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Pushbutton Trans Question

khryslerkid

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Getting close to firing up my 440. Doing a 20 min cam break-in. The trans is newly rebuilt also, origanal '62 727.

My question, are the internals operating the same when the trans is in neutral verses it being in neutral with the park engaged. I'm sure I have the shifter cable adjustment correct but having a chance that it might need fine tuning would it be safer, firing the engine up for the first time, for the park gear to be engaged or not. Or would it even make a difference?

Just a thought I had when doing the cable installation.
 
Are you worried about the trans being in gear? If so have the rear wheels off the ground.
 
Are you worried about the trans being in gear? If so have the rear wheels off the ground.
Not worried about the trans being in gear. Just wondering what the difference is when you have it in park while in neutral or have it out of park and neutral. You can have it both ways, not like in a newer single pump trans that doesn't have that option.
 
Not worried about the trans being in gear. Just wondering what the difference is when you have it in park while in neutral or have it out of park and neutral. You can have it both ways, not like in a newer single pump trans that doesn't have that option.
Forgot the 1965 and older aluminum trans have a rear pump. Wonder if rear pump only works when rear wheels turn? Pretty sure you can push start them. Don't know how fast you have to go.
 
Forgot the 1965 and older aluminum trans have a rear pump. Wonder if rear pump only works when rear wheels turn? Pretty sure you can push start them. Don't know how fast you have to go.
I believe it's about 20mph. I only did it one time in a '64 383. It was like popping a clutch in second gear! Got me home that night :thumbsup:
 
Getting close to firing up my 440. Doing a 20 min cam break-in. The trans is newly rebuilt also, origanal '62 727.

My question, are the internals operating the same when the trans is in neutral verses it being in neutral with the park engaged. I'm sure I have the shifter cable adjustment correct but having a chance that it might need fine tuning would it be safer, firing the engine up for the first time, for the park gear to be engaged or not. Or would it even make a difference?

Just a thought I had when doing the cable installation.

When I monkey with pushbutton transmissions, I make adjustments with the pan off. To make sure everything is lined up have a helper push the buttons several times going through the entire pattern what you are looking for is the rooster comb making contact with the neutral safety switch, and that when neutral is selected the tip of the comb rests squarely on ns. You'd be suprised how it can shift, hence going through shift pattern multiple times to make sure it stays centered.
 
When I monkey with pushbutton transmissions, I make adjustments with the pan off. To make sure everything is lined up have a helper push the buttons several times going through the entire pattern what you are looking for is the rooster comb making contact with the neutral safety switch, and that when neutral is selected the tip of the comb rests squarely on ns. You'd be suprised how it can shift, hence going through shift pattern multiple times to make sure it stays centered.

I put the selector in reverse, that's the longest reach for the cable, to get the cable to engage the spring clip. Then place the shifter in neutral, with a ohms meter on the switch, I'll adjust the wheel until I get a closed signal. Then I'll go up top, watching the meter, shift through the gears and back to neutral, then another trip through the gears and use the park leaver to set the neutral.

I clean the shifter mechanism up real good and then apply a dry silicone to all the parts. I hang the cables and run a light oil through them. Everything is back together and in great working order.

Back to my original question...
 
I put the selector in reverse, that's the longest reach for the cable, to get the cable to engage the spring clip. Then place the shifter in neutral, with a ohms meter on the switch, I'll adjust the wheel until I get a closed signal. Then I'll go up top, watching the meter, shift through the gears and back to neutral, then another trip through the gears and use the park leaver to set the neutral.

I clean the shifter mechanism up real good and then apply a dry silicone to all the parts. I hang the cables and run a light oil through them. Everything is back together and in great working order.

Back to my original question...

Oops my bad I missed the park level on/off question. I wonder if fsm explains this in detail?
 
Reading the FSM it looks like it doesn't matter if it's in park or not. In neutral, front and rear clutches are disengaged, front and rear bands are released and there's no movement on the overrunning clutch.

The FSM says, when changing the fluid, to install eight quarts of fluid, then start up and run it through the gears, then back to neutral to check level. My trans shop says to install only three quarts before start up then add the rest while running. Another question...
 
I'm 99% sure it will operate the same w/wo park engaged. The parking pawl is on the tailshaft and operates mechanically through the park cable. I've had a few of them apart and nothing in the park mechanism affects the valvebody.
 
Now, about putting 8 quarts of trans fluid in a empty trans, before start up. Can you get that much in there without an overflow? It's been too long since I've serviced a 727...
 
If the converter is empty, you can use up to 12 to fill. If its drop the pan and do the filter its 4 with the oe pan. Probably safer to drop in 4 and light it off in neutral if unsure and run it through the gears then check your level in neutral and adjust from there.
 
Getting close to firing up my 440. Doing a 20 min cam break-in. The trans is newly rebuilt also, origanal '62 727.

My question, are the internals operating the same when the trans is in neutral verses it being in neutral with the park engaged. I'm sure I have the shifter cable adjustment correct but having a chance that it might need fine tuning would it be safer, firing the engine up for the first time, for the park gear to be engaged or not. Or would it even make a difference?

Just a thought I had when doing the cable installation.

I'm 99% sure it will operate the same w/wo park engaged. The parking pawl is on the tailshaft and operates mechanically through the park cable. I've had a few of them apart and nothing in the park mechanism affects the valvebody.

Let's get back to the original question, and the correct answer. threewood's post is more than 99% correct, it is 100% correct. Put it in park and with the parking brake on so there won't be any safety issue! Now you can fire it up...
 
park catch is on the output shaft , the push buttons operate the valve body . you can have it in park and in gear if the push buttons are not adjusted correctly . but when placing the shifter into park , that level overrides all others and put the shifter into neutral .
 
Hi Fellas Not trying to steal this forum but wat type of auto fluid do you recommend ATF+4 or Dextron or what? And I would like to get rid of the old style trunnion front u joint and I was able to buy cheap a cable trans from a 65 300 ( short cables that got to the bottom of the steering colum would I be able to use the rear housing on this trans and rear output shaft on my 62 push button transmission.
thanks in advance
JIm
 
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