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Radiator advice

TexasRoadRunner68

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I’m looking to go with a modern aluminum radiator for my car. It’ll be driven in Texas during summer. I ordered a 440 source water pump and housing. I hear electric fans are better for traffic. I have an original mechanical fan as well. What would your advice be? I know cold case is thrown around a lot. I did also find one with electric fans for a seemingly decent price online.

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I’m looking to go with a modern aluminum radiator for my car. It’ll be driven in Texas during summer. I ordered a 440 source water pump and housing. I hear electric fans are better for traffic. I have an original mechanical fan as well. What would your advice be? I know cold case is thrown around a lot. I did also find one with electric fans for a seemingly decent price online.

View attachment 1449095

View attachment 1449096

I ordered a 22” from ECP W/O fan, your second pic. I talked to Frank, great guy to talk to, super easy business transaction, boxed great & fast delivery, it fit perfect. Highly recommend.
 
Agree with ruffcut, ordered a 440 source housing & bought the flow cooler pump
 
You want honest advise? Have that OE radiator you were considering junking recorded. Run a factory 7 blade curled tip fixed non-clutch fan. Shroud or no shroud and it'll cool just fine. Just like it did in 1970.
 
I have the Cold Case MOP754AK Works great.
 
Here we go again. From Flokooler, 5000 cfm fans to the original 7 blade fan can cool the baddest motors of them all, and that crap wetter water there’s all kinds of ways to cool a car but I absolutely do not like that fan shroud you posted. I’m not going to get in to any arguments on what’s the best but I’m going to tell you what works for me starting from the beginning. I use Prestone antifreeze mixed 50/50 with Distilled water, a NOS 180 stant hi-flo thermostat, Mancini racing aluminum water pump kit (6 fin), Gates Upper and Lower Hoses and a BeCool Set up. Your part number may be 80269 but I used 80270 which is a drivers side outlet. Yeah it’s expensive but it works great for me. I’ve never had a BB to cool as good as this one, it’s the best set up I’ve ever had. Even Fastman noticed it and recommended me to only kick on 1 fan at a time since it cools so fast and their only 2 11” fans at 2800 cfm total.
 
There is more to cooling than spending money on all these trick of the day cooling system parts.

how is you AF mixture?

Never needed all this high tech stuff to cool a car back in the day, and it was plenty hot out before they made up this climate chafe BS.
 
There is more to cooling than spending money on all these trick of the day cooling system parts.
how is you AF mixture?
Never needed all this high tech stuff to cool a car back in the day, and it was plenty hot out before they made up this climate chafe BS.
Timing curve and degrees of advance, better still vacuum advance certainly can help the engine run cooler.
Don't think that more advance equals higher temps either. Most efficiency in the combustion chambers = enough advance, and vacuum is the only way I can think of to assure the best balance and enough advance.
 
Here we go again. From Flokooler, 5000 cfm fans to the original 7 blade fan can cool the baddest motors of them all, and that crap wetter water there’s all kinds of ways to cool a car but I absolutely do not like that fan shroud you posted. I’m not going to get in to any arguments on what’s the best but I’m going to tell you what works for me starting from the beginning. I use Prestone antifreeze mixed 50/50 with Distilled water, a NOS 180 stant hi-flo thermostat, Mancini racing aluminum water pump kit (6 fin), Gates Upper and Lower Hoses and a BeCool Set up. Your part number may be 80269 but I used 80270 which is a drivers side outlet. Yeah it’s expensive but it works great for me. I’ve never had a BB to cool as good as this one, it’s the best set up I’ve ever had. Even Fastman noticed it and recommended me to only kick on 1 fan at a time since it cools so fast and their only 2 11” fans at 2800 cfm total.
Are you saying the flow cooler pump is ****?
 
You want honest advise? Have that OE radiator you were considering junking recorded. Run a factory 7 blade curled tip fixed non-clutch fan. Shroud or no shroud and it'll cool just fine. Just like it did in 1970.

That's what Glen-Ray said too
 
That's what Glen-Ray said too
Of course they did! Like any GOOD radiator shop.

Do people not think that Chrysler's engineers figured out how many BTU's of heat they needed to extract via the radiator to keep these cars moving down the road? Do you think any of these so called "better aftermarket options" take the time to do that. I have 5 cars and they all have OE radiators and fans on them. Some with shrouds, some without. Every friggin one of them runs right on the thermostat no matter the outside temperature! Today it was 28C.. 83 F.
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Of course they did! Like any GOOD radiator shop.

Do people not think that Chrysler's engineers figured out how many BTU's of heat they needed to extract via the radiator to keep these cars moving down the road? Do you think any of these so called "better aftermarket options" take the time to do that. I have 5 cars and they all have OE radiators and fans on them. Some with shrouds, some without. Every friggin one of them runs right on the thermostat no matter the outside temperature! Today it was 28C.. 83 F.View attachment 1450580
Was told basically the same thing
 
What worked for me on my 440 in Yuma, AZ summers......
Aluminum 26" stock profile radiator from Autocity1958 on Ebay
Aluminum Ebay waterpump housing
Stock waterpump
6 blade fan with thermal clutch
Factory fan shroud
180 degree thermostat.

The only reason I didn't go with Glen Ray is price. And I didn't have a core radiator.
 
On my build I did not have anything to start with. I was concerned about the 528 Hemi with A/C heating up. I even bought a radiator cap with a gauge as I did not believe my factory gauge. The Cold Case with the dual fans works very well. I never see on the hottest days above half way in traffic at idle or car cruises.. Running 180 Thermostat. With that being said if i had a stock 26 inch radiator, fan, and shroud to start with it would of been a no brainer to have my stock tanks fitted with the biggest core possible. Stock when fitted to the system is simple and it works. KISS theory applies.
 
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I had an aluminum champion radiator with two electric fans on a 383 with an aftermarket 6 pack and the car ran really hot when stopped in traffic or slow cruising through town. I found an original 22” radiator and flushed and back flushed it as well as the heater core with extremely hot water until no particles came out in either direction. installed it with the correct shroud and 50/50 antifreeze and have never had a problem since. It runs up to 180 and stays there no matter the circumstances. Dog days, stop and go traffic…… all is good. Save your money and keep it stock. It worked back then and will still work now.
 
I keep sayin it, but nobody wants to listen. Almost 30C here today, cruised 5+ towns on a 90 mile cruise holdin up traffic in first and second gear. 426 Hemi, factory correct radiator for the '66 and a 7 blade, curled tip OE fixed fan from a '68/69. Ran FIVE degrees above the 190 stat all day long!
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But it gets MUCH hotter in TEXAS :) , my junker runs 185ish all day long 108 degree day with the Cold AC on, ECP 2 row radiator & 4000cfm Derale fans & shroud
 
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