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Pushbutton Restoration

Ron H

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Here's a question for Mopar unique projects: With dash resto work, like to refurbish the trans and heater pushbuttons. I've searched the net and have thought of all sorts of ideas; but this is a tricky venture. Before I start trying the ideas collected, have any of you Mopar PB guys restored them? If ya have would appreciate hearing any suggested techniques. Thanks

Pushbutton R.jpg
 
Here's a question for Mopar unique projects: With dash resto work, like to refurbish the trans and heater pushbuttons. I've searched the net and have thought of all sorts of ideas; but this is a tricky venture. Before I start trying the ideas collected, have any of you Mopar PB guys restored them? If ya have would appreciate hearing any suggested techniques. Thanks

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may be to difficult/risky to remove the metal portion. might try to just very carefully clean, polish and then carefully paint the letter whites again by applying paint liberally and them wiping off excess so that it only fills in the recessed portions of the letters.
 
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I know the chrome sleeve pulls off the button. They are aluminium so if you slip a small screwdriver into the back of them to release the dent holding them on, you'll have to shape them to hold again. No big deal. I bought extra used ones to replace the worn scratched up ones. The heater covers do exchange with the shifter buttons. There are certain ones that don't get used much and will be in good shape.

My dodge has black plastic buttons without any letters so they were easy to clean. In your case with lighted buttons and letters, I would try and clean them up with warm soapy water and a soft toothbrush. If there is any paint missing in the letters, touch them up with a small brush with flat or semi flat paint. If you get any paint outside of the letter area, wait till its dry and buff the button with a little compound to remove. (Don't use thinner, it will ruin the plastic.) Then use soapy water and the brush again to remove any compound that gets into the letters. Find an extra one to practice on if you can. Have fun!
 
Try not to pull the buttons off of the shifter. You should use a small screwdriver and twist to open the prongs that hold them on. Just pulling them off can distort the catch inside the plastic.
Screenshot_20190112-155201.jpg


If they are loose then you need to straighten the prongs so they hold tight before reinstalling.
See how these are bent...
Screenshot_20190112-155229.jpg


Here's the little dent or punch that is holding the sleeve to the button. Gently slide a small screwdriver under this area to remove. (Both sides)
Screenshot_20190112-160122.jpg


The aluminum covers are anodized so best you can do is use a little compound to polish them.

Feel free to ask anything else on these mechanisms.
 
Khryslerkid has given a great method to do the resto on these. I also keep an eye open for these at swap meets, as I haven't seen any re-pops for sale. I picked enough up for my '63 last year at Carlisle to rebuild it, just need to polish the new ones up, and change them out.
 
Thanks guys. I have some 'mule' buttons glad to say. Getting the button off the rod is a bee-itch as I've tried doing this and no luck yet though haven't got too-too aggressive. Hoping to polish the button surface before trying to paint the letters as the surface is gnarly. Might be fruitless with the plastic used then. Trying some plastic polish/wax right now and Dremel with buffing pad. Reckon I'll then leave a coat of the wax on as masking then alcohol the recessed letter area with some real fine q-tips I got at a hobby store and then brush paint in the indent and hope for the best. I got some white enamel Testors' model car paint at the hobby store reading that this is the suggested paint to use...
 
Ever notice how seldom this intricate work isn't done even on premo restorations? Saw a Dodge sell for $100k on one of the auctions and the buttons looked crappy! I'm probably too ****; but geez, ya got a great dash redone and the buttons look wasted...
 
Ever notice how seldom this intricate work isn't done even on premo restorations? Saw a Dodge sell for $100k on one of the auctions and the buttons looked crappy! I'm probably too ****; but geez, ya got a great dash redone and the buttons look wasted...
Personally I like it when **** shows its age... but everything is to an extent I guess. Ill try to find a video or something to demonstrate what I mean by wiping off excess/ then polish. The letters would look really crisp and original that way. Also be extremely careful polishing plastic with a Dremel, it will likely eat up/ gouge the plastic if it''s going at a fast speed. Go extremely slow and use the lowest setting on Dremel. I might try to do it by hand.
 
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I've done some intricate painting before during my car resto; BUT not this tiny and on old plastic. Your posts make me wonder how this was done originally. Maybe the wipe-off method as mentioned...then not sure if the paint base used was of the type allowing this as the stuff I bought is solvent based...for model cars...maybe NOT the type of paint I should use huh? Thinking now this stuff will start eating away at the plastic.
 
Re-reading some things again, with taking in your feedback, it seems as though my 1st choice isn't the best? I should maybe use a water vs oil based paint; an acrylic vs enamel on the ancient plastic. I might be able to brush this on, let cure, and then use a buffing pad to polish away residue. Well, let me know if ya would if you think this is the better idea. Thanks again!
 
Re-reading some things again, with taking in your feedback, it seems as though my 1st choice isn't the best? I should maybe use a water vs oil based paint; an acrylic vs enamel on the ancient plastic. I might be able to brush this on, let cure, and then use a buffing pad to polish away residue. Well, let me know if ya would if you think this is the better idea. Thanks again!
A water base acrylic craft paint would work. My son acually air brushed a mural on his buddy's jeep hood with acrylic craft paint and my brother used an automotive clear over it. I couldn't believe they were compatible. It lasted for years and the last time I saw it, it still looked good.

Do not use any solvents on the plastic. If it doesn't melt it, it will dull it for sure.

Don't use any wax. Your paint will never stick. Use white compound for cleaning, or even red for real stubborn areas. It will clean off with soap and water and paint is compatible with any residue left behind.

Watch useing a rotary buffer as not to create heat and melt the plastic. As long as there is compound on the surface when buffing it should be fine. Stop while there is still a coating and remove the remaining by hand.

Have fun!
 
You may want to thin the paint a bit, for the lettering, so it will flow into the letter grooves easier.
 
Raised letters I use the eraser side of a pencil as a "stamp" to apply paint.
Concave lettering I use a brush I got from a nail polish technician.Also I have a Paasche flow pencil 1/64 tip.Paasche do have the correct paint for plastic as well.
 
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You can carefully etch the position grooves deeper with a sharp pic. Then buff and repaint. For those of you with a manual valve body . The aluminum sleeves come off easily if you drill the indent. Then you can make a fixture to hold the plastic. Cut the end of the buttons off. Glue them back together after swapping 1 and D. Slide the aluminium covers back over. Use an automatic center punch to restake them. Making the bezel to move the shifter to the right side is a little more work.
Doug

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You can carefully etch the position grooves deeper with a sharp pic. Then buff and repaint. For those of you with a manual valve body . The aluminum sleeves come off easily if you drill the indent. Then you can make a fixture to hold the plastic. Cut the end of the buttons off. Glue them back together after swapping 1 and D. Slide the aluminium covers back over. Use an automatic center punch to restake them. Making the bezel to move the shifter to the right side is a little more work.
Doug

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Hey dvw, as far as a manual valve body for a PB shift, what is involved to make that happen at the transmission, or with the cables ? What I'm referring to is to have it shift away from the neutral/reverse buttons, as your pic shows. I'd like to do that with my '63, and I plan on using a '65 cable shift 727. Thanks for any input...
 
A lot of great info! Glad I tossed this out as some of my head scratching on this I was going to move ahead with woulda been wrong. Thanks and interesting tips with manual VB. Wondered how that was done.
 
Hey dvw, as far as a manual valve body for a PB shift, what is involved to make that happen at the transmission, or with the cables ? What I'm referring to is to have it shift away from the neutral/reverse buttons, as your pic shows. I'd like to do that with my '63, and I plan on using a '65 cable shift 727. Thanks for any input...
I run a 65 trans as well. Just need the manual valve body. Same cables. The button swap isn't necessary. However with a full manual valve body the positions of D and 1 are reversed. With the the original button locations D is 1st gear Selection #1 is 3rd gear. CRT, A&A, Turbo Action all build them.
Doug
 
I run a 65 trans as well. Just need the manual valve body. Same cables. The button swap isn't necessary. However with a full manual valve body the positions of D and 1 are reversed. With the the original button locations D is 1st gear Selection #1 is 3rd gear. CRT, A&A, Turbo Action all build them.
Doug
I bought a '65 trans with a rear end for my '63 and seem to remember some advantages with the 65 and some variance with the tail shaft maybe; but don't recall anymore. It's been 15+ years as my 1st priority was installing the rear to drop the tapered. If you can clue me in thanks.
 
65 uses a slip yoke instead of a ball and trunion. It can use a standard style drive shaft if the front yoke is trimmed 1/2". The front pump and input shaft will need to swapped if you want to run a 1967 or newer converter. Also watch using 62/64 cables on a 65 Valve body. You need to reuse the 62-64 cable clevis attached to the rooster comb. The tapered axle housing can use standard replacement style axles of the correct length. But you must use a sealed "Green Type" axle bearing. There is no room for the factory axle seal.
Doug
 
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