Relocation of Parking Brake Cables, Raising/moving them for exhaust.

[Evan Frucht]

Has anyone tried to slightly raise, or redo the parking brake cable configuration. I built and installed a dual exhaust system about a month ago, but would like to raise it an inch or so.

The parking brake cables are touching the tops of the exhaust pipes just barely and I'm worried this will cause trouble down the line.... such as heat from pipes causing them to weaken and eventually break, etc..

I would rather lift up the parking brake cables an inch (to get the clearance I want) rather than lower my exhaust... because it's already sort of low (5 1/2 inches from ground, about 2 inches lower than frame rails in center of wheelbase. I haven't been able to drive the car much to test it but, being that low, I'm thinking it may get damaged from going over potholes/bumps/garages and general unsavory road conditions... It may be just high enough to work but Its pushing it.

I wasn't able to go above the parking cables with my design without hitting driveshaft or being to close to floor. And am trying to make this work as is.

My first thought was simply to modify and lift up the cable guides that are welded under the floor pan, but that would (might?) put tension on cable and I'm not sure if it would work as planned.

Anyone tried something like this ?

 

[glorydays]

my cables hit the pipes when I step on the pedal. no issues since 85

 

[Evan Frucht]

my cables hit the pipes when I step on the pedal. no issues since 85

Good to know! I'd still feel better if I could get away with raising them a little

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I've not done that, but here's my thoughts.
1. The heat of the exhaust will not hurt the parking brake cable.
2. The only "problem" I could see is wear on the cable or the exhaust but ONLY if you use the parking brake every time you park.
3. I see no reason why you couldn't raise the cable brackets. Tension would not be a problem since that is adjustable where the single cable from the pedal splits into the two rear brake cables.
4. My cable runs right across a frame connector, but all I've done is put a piece of rubber hose over the cable at that point. You could use a piece of silicone hose (or nothing)

 

[Evan Frucht]

I've not done that, but here's my thoughts.
1. The heat of the exhaust will not hurt the parking brake cable.
2. The only "problem" I could see is wear on the cable or the exhaust but ONLY if you use the parking brake every time you park.
3. I see no reason why you couldn't raise the cable brackets. Tension would not be a problem since that is adjustable where the single cable from the pedal splits into the two rear brake cables.
4. My cable runs right across a frame connector, but all I've done is put a piece of rubber hose over the cable at that point. You could use a piece of silicone hose (or nothing)

Good thoughts, I wasn't worried about it at first but then read (I think on here) that the exhaust pipe heat and constant heating/cooling of the cable (+abrasion was a factor too) caused someone's cable to break. Maybe that person just did something else wrong.

If it's easy to get a picture of that rubber hose and where exactly you put it that might be helpful. I'm just having a little trouble visualizing that fourth statement.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Do you have e-brake on inside of drivers side rear frame rail? I had one on my 65 Dodge mounted a second one on trans crossmember for front cable. You'll need 66 and later e-brake cable on rear brake drums and an cable equalizer. Used a connecting nut and a lock nut to threaded rod to front cable and threaded rod went to equalizer. Threaded needed support near equalizer. Plastic pipe inside fuel line clamp l bracket on frame. After picture was taken equalizer right.

 

[Garys1969RR]

What car? On my 70 Dart, I had to raise the cable housing where it came thru the cross member frame. I had installed frame connectors. It worked out fine.

 

[Fran Blacker]

It's posted under 62 to 65 cars.

 

[Evan Frucht]

It's posted under 62 to 65 cars.

Yes this is for the early style e-brake configuration. It's "Y" shaped. Sorry if that was unclear to anyone.

I think my problem is pretty specific to the earlier layout too. The later style with parallel cables probably wouldn't interfere with the exhaust in most situations since they are spread apart more toward the sides.

Here's a pic I found to help show what I mean.

This person jammed the pipes up above the cables I'm talking about (visible in photos). I kept my pipes under those cables but Its just a tad low for my liking so I want to raise them about 1 inch, but the cables are in the way.... that's what brings me to my current situation of asking this.

I'm running a 2.5 inch exhaust with an "X" Pipe crossover so that's why I wasnt able to get it above the cables. But even if I didn't have that x pipe, and tried to stick the exhaust above the cables they would still rub the cables and be too close too floorpans.

 

[VANDAN]

You can look at images for a Max Wedge exhaust. They added extra cable routing brackets to clear the excess exhaust system. These extra brackets are available, but not cheap either. You could easily fab something similar up, at a fraction of the cost. You can find them on the Kramer Automotive website, and listed under Max Wedge Brake items. Sorry for the fuzzy pics, but those are Factory Original, on a Real '64 Plymouth MW Survivor...

 

[Evan Frucht]

You can look at images for a Max Wedge exhaust. They added extra cable routing brackets to clear the excess exhaust system. These extra brackets are available, but not cheap either. You could easily fab something similar up, at a fraction of the cost. You can find them on the Kramer Automotive website, and listed under Max Wedge Brake items. Sorry for the fuzzy pics, but those are Factory Original, on a Real '64 Plymouth MW Survivor...View attachment 720230 View attachment 720232

Beautiful !

Looks like mopar had to deal with the same exact issue back then

Will fab something up and update this thread as well as my custom exhaust project thread I never finished updating...
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...-in-1964-wagon-at-home.162458/#post-911107052

 

[Fran Blacker]

Yes this is for the early style e-brake configuration. It's "Y" shaped. Sorry if that was unclear to anyone.

I think my problem is pretty specific to the earlier layout too. The later style with parallel cables probably wouldn't interfere with the exhaust in most situations since they are spread apart more toward the sides.

The way I did it works fine. The rear had the later cables. Could definitely be cleaned up.
Kit for later model. Not mine. https://www.ebay.com/itm/66-70-Char...item2ec76cdd7d:g:BpsAAOSwmo5Z1i7-:rk:124:pf:0

 

[matthon]

TTI exhaust, under, then up and over.
Doesn't touch cables.

 

[khryslerkid]

I had the same problem Evan. I used a couple of brake springs to hold them up and off the pipes when they're not in use.

Starting with post #518
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/taking-up-new-residence.114133/page-26

 

[Evan Frucht]

The way I did it works fine. The rear had the later cables. Could definitely be cleaned up.
Kit for later model. Not mine. https://www.ebay.com/itm/66-70-Char...item2ec76cdd7d:g:BpsAAOSwmo5Z1i7-:rk:124:pf:0

So you basically switched over to the later style cables?

 

[Evan Frucht]

TTI exhaust, under, then up and over.
Doesn't touch cables.

View attachment 720260 View attachment 720273

Yep the TTI stuff looks top notch.

I would of went that route but I got excited about making a custom one myself + I'm kind of a cheapo

I decided to tackle this project from scratch. Actually only ended up costing me about $250 in supplies including the mufflers, clamps, hangers, etc. + maybe $50 for all the welding gas/wire I used up.

Used an X pipe kit from speedway motors, and a bunch of random mandrel bends + some straight tubing from the local metal supply warehouse.

Initially my plan was to go up and over like TTI did but the X pipe that I wanted so bad made going above the cables impossible.

 

[Glenwood]

On my 64, the cable touched the top of the pipes so I drilled a hole in the trans bracket above the original hole to change the angle of the pedal cable slightly. This was just enough to lift the cable above the pipes.

 

[matthon]

It looks like the H pipe takes up less area and doesn't go as far back, which probably helps.

 

[Garys1969RR]

Yes this is for the early style e-brake configuration. It's "Y" shaped. Sorry if that was unclear to anyone.

I think my problem is pretty specific to the earlier layout too. The later style with parallel cables probably wouldn't interfere with the exhaust in most situations since they are spread apart more toward the sides.

Here's a pic I found to help show what I mean.

View attachment 720233

This person jammed the pipes up above the cables I'm talking about (visible in photos). I kept my pipes under those cables but Its just a tad low for my liking so I want to raise them about 1 inch, but the cables are in the way.... that's what brings me to my current situation of asking this.

I'm running a 2.5 inch exhaust with an "X" Pipe crossover so that's why I wasnt able to get it above the cables. But even if I didn't have that x pipe, and tried to stick the exhaust above the cables they would still rub the cables and be too close too floorpans.

Looks like it would be better to run the cables ABOVE the pipes. The heat from the pipes isn't going to hurt the cables. Put them above the pipes, and maybe use some springs to hold them up when not in use, as suggested earlier. That's a nice looking ex system!