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Randy Marsh's 66 Belvedere 2

Randy Marsh

Well-Known Member
Local time
10:19 AM
Joined
Jan 8, 2020
Messages
96
Reaction score
116
Location
PA
Well this is my first attempt at documenting a build so bear with me. Attempts to post pics, ect may be frustrating/amusing at times as I'm not too tech savvy.

The car is a 44k mile, all original, nothing special, 66 Belvedere 2. It's a 273, auto, bench, power steering, and nothing else car. It is however cancer free and really seems to be liking it's new owner. So far this car and I have been getting along perfectly.

This will be a far different build than any I've done in the past however. All my previous projects started with a trailer, a spot weld cutter, a pile of sheet metal, and an endless pile of beer cans. I've torn them to pieces and built cars from ****. This car however warrants a different mindset and attack plan than I'm used to. Previously the decisions were easy.... everything gets the Massengill treatment. Doing things less than 100% wasn't even an option. This time around though I need to employ moderation and learn to say good enough. I've got little kids, a business, and need another "project", like a hole in my head. This car is therapy.

This won't be an overnight build....but will stay (in theory) a running/driving build. I'm gonna need help from you guys on the proper way to say...."ahh, **** it. Good enough."
 
Bring it on.. we love pictures and details of parts, their assembly, etc. Easiest forum on the net to load pictures too... as long as they're not 10MB..
 
Here's some pics of her at the unwilling sellers house and after I got her home.

Ok. Every time I try to upload a pic it says it's too large. How do I fix that?
 
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IMG_20191006_151226784~2.jpg IMG_20191006_151226784~2.jpg
 
Here's the first corner cutting piece of advice I need. The first thing I did was strip the nose off and install new door hinges. I aligned the doors to the quarters, and now I'm welding in Uscartool subframe connectors. Simple as pie. Some corner cutting questions to follow... along with pics(God willing).
 
What do I do with the above pics? Solid car, undercoating, ect. Remove undercoating? Strip to bare metal?

My Northeast rust mentality tells me to go apeshit crazy and strip everything, and go nuts fixing a nonexistsant problem.

Will rust encapsulator do? I really don't want to strip this to bare metal.

What would you do giving a "good enough" spin on it?
 
If it is solid and factory undercoated then why Do Anything?

How is rust encapsulator going to benefit the car when you said the car is cancer free/rust free?

Your Belvedere looks like a great car to own.
 
I feel for you. I grew up near Pittsburgh Pa.That word "RUST" is still embedded in my mind.
That is truly a clean looking car. My friend that has a big body shop in Pa picked up a 64 Dodge wagon survivor.Like you he had a very hard time not tearing it apart and making it perfect.But then he wouldn't drive it and end up selling it.Yes it has it's flaws but is what it is ,a driver. That was 3 years ago and he is having fun with it instead of looking at at perfect car siting in the garage.
My 65 Hemi car sits most of the time. My 63 Belvedere roach rod,crusty classic,is something that I can park anywhere drive anywhere and I really have fun with. But it's your car,your call. My 2 cents. Thanks for listening.
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I don't understand the subframe connectors?? Why?? You putting in a 500 hp motor?

My dad went crazy on a 30's hotrod. He boxed the frame THAT ALONE was like 8000. Years later, he admitted " I shouldn't have done that" it's been 40 years, and the car is not even close to together

It's your car, make it safe, and fun!
 
What do I do with the above pics? Solid car, undercoating, ect. Remove undercoating? Strip to bare metal?

My Northeast rust mentality tells me to go apeshit crazy and strip everything, and go nuts fixing a nonexistsant problem.

Will rust encapsulator do? I really don't want to strip this to bare metal.

What would you do giving a "good enough" spin on it?
If you find any minor rust while disassembling things, just clean it as best you can (I don't mean grinding and stripping) then coat it with some POR 15, it's your friend. What you are showing of your disassembly looks to need nothing.
 
Nice car, BTW, alot nicer than anything I've ever started lol

I'm seeing slot of good stuff popping up lately, wish I had more time/money/polebarns..... If drive s different one every day!
 
Nice car.I looks great as is.
Is it functional?
Is it dependable?
Is it safe?
Is it comfortable?
These are the questions I ask myself when building a driver.
Never make one thing to nice, it will.make you start tearing everything apart. Just try to keep it simple.
 
I don't understand the subframe connectors?? Why?? You putting in a 500 hp motor?

My dad went crazy on a 30's hotrod. He boxed the frame THAT ALONE was like 8000. Years later, he admitted " I shouldn't have done that" it's been 40 years, and the car is not even close to together

It's your car, make it safe, and fun!

Yes, it will have more than 500hp. Truthfully though I consider subframe connectors mandatory on anything I'm building. Having driven many cars before and after, the difference is amazing. I never realized how much these old cars flexed, squeeked, ect. In many instances handling even improved without any other changes.
 
Yes, it will have more than 500hp. Truthfully though I consider subframe connectors mandatory on anything I'm building. Having driven many cars before and after, the difference is amazing. I never realized how much these old cars flexed, squeeked, ect. In many instances handling even improved without any other changes.
Dang, then subframe connectors probably a good idea
 
Although I'm not a numbers/restoration guy, I admire the work that you guys do. This is certainly not a museum piece, but it is clean and original. If the following helps you, or you just find it interesting... great. A few pics to follow. Glove box card, 2 build sheets, fender tag, and some factory extras. 5-5-10 written on the trans tunnel in black marker, and a napkin with CC1 written on it from the bottom of the right rear wheel well.
 
Here we go again. Images too big. Can someone please explain to me how to make me more FBBO friendly. It's not like I'm taking videos of stuff.
 
Well at least most of it loaded up. I hope this helps you OEM guys.
 
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