• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Putting motor and trans in.

dana44

Well-Known Member
Local time
5:40 PM
Joined
Nov 28, 2022
Messages
263
Reaction score
1,253
Location
North Carolina
So I'm getting closer to putting the Motor and trans in. I have been told pull the k member, go in from the bottom method. Never done a motor that way, I done many motors on other vehicles this the first on this platform.

68 Plymouth,
440, A833
Is it easier? (I don't have a lift)
 
I've pulled and installed lots of engine/trans combos before without removing the K frame etc. It's not hard....
 
If you don’t need to take the front suspension apart just put in in from the top. A lot of fuss for nothing otherwise.
 
Last edited:
Well it takes about 1 or 2 minutes to drop it on to the mounts.
2 to 4 hours to drop k frame out depending on skill and rust..
I'd leave the k alone
 
Thats what I thought, I've done many others just dropping it in from the top. However I keep hearing ''K member, just try it, your gonna like it''
 
One of the things that has helped me with installing and engine/trans from the top is to use an old creeper/furniture dolly to let the trans land on as you go down with the hoist/engine crane. Then you can use a floor jack to raise the trans up to get the cross member up and in. Been doing that for many years now....
 
My vote is for from the top. Make sure you have a couple of buddies to help wrestle the engine and trans into place. Protect the fender tops and cowl with heavy blankets, and wrap and tape the output end of the trans with a towel. Don't put any pulleys on the front balancer, because they will snag the rad support. It also helps to get the front end of the car down as low as possible. Make sure that you have the boom of the engine hoist out far enough to get the powertrain in place without running the rear upright of the hoist into your grill. Not much is worse than having to take the whole shebang out again to set it down and move the boom out a notch. Don't ask me how I know.
My friend Richard, and myself helped another friend, Earl drop his Hemi, automatic back into his freshly painted 1970 Charger R/T SE . He was really nervous about it, as some other guy's had said to do it from the bottom. Richard and I assured him we had both done a lot of engine installs over the years, and we could get it in without a scratch. We let the air out of his front tires, laid out the blankets, and had it down in place and bolted up in about 1/2 an hour. Usually the hardest and most tense part is getting the hood back on and adjusted with no scratches.
 
My vote is for from the top. Make sure you have a couple of buddies to help wrestle the engine and trans into place. Protect the fender tops and cowl with heavy blankets, and wrap and tape the output end of the trans with a towel. Don't put any pulleys on the front balancer, because they will snag the rad support. It also helps to get the front end of the car down as low as possible. Make sure that you have the boom of the engine hoist out far enough to get the powertrain in place without running the rear upright of the hoist into your grill. Not much is worse than having to take the whole shebang out again to set it down and move the boom out a notch. Don't ask me how I know.
My friend Richard, and myself helped another friend, Earl drop his Hemi, automatic back into his freshly painted 1970 Charger R/T SE . He was really nervous about it, as some other guy's had said to do it from the bottom. Richard and I assured him we had both done a lot of engine installs over the years, and we could get it in without a scratch. We let the air out of his front tires, laid out the blankets, and had it down in place and bolted up in about 1/2 an hour. Usually the hardest and most tense part is getting the hood back on and adjusted with no scratches.
Thank you, I will follow those instructions. Hopefully this hood going on is not as bad as a 70 f series pickup.
 
Putting the hood back on is also a 3 person job, with the tallest helper steadying and guiding the front center of the hood up or down.
 
I did an engine and trans by myself, on dirt from the bottom. Wouldn't be able to do it from the top on my own
200.JPG
207.JPG
 
Here's how we did mine at my painter's shop. He does a lot of tractor restorations and has this large jack for lifting them. We stuck the doors back on the car and lined them all up the same night, as well as hood and trunk lid.

P9300057.JPG


P9300056.JPG


P9300059.JPG


P9300061.JPG


P9300062.JPG
 
You guys just make the WAYYY to hard.

4 door hardtop, that is cool!
 
Yeah. I have had it 40 years, and I can count on the fingers of one hand how many I have seen at car shows. Built in Windsor, Ontario with factory bucket seats and console. Canada-only option before Polara 500 became available here.
 
People part them out. But why? They are very good looking cars. Can hardly find one for sale these days.
 
People part them out. But why? They are very good looking cars. Can hardly find one for sale these days.
Looking for a twin sister to Dave's car??:D
 
I'm with the majority here and would not pull the k frame if it is already in the car. With the help of a come-along I managed to install from the top by myself but it is way easier with 1 or 2 helpers.

PXL_20220801_183548016.MP.jpg


PXL_20220801_183701188.MP.jpg
 
Never did like using engine cranes for pulling/installing. My go to if the car can roll is a chain hoist. Yeah, gotta be careful with the pull chain but that's the hardest part but can cover things with blankets to take care of that. I have two and shortened the pull chain a good bit on one of them and that made a huge difference. Can easily get more tilt with the engine if needed without it banging against the boom....and don't have to jack with a come a long.....
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top