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rear suspension

ksurfer2

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So the build of my 69 RR continues. I am trying to put together a car that looks as close to stock as possible, but runs like a bat out of hell! So far, I have addressed the front suspension, breaks, steering, and the motor has been built. Motor is a 493 stroker. I am still running stock HP manifolds, with aluminum edelbrock heads (painted engine color to look stock), also running stock appearing 3X2 intake/carbs. I've got all the power I need and so far I everything is coming together as planned. The two significant things left are to do frame connectors, and rear leafs/shocks. There is a Dana 60 with 4.10's in it now and an auto trans with a 3000rpm stall. What type of rear spring/shock set up should I consider? Are caltrac's worth it? This is primarily a street driven car, with occasional trips to the strip planned. Additionally, which should be addressed first, the frame connectors, or the rear suspension?
 
I have no plans to tub or move any spring or shock mounting locations from stock.
 
I see no reason for you to spend $1000 for the Cal Trac setup for only occasional strip use.
The cal tracs are great if you are a serious racer but I think you would be better served with just a set of super stock springs and a good pair of street type shocks.
 
at your "assumed" power levels
maybe 500-550hp & 500-570-ish tq
give or take 50 either way
them HP Iron manifolds (unless seriously professionally ported)
it will or could kill a lot of available power
(probably like 70+ hp & 60+ ftlbs of TQ)

I'd say;
buy some good shocks, front & rear
& a sway bar (or more pricey anti roll) would also help
stock OE hd leaf springs, if they are decent shape,
they will work marginally OK
you need to be able to transfer the weight,
front lift to put weight on the rear
have the rear stay stable & keep both tires planted, straight
not twist or torque to one side or other

spinning the tires is an ET killer, make it 60 ft, best as possible
it will make the overall et better

the proper gear ratio for your build
(4.10:1 should 'be ok' depending on tire diameter & traction),
& you need some good sticky tires drag radials or slicks,
will also help/do wonders too

good luck
 
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My car is a street/strip car that's very low buck and that's because most of my life I never had much money. In fact my car is mostly street as I only make the track once or twice a year. But my 63 is not tubbed and the springs are all in the stock location. I figured why waste my money tubbing it or moving the springs in when the 30 x 9 radial slicks I run on the street and track fit fine in the stock wheelwell and it hooks great on them. And all I use is Super Stock springs and the longer MP shocks just like I used in the 70's. I don't set the world on fire but it will run 10's through the full exh on 92 pump with my mild 493. My best 60 is a 1.50 and I know with Cal Tracs it would 60 better but on my budget its not worth me spending $1000 big ones to go a tenth or two faster at the most. Ron

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Nothing trick here. Just simple , cheap and basic. But it fits my budget fine. Oh I do have frame connectors and a 6 point rollbar. Ron

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My car is a street/strip car that's very low buck and that's because most of my life I never had much money. In fact my car is mostly street as I only make the track once or twice a year. But my 63 is not tubbed and the springs are all in the stock location. I figured why waste my money tubbing it or moving the springs in when the 30 x 9 radial slicks I run on the street and track fit fine in the stock wheelwell and it hooks great on them. And all I use is Super Stock springs and the longer MP shocks just like I used in the 70's. I don't set the world on fire but it will run 10's through the full exh on 92 pump with my mild 493. My best 60 is a 1.50 and I know with Cal Tracs it would 60 better but on my budget its not worth me spending $1000 big ones to go a tenth or two faster at the most. Ron

View attachment 726836

Thanks....that was very helpful. I think I have a plan in mind now.
 
I spent time thinking about this same problem. Decided on putting my Caltracs in the Coronet drag car now... then the plan is to use super stock springs in my Satellite cruiser. It will remain a street car.

You may consider 6cyl front torsion bars with the SS Springs as well to help weight transfer. Maybe pinion snubber when racing..??
 
I spent time thinking about this same problem. Decided on putting my Caltracs in the Coronet drag car now... then the plan is to use super stock springs in my Satellite cruiser. It will remain a street car.

You may consider 6cyl front torsion bars with the SS Springs as well to help weight transfer. Maybe pinion snubber when racing..??


I can say with the SS springs on my car a pinion snubber did not help any so I left it off since it ran the same and 60 ft the same without the snubber. I also still use my stock 383 torsion bars which my car was an original 383 car. I agree 6 cyl bars will help weight transfer better but I don't know if it will handle just as good on them. But maybe someone who has used 6 cyl torsion bars on the street will chime in as let us know how their car drives with them on the street. Good luck with your car and hope I helped a little. Ron
 
I can say with the SS springs on my car a pinion snubber did not help any so I left it off since it ran the same and 60 ft the same without the snubber. I also still use my stock 383 torsion bars which my car was an original 383 car. I agree 6 cyl bars will help weight transfer better but I don't know if it will handle just as good on them. But maybe someone who has used 6 cyl torsion bars on the street will chime in as let us know how their car drives with them on the street. Good luck with your car and hope I helped a little. Ron

My Satellite has 318 torsion bars, and I won’t replace. Good to know, I probably won’t bother with a pinion snubber either.
 
My Satellite came with the ESPO's which worked pretty well both street & strip with 500" motor 727 w/10" Turbo Action 3500ish. The ESPO's seemed like they needed one more passenger leaf, KYB shocks, 4.10 Dana, moved springs & tubbed, roll bar, frame connectors. BTW, adjustable rear shocks & tinkering with clamps could help at the track.
 
My car is a very streetable street / strip car. I am getting more serious about bracket racing though, so when I needed new rear suspension a few years back, I went straight to the full Calvert setup. The really nice thing about it is you can go from full race suspension, to a nice soft street feel in about 5 minutes with a few simple adjustments. It may be more than I really need, but I’ve never regretted the purchase, I can tell you that.
 
After looking at the cost of a full CalTracks setup, and not having to "keep" leaf springs for any reason, I am going to get the Gerst or RMS triangulated rear suspension system.
I'm leaving the old tech behind, despite how well some of you have done with variations of it.
At appx $1850-$2k it's about 25-30% more than the full boat CalTracks setup.
The triangulated setup is more in line with my "retromod" direction I'm moving in.
 
I like it, but I "think" a weld in would be exponentially more effective than bolt in.
What has your experience been?
 
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