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Question regarding bell housing/crank alignment

64SF

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I’ve read a great deal about aligning the bell housing and crankshaft center. I have a diaphragm pressure plate (installed). ...do I need to remove it and attach the magnetic dial indicator base or can I attach the base to the pressure plate? The engine is installed...I’m replacing the 4 speed.
 
All that matters is that your dial indicator is mounted solid and not rocky. You don't want to create a false reading.
 
Make sure you check the bolting face of the bell housing first, then check the bore.
I've had Lakewood scattershields that I had to have Blanchard ground on both surfaces
to get them flat. If the bore is within 0.003, you're good, but the face has to be within
0.002.Use the offset dowel kits to move the bell housing radially. Good luck!
 
I had never heard of bell housing runout before I had problems with my Passon serviced 833. I got it back from Jamie and it started popping out of 2nd gear. When I tried everything that was recommended and it didn't help, I sent it back to Jamie P.
He found wear on new parts that indicated the runout was off. I fixed that with 1 offset dowl and 1 new straight dowel. Unfortunately that didn't fix the popping out problem, and Passon has my 833 again.
The 855 is working fine.
 
Do not believe there is any way you could get indicator base mounted solidly enough to pp for accurate readings. Solid mounting is very important ! Pull the plate and disc and do it right.
 
I had never heard of bell housing runout before I had problems with my Passon serviced 833. I got it back from Jamie and it started popping out of 2nd gear. When I tried everything that was recommended and it didn't help, I sent it back to Jamie P.
He found wear on new parts that indicated the runout was off. I fixed that with 1 offset dowl and 1 new straight dowel. Unfortunately that didn't fix the popping out problem, and Passon has my 833 again.
The 855 is working fine.

Did you do it while the engine was in the car?
 
@64SF
Check out these videos. I believe the spec for Mopar is .010 w/in centered or less.
The mount must be as stable as possible!
 
Take the pressure plate and disc off. Mount the indicator to the flywheel. Get it as close to "0" as you can, but IIRC the spec is .010 or less. I like the offset dowels from Rob Mc.
 
Take the pressure plate and disc off. Mount the indicator to the flywheel. Get it as close to "0" as you can, but IIRC the spec is .010 or less. I like the offset dowels from Rob Mc.
AGREE to ALL of that!
I got 2 of each size offset, including zero offset, of the Rob Mc dowels from Passon Performance. I wound up using 1 zero offset and 1 7° if I recall correctly, but that was me, YRMV.
 
Every time you return to your start position the indicator must return to zero. If not something is moving. With a scattershield you must have the blockplate installed and ALL of the nuts and bolts torqued down tight. Any corrections made should use two dowels of the same offset and oriented in the same direction. Line honing moves the crank up in the block. Just one cause for correction.
 
I will say this:
When I pull the Passon 855 5 speed out to replace my throw out bearing I'll check the bellhousing runout again.
Depending on when I get to that, I may make some major changes.
Blowproof bellhousing, major clutch disc and pressure plate upgrade, and likely a hydraulic clutch to make it easier on my old beat up knee, so I can keep the 3,000 plus pounds of clamping pressure without crippling myself after a week of stop and go traffic during Cruisin the Coast.
 
I don't see how a hydrolic throw out bearing can make for a lighter pedal. Unless you have a lot of binding and friction in your present linkage. Lighter pedal comes with increased pedal travel. Do you want that?
 
What kind of pressure plate is it? Borg & Beck, Long or diaphragm? Or something else? Street,street and strip or race only? The three finger style can get some big clamp numbers,like your 3k. A diaphragm not really as the Bellevue?spring has a mechanical advantage built in. Sounds like you should ask about a diaphragm clutch.
 
Thanks for the tip on the hydraulic throw out bearing.
I went from a Borg and Beck 3 finger street/strip with quite a bit of clamping pressure (2,800#??) to a diaphragm style pp that is over 3k# clamping pressure. The pedal effort is a little less than the 3 finger, smoother throughout the stroke of the clutch pedal, and a nice street/strip unit. Both from McLeod.
It's just my knee has some issues, like a few of my hard used, aging body parts.
Thanks for the info.
 
Hydraulic throw out bearing, you will love it! So much better than the mechanical linkage and opens up more room.
 
Hydraulic throw out bearing, you will love it! So much better than the mechanical linkage and opens up more room.
Thanks. I had a stock hydraulic clutch in my 89 Chrysler (Mitsu) Conquest TSi.
I am going to try the CLUTCHTAMER so I may need to step up major if I'm going to slip the clutch under that kind of power, and in preparation for my 6XX HP and torque motor.
We'll see.
 
I forgot to add - the bell has to be properly mounted and bolted with all the bolts. Best to have the starter on there too.

As far as the hydraulic vs mechanical... The improvement in hydraulics is the hydraulics... Bigger bore clutch master means less force required to move the bearing and disengage the clutch. It's giving the pedal more leverage, be it mechanical or hydraulics. Same same.
 
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