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Quick checklist of work underway to run by my Racers Hangout "friends"...

biomedtechguy

Accelerati Rapidus Maximus
FBBO Gold Member
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"Friends" in quotes because some of you may just tolerate me :D Regardless, I really appreciate it, and if you would please take a quick look, I want to see if I'm missing anything that I should do now that would be a LOT harder or impossible or a LOT more expensive to do later.
The things I'm doing and buying I'm doing in preparation for the appx 700HP/TQ stroker I have planned, and because I'm upgrading my traction capabilities.
USCT torque boxes, front and rear, and subframe connectors.
AR inner (front) spring hanger plates, and factory outer (rear) plates.
Calvert split mono leaf springs and sliders.
Assassin traction bars.
Viking Warrior rear shocks, double or triple adjustable.
Strange chromoly steel pinion yoke and caps, and their chromoly driveshaft with chromoly slip yoke and solid 1350 U-joints.
Hydramax hydraulic throwout bearing conversion kit and HitMaster launch control system.
I already have the Mancini Racing driveshaft safety loop.
Wilwood 6 piston 4 wheel manual disc brakes
Line Lock
Cold Case radiator w/Stant SuperStat 180° thermostat and a billet aluminum water neck/thermostat housing w/rubber O ring seal.
Complete QA1 front suspension and K-member w/SPC UCAs
Mity Mount motor mounts
I'm leaving a lot off that's being done because it doesn't have anything to do with:
Going straight
Launching hard
Stopping fast and safely
Bracing up the parts of the car that are going to be subjected to forces at a new, higher level than I've ever done before.
Things like a "blowproof" bellhousing can be done with the engine installation. Same thing for a roll cage, has nothing to do with what's going on right now vs doing it later, as far as I know.
Anyway, that's it.
If you think there's anything else I should do right now because I should, because later it's going to be a lot harder or more expensive, please let me know.
Thanks
 
Are you planning a change in overall rear tire height?. If so you may want to entertain setting up that along with any rear end gear changes so the back of the car is done ,with a known ride height so you can also set the pinion angle when you install the new springs and shocks.
 
Missing one thing...cold beer for your friends :drinks:

:D
 
Are you planning a change in overall rear tire height?
I'm sure that will happen. The 315/35/17 Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials have been the only tire on my car since I got the aluminum Rallye wheels. Overall I like them, a LOT, but I'm about to try the 345/40/17 version, and later I may try some M/T tires. The Calvert split mono leaf springs are installed along with the sliders. I've got the ride height measurement for the shocks.
With the adjustability of the Assassin traction bars, as far as I know, that's about the only real adjustment I can make?
4.10s are staying, with plans of taller tires in the future if I need to reduce finish line RPMs. I have my 3.54s still as well in a box.
 
Bio, as you are doing the stiffing project talk with your mechanic/fab man about the roll bar. This is a strong point for the stiffing project. I did the subframe and it changed up everything. But now that I have started the roll bar and only have the big hoop and rear bars in I can tell it has made even a better suspension. Just my couple cents worth. Also make sure your upper shock mount is in great shape does it need to be upgraded.
 
talk with your mechanic/fab man about the roll bar.
The roll bar has absolutely got to wait until after the stroker motor is completed, which in itself is likely to be a struggle to pay for. My goal is to have the stroker built and in by October 1 2021. I have a local guy who has a bending machine for chromoly roll cage tubing, and he's my paint and body guy who is reasonable and outstanding in the work he does.
make sure your upper shock mount is in great shape does it need to be upgraded.
I don't even know what to look for or suggest that the guy working on my car now look for, BUT he deals w/4 wheel drive vehicles a LOT, so he should know what you mean I would expect if I ask him to check the upper shock mounts?
In the case of the GTO, I knew to get UMI upper rear control arm mount braces, because their weakness is a known issue and there are products designed to address that. What is available or what can be done to reinforce or rehabilitate ratty upper shock mounts in my car should it need it?
Thanks!
 
Bio, the biggest thing is to make sure it is solid and not torn from the frame rails. Your man can also add gussets for extra support. If he deals with the four wheelers he will know what to look fore. Read alot on this forum about this issue it's just a heads up thing. I'm sure he will inspect it while installing the rear springs etc.
 
Bio, the biggest thing is to make sure it is solid and not torn from the frame rails. Your man can also add gussets for extra support. If he deals with the four wheelers he will know what to look fore. Read alot on this forum about this issue it's just a heads up thing. I'm sure he will inspect it while installing the rear springs etc.
Thanks @bearman !
That kind of information is what I'm looking for. As odd as it may sound, I covered something a little like that when I specced out the rear suspension of my wife's GTO. I guess having UMI offer bracing for the control arm mounts was the telltale sign that it needed to be addressed. I didn't know much about the 64-67 GM A body suspension, but once I got into it, and I was thinking I was going triangulated 4 link on my Roadrunner (but got talked into the Calvert split mono leaf springs) once I got into the rear suspension I was a little jealous. I saw a picture of the upper control arm mount of an A body GM that was twisted up pretty badly. Anyway, since everything else was UMI I got this:
(stock photo, not our GTO)
4029af_LRG.jpg
Screenshot_20200702-182557_Chrome.jpg

And UMI says:
"These tubular reinforcements tie the upper and lower control arm mounts together for added strength and driving performance."
So anyway, it was easy to get all of the high end and complimentary parts for the GTO, and boy did I...All to go along with the Quick Performance Ford 9" based rear axle assembly. I went all out and got the full compliment of UMI suspension parts for her car, and we are about to go with a permanent coilover conversion setup, compliments of Doug at Global West, who really hooked me up on the couple of items required to get that done.
I'll make sure to mention the upper shock mounts. The leaf springs are already installed, but he has to install the AR front and factory rear hanger plates, so he will be in that area again,
AND....(this is a big deal to me)
I got my Viking rear shocks ordered today!
:thumbsup: :bananadance:
I started out talking with tech support at Viking, and they were really helpful and patient.
I already have the Viking B202 double adjustable front shocks. The B202 were around $360/pair.
I really stepped up for the rear shocks, given that I expect a LOT from them, especially once I have the 541 cu in beast "sending the pain" to them, and wanting to run drag radials as much as possible and with a manual transmission on top of that, I wanted to get a pair of rear shocks that would give me the best opportunity to get it dialed in and hookin' and bookin' :bananadance:
I got the Warrior "SX" (StreetXtreme) :bananadance:triple adjustable rear shocks. According to Viking, the StreetXtreme valving is performance oriented - it provides a great ride on the street but is capable of generating higher forces for more competitive track events. The "triple" adjustable aspect affects compression, giving me low speed and high speed compression adjustability.
*19 positions of rebound, 22 positions of low speed compression and 23 positions of high speed compression.
So that's another box checked off. They usually sell for $650/pair but my engine builder actually signed up with Viking to retail their product because that's the brand I wanted, and he hooked me up with a good price. $650 is a chunk of change, for sure, but like I said, anything I had planned to upgrade or buy once the BME stroker goes in that I am upgrading or buying now because of all of the other work going on now dictates it, integrates with it, well there's no sense in getting something now and then having to turn around and get something better in a year or so once the stroker build is done.
 
Right now, factory V-code/Hemi 3/8" fuel line and the popular Carter M6903 mech fuel pump. "Stock" pressure (7 psi or so)
but 120 GPH volume.
 
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Sump the tank and set it up for a return line. You’ll need to upgrade for the big engine.
 
I have to look at that or getting the whole setup prefabbed.
That's going to have to wait.
As careful as I've been to have everything lined up parts wise, there have been a lot of add ons and I'm reaching the end of money available for this stage, and I still have a HUGE labor bill to pay.
I'll note that for the future!
 
I have to look at that or getting the whole setup prefabbed.
That's going to have to wait.
As careful as I've been to have everything lined up parts wise, there have been a lot of add ons and I'm reaching the end of money available for this stage, and I still have a HUGE labor bill to pay.
I'll note that for the future!
Raise your billing rate :poke:
:D

Why did I think you were going to have a fuel cell?
:usflag:
 
Raise your billing rate :poke::D
Lol..I could probably just make a few phone calls and emails to get a little more work...
Why did I think you were going to have a fuel cell?
Fuel cell? Definitely NOT in the plans, now or in the future. I think either modding my existing tank, which I am pretty sure is in good shape, and I may just add an external fuel pump at the tank, or one of those "pump+sump" things. From what I gathered in our first broad chat about the stroker build, I think they may be more inclined to use my Promax modded Holley 2bbl carbs than the F&B 3x2 EFI system.
I'm going to be fine until then with the Carter at 120 GPH.
 
Sorry to hear the EFI won't be on. Also believe your your fuel system is NOT up to the task and will hold you back.
You won't know it 'till you upgrade and see your timeslip.:drinks:
 
Sorry to hear the EFI won't be on.
Not necessarily my friend!!
The giant lightning bolt that struck me and drove me to :realcrazy:madness:realcrazy: over the Weiand P3690982 6bbl intake was the 3x2 EFI version of it, and I'm not sure if I first saw it on the F&B site or if it was mmosley's (Mike's) A-body forum Barracuda that has that F&B setup, but I couldn't stop thinking about it until I finally had the intake myself.
Once I secured a really nice example of that intake, I have always planned on starting out with the Weiand and Promax modded Holley 2bbl carbs on my current motor, and then move them to the stroker, once the intake runners are opened up to :bananadance:Max Wedge:bananadance:port size to go with the TF270s. I also am going to get it polished, now that I've had a quote for the labor that I can rationalize. Mike, with the Barracuda is taking his time, but he's very meticulous and his ride is going to be spectacular, I just hope I get some performance feedback from someone using the Weiand and the F&B 3x2 EFI system. The CFM capacity I've heard the F&B setup brings vs the "issue" that was alluded to seem contradictory. I think the best thing is to run the carbs I have, and let a couple of other people who have the intake and 3x2 EFI system post their results, and I've got time.
Also believe your your fuel system is NOT up to the task and will hold you back.
You should know buddy.
A fuel system upgrade will be factored in as a MUST DO as part of completing the stroker installation. That is not something I'm doing now though, and it's not related to anything I'm upgrading, adding, or modifying right now, so the fuel system can wait.
Thanks!
PS: I would like to see a picture of that hood though! :D:poke::)
 
I see a lot of chatter about go-fast parts, and stiffening up the rear end etc. Are you planning on going around corners nicely, or just leaving that department to the lap of the road gods?

I know next to nothing about QA1 suspension....so can I ask you if their parts are actually beefier than the stock steering and suspension components ever were? And are they going to be easy to install, or will serious modification be required. I recall several occasions where members here have had difficulty with fitting their parts up.

One of the plans I had for my GTX going back a couple of years was to use heavier track rods from a C-Body, and upgrade the idler arm to a needle roller setup, and install adjustable front strut rods from Hotchkis or similar.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hss-14366/year/1970/make/plymouth/model/gtx

One of the weakest parts of the stock setup is the steering and loading components for cornering. Most people concentrate on brakes and making them big, without considering the other important items.

Just my 5 cents worth. :)
 
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