Re-Rebuilding the 440-493 in a 1970 Charger

Mopar Hunter

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Kern,
[1] I am absolutely amazed I am the only one pointing out this problem, failing to get it correct could result in near instant...& expensive....engine failure.
Go back to the pics in post #400. You can clearly see the machined chamfer {or bevel } [ it is not cast or forged that way ] in the rod & cap on the right side of the pic; [ the rod on the left side has been turned over & you cannot see the chamfer ]; the chamfer is adjacent to where the brg shell sits. Stock rods also have the chamfer. Have a Look!! [ If anybody with better skills than me could re-post the pic with a red arrow pointing to the chamfer, that would be great ].
That chamfered side has to go up against the crank cheek; it ensures no interference/contact with the fillet on the crank journal.
[2] You do NOT need narrower brgs with your crank, nor do you need to modify them other than checking the tangs as I mentioned earlier. You would lose precious brg area with narrow brgs & gain nothing.
There was an episode on Engine Masters that talked about this, good infor.
 

Geoff 2

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I built a 440 last year using H beam rods, forget the brand now. The indents for the brg tangs were not wide enough or deep enough & prevented the brg shells from fully seating.
It is not something you would expect, such a small detail, but you just have to check everything.
 

4406bbl

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Also remember the bearing tang and groove only locate the bearing for assembly, many engines do not have bearing tangs, you can make them wider and deeper with no worries.
 

dvw

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Did you maybe make a mistake here?
The intake valve notches in the pistons look to me like the following:
Cylinders 1 and 5 face the rear, 3 and 7 face the front. #s 2 and 6 face rearward, 4 and 8 face forward.
Are we saying the same thing but using different words?
Yes brain dead. The post has been edited. You won't know if you need narrowed bearings unless the bearing shell is placed in the cap. The picture shown illustrates how a HD (narrowed) bearing follows the chamfer. Hold the cap/bearing against the crank chamfer snug. Does the shell clear the crank radius? If it does, your good. If not, it needs to be addressed. Your previous bearings were the narrowed type.
Doug

20220210_120304.jpg
 
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Kern Dog

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FBBO member C D R suggested that I look at the main bearings to see if the same condition existed as with the rod bearings.
The thrust bearing looked fine. Plenty of clearance there.
985E9C03-4B6F-4C5A-B4C1-F8814EFC6CC9.jpeg
0AEFA587-9F0C-4308-9FC7-21ECC9313670.jpeg


Not a chance of contact at the edges.
Now #5 bearing:
A5325D29-A454-4288-9BAB-FA9AB1256746.jpeg
D93DA003-853E-44D8-9E42-DA740A7EEF0B.jpeg


Seems that I am in the clear. Good to know. (Thanks, Charlie)
 

Kern Dog

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The billet rear main seal retainer I have was a new idea when I heard about it in 2004. It uses cut down “ O” rings on the sides. Today this style seems to be quite common.

6E97434C-94C5-4083-AD15-F400F6B4C46F.jpeg

This might explain some oil loss at the back of the engine.
2F74612C-752C-40D8-ACEF-86CE88148AD5.jpeg


The O- rings must have shrunk a bit over time.

1EED3969-05CB-415E-93AE-20B064F7A708.jpeg

They were stiff too.
I looked through a box of O rings I had in the shed…

0E3D4AD1-5B36-4109-BB47-42FA02D2483A.jpeg
3CD7D546-6F7F-4639-BB73-888E1CEE0B6A.jpeg


I measured a few to find one that was slightly larger than the groove in the retainer.



05FF1927-348A-4C6C-94FC-E1BC942D4575.jpeg


Mine had holes in the end to stick the ends of the O rings in.


2A377743-5075-441C-9592-FE17AAAEA5AF.jpeg

It is a bit of an interference fit to press the retainer down in place. Don't forget the lower half of the oil seal!


CA9C6E23-2933-4CC5-BA57-E108F6F1EEBD.jpeg


Cut the ends flush with the retainer....


08311904-64C8-4070-B80B-91AD94B8A641.jpeg

Bada-Bing. Done.
Still waiting on the rod bearings.
 
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cdr

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Hey Kern, just out of curiosity, what is the part # of the main bearings you used ?

did I use proper punctuation ?? LOL :)
 

Kern Dog

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Ha ha.
I’m trying hard to overlook errors, man…I really am.
Here is the box that the main bearings came in.
CF771BC0-ECE1-4EA2-8A1B-C2B84FB54396.jpeg
 

Kern Dog

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I was expecting to get the rod bearings today but they were delayed another day. It seems that delays are the theme of this build. I know, others have dealt with the same as me....It's just that I like to finish what I start in a timely manner and usually, it is not ME that holds up progress.
Once they are here, I can actually run straight through....Install the pistons and rods, install the cam and timing chain, button up the bottom end with the timing cover and oil pan too. The heads, rocker shafts and arms, lifters, valley pan and water pump assembly can follow. All sorts of things can be done but for now, they are all held up.
Tomorrow is already spoken for with other commitments.
 
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RemCharger

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Just thought I'd mention, the talk about rod bearing upper/lowers.. the reason is due to the Dowel hole, which more for aluminum rods.
So the upper and lower designation are somewhat redundant, because the Dowel is at the bottom.
 

Kern Dog

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I'm guessing the hole is a place to retain oil for better lubrication?
 

RemCharger

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No, a dowel pin holds the bearing in place. Along with the tangs.
 

Kern Dog

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There is no dowel pin in these rods.
Sorry man, that makes no sense to me. I've never seen a dowel pin on a rod or rod cap.

R 497.JPG
 

cdr

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Just thought I'd mention, the talk about rod bearing upper/lowers.. the reason is due to the Dowel hole, which more for aluminum rods.
So the upper and lower designation are somewhat redundant, because the Dowel is at the bottom.
no, if you install them wrong they can hang over the chamfer in some brands of rods
 
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