radiator upgrade

Celt69

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So decided I needed a radiator shroud upgrade (or at least A shroud - none there). Measured up my existing rad on my '67 Belvedere with a 440 (452) and A727 and it is 22". Looked up the part no. and it is indeed a 22" from a 1965 B body with a 318 and automatic trans. Hmm... The car is a resurrected former race car so it is not unreasonable to believe it has a few "Frankenstein" things going on. My dilemma, the car currently runs at 190-220 worst case (heat soak shut off) and seems to run at 200 on average with water, Red Line Water Wetter and no thermostat. I live in one of the few areas of Canada that sees significant summer temps. (100oF here today) so cooling is a concern. I want to make this a "heater delete" car (will make a separate thread about that) and of course I want to improve my cooling. My thoughts were to go with a 26" rad with shroud but then I found this http://www.speedcooling.com/22-Mopar-BIG-BLOCK-HD-Aluminum-Radiator/prod_69.html which should bolt right up and with a shroud should be squared away. Thoughts on this rad, better options, winning lottery numbers...:)
 

texas69bee

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The opening for the 22" is just that, 22 inches. By putting a larger radiator in its place you will have more capacity for antifreeze but the opening for cooling(air flow) will still be at 22 inches. Try giving Glenn Ray radiators a call and see what he suggest. I would say change to a 3 core. More antifreeze capacity within the correct opening.

Just got done looking at your link... I like it.
 

khryslerkid

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I'm liking the radiator too!

Just my theory, but without a thermostat the coolant runs thru the radiator too fast to have time to cool.
 

Celt69

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I'm liking the radiator too!

Just my theory, but without a thermostat the coolant runs thru the radiator too fast to have time to cool.

I often wonder about that too, I think you may be right. I think that rad is a great price compared to Griffin or others, combined with a shroud and thermo it may be the ticket.
 

uwss

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I run evans coolant; 16 psi cap, and no thermostat per their recommendation. I live in Texas so I see hot weather. I have a stock 26 radiator with stock shroud. I don't drive it in very cold weather or very hot weather. Car is too valuable !
 

Celt69

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I run evans coolant; 16 psi cap, and no thermostat per their recommendation. I live in Texas so I see hot weather. I have a stock 26 radiator with stock shroud. I don't drive it in very cold weather or very hot weather. Car is too valuable !

You certainly do see hot temps down there! I hired a guy in Houston last year and although the temps are similar to what I get here the humidity is OFF the charts in Houston! I am used to 100oF with 0% humidity, not the "wall of water" everytime you go outside in Houston. I try and go in the winter only but unfortunately have a meeting there at the end of August (good times)!
 

furyus

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I bought one of these radiators for my 69 Dart Swinger 340. It was too tall. I can't fit a lever cap it's so close to the hood. The bolt holes weren't in the right place. Fortunately, I have a tig welder. The flange on the radiator for mounting a shroud didn't work with the stock shroud. I had to hand build a shroud to fit it .Before the shroud, the cooling was mediocre. After the shroud it cools awesome. I would have used a stock radiator and shroud if I could have found one.
 
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1966satellite

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radiator

So decided I needed a radiator shroud upgrade (or at least A shroud - none there). Measured up my existing rad on my '67 Belvedere with a 440 (452) and A727 and it is 22". Looked up the part no. and it is indeed a 22" from a 1965 B body with a 318 and automatic trans. Hmm... The car is a resurrected former race car so it is not unreasonable to believe it has a few "Frankenstein" things going on. My dilemma, the car currently runs at 190-220 worst case (heat soak shut off) and seems to run at 200 on average with water, Red Line Water Wetter and no thermostat. I live in one of the few areas of Canada that sees significant summer temps. (100oF here today) so cooling is a concern. I want to make this a "heater delete" car (will make a separate thread about that) and of course I want to improve my cooling. My thoughts were to go with a 26" rad with shroud but then I found this http://www.speedcooling.com/22-Mopar-BIG-BLOCK-HD-Aluminum-Radiator/prod_69.html which should bolt right up and with a shroud should be squared away. Thoughts on this rad, better options, winning lottery numbers...:)

I have a 26 inch two row with a shroud in my 66 Satellite with a slightly warmed up 440 and it doesn't get the job done. I'm thinking about getting the radiator that you are considering so I'd like to hear if it works for you. Thanks.
 

TxDon

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I've got the ECP 26" with a shroud in my GTX. It runs about 190 in the DFW heat but goes to 200 with the A/C on.
 

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Celt69

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I've got the ECP 26" with a shroud in my GTX. It runs about 190 in the DFW heat but goes to 200 with the A/C on.
That is working well then Don. How long have you had the ECP?
 

TxDon

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I just bought the car but the radiator is fairly new. I need to add a coolant recovery system to the car.
 

RJRENTON

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Gentlemen,
In another lifetime, I did heat exchanger calculations. One of the biggest factors overlooked is NOT the number of tubes, but the "fins per inch" figure. Most original mopar rads had 14 or 16 fins/inch with 2 rows of tubes (non ac applications) and 3 rows for ac applications. When I had the oem rad for my GTX repaired, #2998956, I had the option of going to 4 tubes and 18 fins/inch. I also use the Dexcool antifreeze at 60% concentration. The Dexcool has a higher specific heat (heat transfer coefficient) and a superior corrosion inhibitor package. I use a 180 degree tstat. The engine runs at 185 degrees. I also use a Flow cooler water pump. This pump has an impeller shroud and 2 more blades. The pump shroud prevents the pump from recirculating; the extra blades provides higher water velocity and higher velocity is the secret to good heat transfer.....thru the block and heads and rad. This is just mt opinion.
Cheers,
RJRENTON
 
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