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Question on replacing bearing races

Coelacanth

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I've researched that it's recommended to replace bearings and races together, and they're usually sold together. I bought Timken inner and outer bearings for my '70 Charger with front disk brakes.

My old inside bearings drop right into the new rotors exactly the same was as the old rotors. Do new rotors come with the races already pressed in? The ones I bought are Dynamic Friction. If the races are already in there, but it's recommended to use the races that come with the Timken bearings, how do you remove what's inside the new rotors? I certainly wouldn't want to damage the new rotors trying to remove the races if it's not necessary.

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Use a punch and catch the lip of the bearing race, light to moderate taps going side to side so the race doesn't get cocked..

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Thanks guys. I actually watched that video this afternoon before looking at my rotors. It's a good one, it mentions a notch to be able to punch out the race, but I see no such notch. I also wonder why they'd sell rotors with races in them only for you to need to punch them out...
 
Thanks guys. I actually watched that video this afternoon before looking at my rotors. It's a good one, it mentions a notch to be able to punch out the race, but I see no such notch. I also wonder why they'd sell rotors with races in them only for you to need to punch them out...
Older rotors had notches, somewhere along the way they started eliminating the notch but made the cast hole slightly bigger so you could catch the edge... A lot of people trust the Chinese bearing races & don't change them....
 
I will definitely use the races that come with the Timken bearings, I just figured rotors wouldn't have races already pressed in if bearings typically come with races.
 
I will definitely use the races that come with the Timken bearings, I just figured rotors wouldn't have races already pressed in if bearings typically come with races.
When they machine the rotors the races are where they mount the rotor making sure the braking surfaces are concentric with the bearings...
 
On my wagon, I got a set of Timkens to replace what I assumed was Chinesium units for the disc conversion. Turned out they were already Timkens. Whoohoo! But...the left rotor didn't have any sort of relief/notch etc to allow me to knock the inner bearing race out. Since that sides bearings looked fine, had a tick up front when rolling, I cleaned and repacked. Bearings didn't have enough grease. Went to the rh side and it did have a relief so the inner race could be knocked out. Since they too were Timkens, in good shape, but not enough grease, I cleaned and repacked. At least the tick is gone for all my efforts. The ones I bought off the Rock will not go to waste. Use them for the 65 when its time.

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When I first started working on my car in the 80s I also assumed if there is a race in the disc it must be there to be used, and thought maybe the race that came with the bearing was there to protect it in shipping. Add to that it didn’t look like the race was removable and counter guy had no idea. Anyway always just slapped it together and hit the road with no problem but I was probably lucky.
 
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