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19bee70

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Readers,
I've been reading off and on for a long time now. I have had a 70 Bee in my garage for 20 years, disassembled and a sitting shell, waiting for me to do the rust repair. I'm nearly done with the sheetmetal work now (thanks to retirement!) and I have a couple of questions regarding engine builds.
1) I don't necessarily want to say it's a budget build but in lieu of my choices with the $2500 cap....is my money better spent on a stroker kit and 906 heads or TrickFlo heads and stock stroke with a .030 overbore? It's a 440 block.
2) Tied to question 1....what are the realistic limits for a street car in this configuration WITHOUT having to upgrade from the stock 833 trans (original 383 car) and 8.75 rear? I don't want to get too high on the torque and horsepower end to have to switch these components out.
 

pnora

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2,500.00 Is this your budget for the complete engine rebuild?
 

RemCharger

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2500 will barely get the heads, or, the stroker kit.
Let alone a complete engine build.
 

Gus chiggins

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Readers,
I've been reading off and on for a long time now. I have had a 70 Bee in my garage for 20 years, disassembled and a sitting shell, waiting for me to do the rust repair. I'm nearly done with the sheetmetal work now (thanks to retirement!) and I have a couple of questions regarding engine builds.
1) I don't necessarily want to say it's a budget build but in lieu of my choices with the $2500 cap....is my money better spent on a stroker kit and 906 heads or TrickFlo heads and stock stroke with a .030 overbore? It's a 440 block.
2) Tied to question 1....what are the realistic limits for a street car in this configuration WITHOUT having to upgrade from the stock 833 trans (original 383 car) and 8.75 rear? I don't want to get too high on the torque and horsepower end to have to switch these components out.
$2,500.00 will not get you very far in an engine build.
 

R413

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Well realistically Chrysler never put a 23 spline and 8 3/4 behind a 440. They did build a 1964/65 426 street wedge and a 4 speed with 23 spline and 8 3/4 and they must have learned from that mistake. So the stroker kit takes the current drivetrain out of the question.

Always a compromise somewhere in the car when you want to upgrade in one area and not another. If you run radial TA tires then you won’t have to worry about hurting the drivetrain because you won’t have much traction to speak of.
 

19bee70

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My bad....I guess I could have been alot clearer! Take 2.....I expect my engine build to run a few $K. My intent was to decide between either the AL heads OR a stroker kit. I know I'm roughly in the same ball park for either one. ( $$) Source stroke kit OR Trick FLOW heads) I just DIDN"T want to spend 5K between both of them and not be able to finish the engine. Now R413 makes his point about too much HP and the 23sp 833 and 8.75 rear will come apart. That introduces alot more $$ for upgrading that department. Does it sound like I shouldn't even bother with the 440 because the trans and rear can't take it? I do have the 383 to use if needed. I was shooting for 500 HP.
 

RemCharger

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The Trans won't instantly explode.
I'll go waay out on a limb and say you aren't bracket racing it
 

69L48Z27

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Do the stroker with 906 now and you can easily update heads down the road. Keep slicks off of it and it’ll be fine.
 

19bee70

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I know I have to do the usual head prep at the machine shop. Any custom touches I should do? BTW,...I haven't decided on a cam. COMP, LUNATI, MOPAR Perf, or another? I don't really care if it's a hyd flat, solid flat, or hyd roller as long as I stay with stock config with regard to rockers and shaft alignments. I might have to go with roller rockers...but so be it. I like the lumpy sound at my car is getting the 4 wheel disc conversion but I don't know about a booster or not and that plays into the vacumn concerns.
 

pnora

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I would run a pretty much stock short block rebuild, Then get a pair of 440 source heads along with bolts. Decent cam 500 lift tops. Headers, Intake. That still will most likely set you back 6 to 8 grand.
 

Slap Stick

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Does the engine need to be bored out or is this something you want? If it's something you want but are on a pay as you go type budget, I would leave the bore as is. Wait until a bore is needed.
Now, that leaves cam, intake/carb and heads. Intake/carb and heads are the easiest. Dont know how much the heads would help without a cam change. Depending on the carb and intake you have, a change there could hurt performance.
Myself, the last thing I would do is increase bore if I dont have to. That said I would do the cam/lifters first. That way you are ready to slap a new top end on it real quick and easy. Then when the rings/bore are worn you can fix that and then if I could get away with only ten over that's what would happen. My idea is to make the block last as long as possible.
Everything is a compromise until the whole thing is done.
Lots of ways to skin this cat.
 

dvw

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On the street the 23 spline and 8 3/4 should live a long happy life. I've beat them unmercifully in more than a few cars. They hold up pretty well. Even put 100 or so passes on that combo with slicks leaving at 5000 rpm (12.50@110/3750lbs). All those parts are all still in use. Personally I'd opt for the better heads. The stock cranks do pretty well. However if you are buying pistons and rods anyway. The crank isn't a ton more. Super low budget? Stock crank, rods, OE pistons? I'd still go for the heads cam and intake. How does the motor run currently (or how did it run)?
Doug
 

Larrry B.

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Double or triple your budget and you can probably get there and add more later. Find a good shop to completely machine the block, check the rods and crank which can all be reused if they pass. A good set of pistons once you decide on heads. Stock will give you everything you'll want or need unless you plan on racing. You can always do tried and true upgrades (carb, intake, heads, exhaust, ignition, cam) once the car is running without pouring money in all at once on things you may not necessarily need. More power may(will) require further upgrades on other aspects of the car.
 

19bee70

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For what you posted, that 23-spline a-833 & the 8 3/4 rear will suffice.
I see what the concerns could be. Too much torque with solid hookup leads to broken parts in my combination. Is there such a thing as a "favorite" combo of 440 Source stroke and head kits that will do the 500 HP/TQ
 

19bee70

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For what you posted, that 23-spline a-833 & the 8 3/4 rear will suffice.
.....and who's cam kit would be fitting for a b-Body with 3.91 AND run on pump premium? Yes, I know if I call them, they could give me their recommendations but it would be nice to hear what the streetwise would say.
 

Dako

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IMO if you will be using this as a local cruiser (cars & coffee, ice cream, local shows, etc.) a mostly stock big block, backed with a stick and 3.91 gears is going to be PLENTY-O-FUN. I have met more than a few enthusiasts who have 'built' their cars, only to find out a few years later that they want to tame them down to be more 'user friendly' for the majority of the times they take it out. Use the money elsewhere...door/ window seals, carpet, headliner, A/C(!). You'll enjoy it more the longer you have it.

Cheers
 

19bee70

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I am so appreciative of the responses! It's kinda funny that after reading hundreds of streams on various topics, I seem to have left out important info, yet again! Many of you have the best answers available based on my limited input! All is good and I'll elaborate a little further..... :)
I have a 74 and 75 440 block with a stock crank and stock bore----that's it. Gonna need almost the entire assembly. Balancing preferred. Boring was just a path to more cubes but I guess if I stroke with stock bore, I can get some cubesthere as well.
EVERYTHING else is needed from ignition to exhaust. It never had a running engine in it.
I COULD spend 10K but I'd RATHER try to make a 500HP package without spending that much (5K on heads and stroke kit- maybe one or the other) given I have to buy all the misc. engine parts too.
What cam is an easy plug-n-play with the weight, trans, gear, in ind? Again, without going over the top.....a Comp Cam? A Hughes? A Lunati? A Mopar Performance purple or solid lift cam?
 

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