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Removing pipe thread hose fittings

Ron H

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Does anyone have any nifty tricks to remove the heater hose fittings from the intake (cast) and pump? I've done this before some years ago; but this go around is a beeitch. The fittings don't have a hex on them. Heating isn't a nice option as the surfaces are painted. Channel locks no go so far. Was thinking of trying a come-out but what I have are too small as it is. If this is a thing to do could go hunting for bigger ones; though have a feeling they wouldn't work only busting out the thin-wall tube.
Thanks.
 
Ok, had a feeling after posting I might have luck...go figure. I used a block of wood to smack the top of the fitting and using the locks one is coming out. Anyway one down one to go, still would be interested to know any nifty tricks...thanks!
 
Pipe wrench and the heat wrench unfortunately..

Another option I've used before when needing an easy out that big is to just take some square stock and grind flutes into it.. hammer it in good and turn...

beerestoration2015-2016 1025.JPG
beerestoration2015-2016 1026.JPG
 
Pipe wrench and the heat wrench unfortunately..

Another option I've used before when needing an easy out that big is to just take some square stock and grind flutes into it.. hammer it in good and turn...

I agree, heat and a 8" or 10" pipe wrench.
 
Thanks guys - wow the fitting your removing is in tons worse shape then mine but yeah, the intake fitting has been on the manifold probably since factory assembly. It's also in my car. Having replaced the pump and chain a few years ago, that's the fitting that came out nicely, all it need was a few smacks with a wood block and hammer, lucky to say. Remember reusing this one for the new pump. I'm soaking the intake fitting with penetrating oil overnight hoping this might make a difference to work on it tomorrow and have whacked it several times with wood block. Could be I'm pissing in the wind. I've had the heater core bypassed for some years and had plugged these fittings with hose caps though they don't last all that long. As such, was going to plug them with a threaded plug until a buddy suggested T-valves. Like this idea to reconnect the hoses leaving them closed until sometime I tackle heater control valve leak I couldn't solve some years back. Not sure if I will at my age anymore; but this would be (heater hoses) connected up anyway for quick use.
 
That one had been in there since birth.. so 47 years at that point and I was amazed it came out. I didn't care how I heated it..as motor was being blasted and repainted, but heat wrench fired inside the fitting might save the paint and still work!
 
The small Ridgid brand pipe wrench (accept no substitutes :D) in 8" or 10 mentioned above, AND slide a steel rod, allthread, old round shaft of some sort inside to keep it from crushing. Unless it's rusted through, it will come out. Once it distorts, it's putting pressure on two sides, making it more difficult. The factory tool is like the old drag link sockets, a really thick, wide straight screwdriver.
 
If you’re trying to save them, then heating and patience will get it going. If you’ve done several like I have.....just squeeze one end flat at a good angle and get it to move....lube , repeat. No worries if it breaks off. Pretty easy to extract
 
That one had been in there since birth.. so 47 years at that point and I was amazed it came out. I didn't care how I heated it..as motor was being blasted and repainted, but heat wrench fired inside the fitting might save the paint and still work!
When ya say heat wrench fired inside the fitting can you lemme know what this is? Thanks!
 
Lube is your friend in most cases but after trying that for days....easy out will sometimes do the trick. I've even had to use a die grinder before to help get them out then use a magnet to fish out the chips.
 
I have had good luck welding a large bolt into the fitting, leave it standing a little tall and do the weld underneath the hex of the bolt.
But this is also one of those tasks that I don't think the same technique worked more than once. :(
 
Being a sprinkler guy, I have a "baby" pipe wrench that turned out perfect for this - and
brother, mine were a travesty when I went after them on the current 440.
First attempt was vice grips; escalate as needed from there.
 
Gotta say THANKS for the tip! Went to home depot bought a set for 10 bucks. I soaked the fitting for 2 days with PB blaster (other stuff to do so let it sit) and gave it some whacks with a wood block and hammer. Inserted the wrench deep enough around the threaded area while a buddy used a pipe wrench on the OD - presto came out intact. Could reuse the fitting. Reckon when it was inserted in the manifold JFK was still the prez!
 
Gotta say THANKS for the tip! Went to home depot bought a set for 10 bucks. I soaked the fitting for 2 days with PB blaster (other stuff to do so let it sit) and gave it some whacks with a wood block and hammer. Inserted the wrench deep enough around the threaded area while a buddy used a pipe wrench on the OD - presto came out intact. Could reuse the fitting. Reckon when it was inserted in the manifold JFK was still the prez!
Congrats!
Oh, but please - TELL me you didn't re-use the thing! :praying:
 
You need to make sure that any fragments are cleaned out of the water-way also, otherwise they might end up blocking the flow elsewhere.
 
In pipefitter world, those would kindly be referred to as "cute". :)
I can see them being fine as long as the "grippy" part isn't inserted in the nipple to the point it's inside
the cast housing host - where obviously, you want the old, stubborn nipple to "shrink" if anything, not
expand with the tool.
yes they are cute but (so is a 6” rigid pipe wrench) they haven’t failed me yet and I’m somewhat of a pipe fitter myself been running conduit of all types my whole career as an IBEW journeyman electrician.
:thumbsup:
 
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