Questions on my torque converter choice

[17WithaCoronetRT]

Me and my dad recently picked up a high stall torque converter from a swap meet. Heres a link to what we picked up:http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/TC-CR10H.html

We have a plan for what we want to build, and we were wondering if we may run into any issues with compatibility or if we should switch any parts out.

This is what we have so far:
-1967 440 black bored .030
-915 Heads
-Crower hdp 282 cam
-Weiand action plus intake (about to purchase)
-Holley 3310 series carb (also about to purchase)

this goes along with a 727 auto trans and a stock 3:23 rear end.

if you guys could give me some knowledge on how all of this would run together it would be much appreciated, thanks so much!

 

[Propwash]

That torque converter is for a 225 /6 and 318 according to the description.?.?

A ton of variables go into picking out the proper torque converter. Here's a link to a spec sheet from PTC. All these items should be addressed when picking out the converter. Failure to do so could end up with a burnt up tranny or a car that launches like it's running on half a lung. Another plus to have is Max Torque and the RPM it hits, but that will take a dyno. I would see if the company that built that converter can give you some valuable info like the foot braking stall and/or the flash stall of that converter. Also, is it for and internally or externally balanced motor? Hindsight is 20/20, but the best bet for picking out a converter is filling out one of these spec sheets and speaking with the manufacture directly to figure out the best fit for your car. Good luck



http://www.ptcrace.com/spec-sheet-pm-23.html?osCsid=e6b99a078de7fe3198f229e2ec68d55a

 

[17WithaCoronetRT]

wow i made a mistake in the identification, i can assure you it is a torque converter for a big block, i will find the correct information as soon as possible, im sorry. will post again soon!

 

[Propwash]

No need to apologize man.....Just make sure you have your torque converter dialed into the rest of your car. It's one commonly misunderstood part of the whole driveline combination that you don't want to skimp on. Doing so and your really missing out on performance and/or sending your tranny to an early grave. Best of luck to ya.

 

[Meep-Meep]

If that 282 deg cam is on a 108 deg lobe separation then you won't be happy with the 3.23's much less with the converter. If approaching 112 LS then you'd be better off and can probably get by with about 2500 RPM stall.

 

[383man]

The best thing you can do with a torque converter on your hotrod build is to have one built for it. When you have all the info about the car call the converter company you want to use and let them tell you and build what converter you will need for your combo. Thats the way to get the best performance from it. Sure it will run with the converter you picked up but you dont know if it will work good with your combo. Thats just the way I would do it for my hotrod. Picking one up as you did is fine for a car thats all stock but not to get the best stall and flash in the converter. Its just that that converter may not work to good for your combo. Ron

 

[transman]

If you buy a used high stall, unless you know all about what it was behind, what tire size the car had, what gear ration the diff had, etc. etc. etc., you'll never know how it will perform in your car. After years in the industry, most of the used converters I saw made great door stops and that's about all. Further more, because it's a welded together piece, you don't know what condition it's like inside. For all you know, it's ready to come apart, and your money just went down the drain. A high stall should be built / purchased FOR YOUR APPLICATION, not something that was used in another car. Properly applied, a high stall is a great bang for the buck, improperly applied, probably one of the worse spent dollars. I'm going to try and post an application chart for you. Take it to your preferred converter supplier and get one built. Don't BS on the sheet, as you're only fooling yourself. If you've had the engine dyno'd, supply the dyno sheet to the converter supplier. If your converter supplier of choice says he doesn't need your sheet, RUN from this guy, as he's interested in selling you a converter, but if it performs poorly, he'll put the blame on you.
It doesn't look like I can post the spec sheet here, so send me an email: ----------------------- and I'll forward it to you.
DO IT RIGHT: ONCE