• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Recommendations for stiffing unibody

Orange71SE

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:38 PM
Joined
Feb 11, 2016
Messages
117
Reaction score
46
Location
Phoenix, AZ
10DBEB9E-382A-4A48-B441-3F7C71A8E043.jpeg
So I just recently fired up my newly built 440 in my 1971 charger. It’s a .30 block with aluminum heads and a decent cam, headers, intake. I plan on building a 727 with a nice shift kit and a 3000 stall converter. Also running a good set of radials in the rear. What do you guys recommend for subframe connectors and other methods of making this body overall stiffer. I don’t exactly want to run a roll bar/cage yet.
 
I purchased a set of frame connectors from mancini's years ago. Welded in and made a huge difference. You could even fabricate with box steel and flat stock.
The type that contour to the floor require carpet and undercoat removal along with good welding skills. They look better but I didn't care about that.
I also went with larger torsion bars, boxed lca's, HD rear springs, and large front and rear sway bars. Handles like a modern car and overall feels very stiff. Car stays flat in turns. Mine is a small block and I run on 18" wheels and tires though. I
 
built my own from 2x3 mild steel. go over to racer hangout and 62-65 and you will see a lot of what everyone has done. if you need any help pm me
 
Old school 2x3 running through the floor & welded gives the most strong IMHO. Other methods may work pretty good also.
 
I have frame connectors in my 63 and I also added a 6 point rollbar which I had to when it went in the 10's. But I feel the rollbar stiffened my car the most as its welded over the frame in the front and back and welded to the rocker panels on the center bar. It really helped stiffen the car more then the frame connectors. Ron

412924390.jpg
 
Ron, I sure agree the roll bar adds more stiffness. My '65 Coronet we did the roll bar & frame connectors at the same time. It was a dedicated drag car. Very stiff. If ya don't want the roll bar, lots of ways to skin the cat on frame connectors. Not the premium, but better than nothing.
 
Another vote for us car tool . If you have the time, skills and tools you could make the stuff yourself.
 
At the point that you put in j bars do we need to remove inner fenderwheel fender. Then weld the brackets for the shocks to the j bar. Then replace inner wheel fender with just flat gauge or aluminum panels.
 
What about the core support does it need a bracket welded to it.
 
I have always called the "J" bars, "snout bars" in the engine bay. I have them on my car tieing into the cage. All the undercar bars and frame connectors are round tube also tieing into the cage. The last 2 are about the best I have of underneath.

20150825_212335.jpg IMG9505711.jpg 100_1711.jpg 100_1715.jpg
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top