RB Valve cover studs

71_Duster

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Fighting leaking valve cover gaskets on my 440 with Edelbrock RPM heads. I have a solid flat tappet so need to remove them for periodic checks/adjustments and want to try a set of studs instead of bolts.

Does anyone know which ARP kit was the best fit for length etc? I have a set of stamped steel 440 source valve covers currently painted engine colour but the gaskets don't fit in them without trimming so not sure if I will keep them. Both the Moroso blue rubber ones and the Felpro permadry gaskets have leaked.
 

Aron Gleason

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Arp 200- 7610 are a perfect length. Or you can go to the hardware store and find some 1/4 20 studs that are 2 inches long
 

33 IMP

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I used 1/4-20 set screws, I think 1 1/2" long, with painted moroso covers. Made some load spreaders. The set screws and nuts will be about a quarter, or less, than the arp kit, and the setscrews are grade eight.

20210214_134831.jpg
 

451Mopar

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Fighting leaking valve cover gaskets on my 440 with Edelbrock RPM heads. I have a solid flat tappet so need to remove them for periodic checks/adjustments and want to try a set of studs instead of bolts.

Does anyone know which ARP kit was the best fit for length etc? I have a set of stamped steel 440 source valve covers currently painted engine colour but the gaskets don't fit in them without trimming so not sure if I will keep them. Both the Moroso blue rubber ones and the Felpro permadry gaskets have leaked.

Most of the aluminum heads, the valve cover gasket needs to be trimmed around the outer rocker shaft pedestals to keep the gasket inside the lip of the valve cover.
I think the RPM heads, the valve cover bolt holes are at a slight angle? With the thicker aluminum valve covers the bolt holes needed to be enlarged in the valve cover?
Blue loctite the stud to the head so they stay in the head when removing the nuts.
 

Wietse

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When using MP alu valve cover beware the lower middle ones might not work with studs.
I used the ARP studs but was unable to install the nuts on the 2 on the exhaust side as they got too close to the cover to get the nut started.
For valve cover gaskets I recommend the cork Felpro ones, apply a light coat of permatex on the valve cover side and keep the head face lightly oiled, the next time you pull it the gasket comes with the cover without ripping apart.
And those Felpro's i had reused several times and have never seen a leak coming from them, just don't tighten too much when new.
 

1967coronet

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For what its worth, with a stamped steel valve cover I have allways used a plain cork gasket.
Sealed to the cover with a thin layer of regular old napa gasket sealer or a little 3m weather strip adhesive.
Let set over night then install on the head. If the covers are going on and off a little thin smear of grease on the head rail will keep them from sticking. Just snug them down dont overnighter.
Edit.....
I should have read wietse post ^^^^ above, lol,
Anyhow it works.
 

Aron Gleason

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When using MP alu valve cover beware the lower middle ones might not work with studs.
I used the ARP studs but was unable to install the nuts on the 2 on the exhaust side as they got too close to the cover to get the nut started.
For valve cover gaskets I recommend the cork Felpro ones, apply a light coat of permatex on the valve cover side and keep the head face lightly oiled, the next time you pull it the gasket comes with the cover without ripping apart.
And those Felpro's i had reused several times and have never seen a leak coming from them, just don't tighten too much when new.
I had that problem too, but I just took a deep socket over the stud and bent it out slightly. And that worked.
 

71_Duster

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Thanks for all the reply's. I'll see what I can find either set screws or the ARP kit.

I had the blue rubber moroso ones under the aftermarket stamped steel covers and the drivers side always leaked a litle. I bought the felpro permadry ones and put them on this weekend. I drove out to a car show about a 30min highway drive and now they both leak badly.

I figured with the on and off the studs would be a nice touch plus it would help locate things. Going to try again with the felpro's then maybe try old school cork.
 

33 IMP

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I had that problem too, but I just took a deep socket over the stud and bent it out slightly. And that worked.
Those studs must be grade two soft metal. I guarantee your not gonna bend a grade eight set screw.
Some Mopar guys don't realize the stock iron big block heads have the valve cover bolt holes at a non-perpendicular angle, while aftermarket aluminum heads are. The fabled covers that use a long bolt, almost can't be used on a stock iron head.
Thanks for all the reply's. I'll see what I can find either set screws or the ARP kit.

I had the blue rubber moroso ones under the aftermarket stamped steel covers and the drivers side always leaked a litle. I bought the felpro permadry ones and put them on this weekend. I drove out to a car show about a 30min highway drive and now they both leak badly.

I figured with the on and off the studs would be a nice touch plus it would help locate things. Going to try again with the felpro's then maybe try old school cork.
If you have iron factory heads, look carefully at the gasket surface with a straightedge, looking for dips or valleys.
I'm assuming you made sure the covers are flat and unwarped,
and not over-tightened at some point.
Also, load spreaders really help too.
 

Wietse

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If you have so many leaks I suspect you should check the flange straightness of the valve covers.
Those studs must be grade two soft metal. I guarantee your not gonna bend a grade eight set screw.
I was thinking the same, the ARP studs are not going to bend, it will break a piece out of the head if attempting that.
Those ARP fasteners are like 80,000,000 psi tensile strength. :lol:
 

71_Duster

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Edelbrock RPM heads. The valve covers where brand new out of the box from 440 source but I'll check anyways and I do plan to add some spreaders.
 

Aron Gleason

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Those studs must be grade two soft metal. I guarantee your not gonna bend a grade eight set screw.
Some Mopar guys don't realize the stock iron big block heads have the valve cover bolt holes at a non-perpendicular angle, while aftermarket aluminum heads are. The fabled covers that use a long bolt, almost can't be used on a stock iron head.

If you have iron factory heads, look carefully at the gasket surface with a straightedge, looking for dips or valleys.
I'm assuming you made sure the covers are flat and unwarped,
and not over-tightened at some point.
Also, load spreaders really help too.
I bought the arp valve cover studs
 
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