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Recore or replace?

Woodwiz

Woodwiz

Active Member
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Location
Arizona
I see this being chatted up here and just wanted to throw out a couple of questions to everyone. I have a stock 383 in my 70rr that has been running quite hot. By the dash gauge it moves up quick to 200-230*,but I hear that those factory gauges can be off by 30 degrees or so. I have a 160* thermostat and when I run here in Arizona she gets very hot. The other day got back from a ride out to my buddies shop and it was about 80* outside and was 45mph moving traffic and the dash gauge went to to max.260*. When I got back the over flow tank (plastic) was boiling like a pan on the stove. Kinda scary!!
Went to pull the factory 22” out and noticed draining out the coolant that it seemed I never really got the 14.5 quarts + the engine blocks worth of coolant.
My buddy suggested that this old copper/brass factory radiator is done or plugged and to make the leap to a 2row aluminum unit and cooling problem solved. I’d like to keep a factory radiator in it cause that’s what came in it. Worked for 53 years why not another 53? The question to anyone is: Is it worth it to recore this original and maybe get it dipped and rodded or get a replacement factory or go aftermarket aluminum?
Sorry for the longgg speech!
Thanks!!

image.jpg
 
Where might he be located. I’m in Arizona.
 
Glen Ray is in Wisconsin. Well worth the freight there and back. Quick work and good value for the money. One of the few vendors that sends you the pieces back with a bill instead of making you pay upfront. At least that was my experience.
 
MCODECUDA said:
Contact GlenRay Radiator’s.
Click to expand...

If you want to get a new factory spec replacement there is no alternative.
He can also recore your original radiator which of course makes the most sense in your case.

My 69 charger had an older aftermarket radiator in it that needed to be replaced.
I bought a brand new one from glenray and it looks and works great. I would not consider anything else if you have the money.

But i guess there will be other people able to recore your radiator if you absolutely have/want to go local.

Also i personally would not install an aftermarket radiator in a stock car.
If you're building a hotrod or being short on cash its another story of course.
 
Last edited:
People around the world have been recoring rads for 100 years. Glen Ray is not the only place left
 
When I got my 66 Charger/ w 383 back in 2010, one of the first things I did was to flush out the engine block, pulled the radiator, took it to a reputable radiator shop and had it boiled out, they re-painted parts of it as well after the boiling process. Re-installed it and and installed a FlowKooler water pump. Running a 180 thermostat, temp runs right at 180 and even on hottest days here in PA never overheats. For what it's worth, in my opinion the Flow Cooler pump makes a big difference. Good luck with it..
 
Woodwiz said:
I see this being chatted up here and just wanted to throw out a couple of questions to everyone. I have a stock 383 in my 70rr that has been running quite hot. By the dash gauge it moves up quick to 200-230*,but I hear that those factory gauges can be off by 30 degrees or so. I have a 160* thermostat and when I run here in Arizona she gets very hot. The other day got back from a ride out to my buddies shop and it was about 80* outside and was 45mph moving traffic and the dash gauge went to to max.260*. When I got back the over flow tank (plastic) was boiling like a pan on the stove. Kinda scary!!
Went to pull the factory 22” out and noticed draining out the coolant that it seemed I never really got the 14.5 quarts + the engine blocks worth of coolant.
My buddy suggested that this old copper/brass factory radiator is done or plugged and to make the leap to a 2row aluminum unit and cooling problem solved. I’d like to keep a factory radiator in it cause that’s what came in it. Worked for 53 years why not another 53? The question to anyone is: Is it worth it to recore this original and maybe get it dipped and rodded or get a replacement factory or go aftermarket aluminum?
Sorry for the longgg speech!
Thanks!!

View attachment 1453149
Click to expand...
You should be able to find a competent shop somewhere in Arizona, no? I'm sure there are some shops that can handle classic mopar rads.
 
Glen/Ray all the way. Had a 63 Belvedere heater core done by them, they are artists. If you don't care about originality the Ebay Champion radiators are hard to beat.
 
lay your radiator on the ground with the inlet/outlet facing up. Run scalding hot water through it with a hose until it comes out and let it sit for 20 minutes. Turn the radiator up as it normally sits and take note of how long it takes to drain out completely. It should drain very fast if it isn’t clogged up. If it drains slowly, stick the hose in again with scalding hot water and run it through the bottom to the top and top to the bottom for a good while. Maybe a half hour switching back and forth and then try the test again to see how quick it drains. If you notice good progress, keep at it, it may not need recored. I was able to solve my overheating problem just by doing this and saved a lot of money. I also back flushed the heating core as well. It was clogged too. Amazing how much dirt and debris will come out in time with hot water. I have a stock 22” radiator on a charger with a 383 and it runs at 180 all day in 90 degree dog day weather After doing this.
 
Yup, recore
I had my Superbee and the AMC SC/Scrambler re-cored.

But:
Something Startles me in this whole scenario!
You said:
"I have a stock 383 in my 70rr that has been running quite hot. By the dash gauge it moves up quick to 200-230*,but I hear that those factory gauges can be off by 30 degrees or so. I have a 160* thermostat and when I run here in Arizona she gets very hot."

200-210 is not overheating.
Too many guys think their car has to run at 165 and this is a myth.
Engines run better warmer than 160.
Auto Engineers will tell you what it should run at.
Many cars of the 60s and 70s are designed to run 205-210

So, do you have a Fan shroud?
That will help but go to a GOOD Radiator shop...someone whose been in the business for years, hard to find a good one.
Get it recored, heavy duty style
Remember Copper is pricey, but you will have kept your original radiator and it will be A-OK.
 
I'm fortunate here in the Mojave deseret
A guy in Lancaster CA (55 miles from my home) whose been in the biz for 60 years!
Latino fellow
Radiator King
Un-real!
 
Now back to reality. Is your car show quality? Do you drive it daily? You stated you were open to aluminum. Are you going to do a full restoration? Is money a consideration or have it to throw around?
A modern 2 row, with 1.25" rows, aluminum from a reputable company, not ebay or Amazon, will be around $600ish. Were $300ish about 3yrs ago. You can get 2 row 1" rows for $300 still and more than capable of cooling a stock 383/440. Will cool extremely well. Then keep the original for later if you do decide to do a restoration. Then pay the big $$$ for a recore.

I live in Fort Mohave AZ where temps are 120-125° and have no issues w aluminum in my 496" stroker.
 
383 auto, had the original 2 core rad, made into a 3 core about 1992. No shroud, sat in stop and go traffic at KC in 1993 in 100 degree heat absolutely no problems.
Still working fine.
Have done this more than once.
 
70ChargerRT said:
There’s always somebody better, Always!!!
Click to expand...
Here's one of Glenray's on my '63, and I'm quite happy with it.
16820279189745983992563151831486.jpg
16820280192138552172427433885307.jpg

I think a Few of us here will be waiting to see who that will be ? Post them up when you have a chance, Thanks...
 
Woodwiz said:
I see this being chatted up here and just wanted to throw out a couple of questions to everyone. I have a stock 383 in my 70rr that has been running quite hot. By the dash gauge it moves up quick to 200-230*,but I hear that those factory gauges can be off by 30 degrees or so. I have a 160* thermostat and when I run here in Arizona she gets very hot. The other day got back from a ride out to my buddies shop and it was about 80* outside and was 45mph moving traffic and the dash gauge went to to max.260*. When I got back the over flow tank (plastic) was boiling like a pan on the stove. Kinda scary!!
Went to pull the factory 22” out and noticed draining out the coolant that it seemed I never really got the 14.5 quarts + the engine blocks worth of coolant.
My buddy suggested that this old copper/brass factory radiator is done or plugged and to make the leap to a 2row aluminum unit and cooling problem solved. I’d like to keep a factory radiator in it cause that’s what came in it. Worked for 53 years why not another 53? The question to anyone is: Is it worth it to recore this original and maybe get it dipped and rodded or get a replacement factory or go aftermarket aluminum?
Sorry for the longgg speech!
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Was the radiator full before you drained it?
How long has it been running hot like this for?
a few days
a few weeks
 
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