that is all you should have to do.

 

[Gord Fish]

Those bars are clocked 20 degrees, so mounting them on the correct side is critical. R is the passenger side. You might have to remove the upper bump stop to get the control arm low enough, but that is all you should have to do.

I have checked R &L and they are correct in that sense, I jsut thought there would be a little more initial preload. i really don't think they could go in any other way, to rotate the key down to the next flat i would have to seperate the ball joints.

 

[hunt2elk]

I have those bars in all 3 of my cars. They all went in fine. Remove the bump stops and pull the control arms down as far as they will go and slide the bars in. Don't seperate any ball joints.

 

[pnora]

As said lower shock bolt and remove the anchors. You need toe go one more segment 1/6 of a turn with the control arm socket. The nut on the end of the pivot shaft needs to be loose. Grease the bars ends and sockets. Reinstall the bars and anchor. Lower and install the shock bolt. Adjust as needed. Then tighten the pivot shaft nut with the weight on the wheels. The way you have it now there will be no bar tension and the car will be on its nose.

 

[66 Sat]

Before you remove anything, crank them up (weight off wheels to protect the threads) and see how you go. They look ok to me, and don't expect immediate tension.
With mine the original bars had the adjuster bolt head up inside the LCR to get tension, but with the 1.03 bars the bolt head is probably 3/4" lower than the LCR when the car is at ride height.

 

[AR67GTX]

I loosened my shocks and the LCA mount nut to get mine low enough for the bars to slide right in but the adjusted fine. If yours slid in I would say your suspension was hanging enough and they should adjust fine. To be off a whole hex on the bar would be a really drastic change. You should be good.

 

[Gord Fish]

I loosened my shocks and the LCA mount nut to get mine low enough for the bars to slide right in but the adjusted fine. If yours slid in I would say your suspension was hanging enough and they should adjust fine. To be off a whole hex on the bar would be a really drastic change. You should be good.

Thats kinda where I'm at. The pictures I posted is with the upper bumper removed and the upper A arm touching where the bumper would go. to rotate to another flat i would no longer be able to put the adjuster in the arm. With my OEM bars the key was a little farther down to slide them in (5 o'clock ish)

 

[dadsbee]

No matter what diameter bar you install, it changes NOTHING in relation to when the adjust bolt starts tightening up ! (unless you bought unclocked bars)

 

[Gord Fish]

I have those bars in all 3 of my cars. They all went in fine. Remove the bump stops and pull the control arms down as far as they will go and slide the bars in. Don't seperate any ball joints.

I think I should be good then. the upper bumps stop are out and the nut on the control arm pivot is loose. to go another full flat on the bar I dont think there would be room to get the aduster and bolt back it.

 

[Gord Fish]

No matter what diameter bar you install, it changes NOTHING in relation to when the adjust bolt starts tightening up ! (unless you bought unclocked bars)

They are brand new so they should be clocked at 20 degrees, so I'm told.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

 

[khryslerkid]

At the 3:25 mark he jacks up the lower control arm to get the new bar to go in. So does this mean the new bar is clocked a little different than the old bar he removed? Also he never loosened the LCA pivot shaft.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

At the 3:25 mark he jacks up the lower control arm to get the new bar to go in. So does this mean the new bar is clocked a little different than the old bar he removed? Also he never loosened the LCA pivot shaft.

lol You would have to ask him... Now that I think of it... He did jack the control arm up to get the bar in..

 

[Wietse]

I remember also that i removed the UCA bump stop and loosened the contol arm nut but I was able to slide the new bar in very easy and also had a little worry about the needed adjuster lenght required to take up the slack.
But it did not take much adjustment to get a good ride height once the slack was taken out, they are fairly stiff.
Good driving quality though, I feared they will be very harsh but they are not at all.

 

[Gord Fish]

I remember also that i removed the UCA bump stop and loosened the contol arm nut but I was able to slide the new bar in very easy and also had a little worry about the needed adjuster lenght required to take up the slack.
But it did not take much adjustment to get a good ride height once the slack was taken out, they are fairly stiff.
Good driving quality though, I feared they will be very harsh but they are not at all.

Thanks for the reply, I talked with a couple other guys on here and we all agreed they seem to be in fine. Just have to wait a little while to get in back on the ground and adjust as I'm doing some brake upgrades as well.

 

[JR_Charger]

Did anyone have an issue with the front end dropping too much, like this guy did (@10:55)?

I was planning to buy drop spindles, but it seems redundant if the 1.03 bars give an inch or two of drop on their own; and there are no issues with doing it with the torsion bars instead of the spindle.

 

[AR67GTX]

Not on mine. I think I read that PST made some early versions of this bar that were not indexed 20 degrees like all OEM bars, and they sat low as a result. Possibly this video was made around a pair of the early bars.