I have had mine in and out 25 times in my 67 GTX without dropping the steering column. Just be sure to tape the steering column several layers of protective masking tape to avoid scratching. Repair manual does not indicate need to drop steering column, but does recommend the protective taping. Six screws hold it in, three at the top and three at the bottom. You will need to remove the electrical connectors to the light switch (clip on both sides and pulls downward to remove), the wiper switch (two separate connectors and a single wire that pull straight off the back), five pin connector that hooks up the left circuit board (above the wiper switch and pulls straight out of the back), five pin connector that hooks up the right circuit board and pulls straight out of the back (above ignition switch), speedometer cable (unscrews) and red and black connectors to ammeter (disconnect connector nuts).
The connections are all short,and it is tight to remove them. The dash bezel tips out from the top slightly and will get to a place where it will slip right in and out of the dash. That exact place is extremely hard to find, but it is there if the bezel is in the correct position. Once pulled out slightly you can disconnect the back connectors left side, right side and speedo from the front if easier than from the back side.
I can probably do this blindfolded at this point.
Good time to replace all dash bulbs while this is out. When you put it back, things on the bezel may not work until the screws are back in place. They provide part of the grounding. A good idea to pull your battery ground while removing and replacing. That is step one of about everything that involves electrical.
Car will still start and drive with dash bezel out if you bolt the red and black wires connected to the ammeter together tightly and electrical tape the **** out of the connection to prevent it shorting against anything. Iffy to do this as you will have no oil pressure gauge or temp gauge, unless a secondary has been installed under dash. Gas gauge is unnecessary if you keep the tank close to full. This is assuming the ammeter has not been bypassed by a prior owner. Redline Gauges will convert your ammeter to a factory look voltmeter to eliminate the full alternator voltage running through your ammeter for around $200, but they want you to send in the whole dash bezel and you won't get it back for 3-4 weeks. This will get rid of the common fire source in the dash bezel and allow you to bypass both the ammeter and firewall bulkhead connector that has a tendency to melt over time. Those skinny connector pins do not handle 60 amps over time real well. The voltmeter, just needs a minimal power source and a ground. Read the Mad Electric web site on the ammeter bypass if you have not yet done so or same info on Allpar. Or search ammeter bypass on this site. There have been many, many posts about this.
Good luck with the project.