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Renewing a reproduction battery

turbine68rt

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I have a repro Mopar group 27 battery I bought 12 years ago and it performed great all those years, but now it's starting to crank much slower even after the tender had it fully charged. Are there any links or suggestions out there that describe how to install a replacement battery inside the case or am I better off just buying another new repro?
 
No... Mother Nature did that for me! LOL including the acid draining.

Drain the battery of acid.. then flush the **** out of it with water before you start. Use a dremel (or angle grinder) with a cut wheel to open up the bottom (leaving a perimeter of course) and then start tearing out the plates. It was definitely easier with the case split in half, but I certainly wouldn't do that on purpose.
 
No... Mother Nature did that for me! LOL including the acid draining.

Drain the battery of acid.. then flush the **** out of it with water before you start. Use a dremel (or angle grinder) with a cut wheel to open up the bottom (leaving a perimeter of course) and then start tearing out the plates. It was definitely easier with the case split in half, but I certainly wouldn't do that on purpose.
You're the first I have seen split the case....just seems to much finish work to be honest......

Don't you have to neutralize the acid film thats left?
 
You're the first I have seen split the case....just seems to much finish work to be honest......

Don't you have to neutralize the acid film thats left?
Justin... read again.. you're missing the fact the battery froze and as such it split in half.... so I used it to make my script battery for the Bird. It split in the perfect spot.. right under the battery clamp down bracket and not a single person even noticed it at 'Dega !

I have another 27 series red cap on the shelf I've had for 30 years that is dry charged with no acid. It will be my next candidate when I need another and I'll be sure to do a detailed post when that day comes. Might need it in a RR.... :rolleyes:
 
You neutralize the battery acid with baking soda and water. Flood it with that mixture until it stops reacting. Once that’s done you have no more acid.
 
Pour the acid out in a suitable container then neutralize with baking soda. Then mix baking soda and water in a gallon jug and pour into empty battery until no reaction.
 
12 yr old battery that is still functional. Youneed to contact Ripleys
Just replaced one that was in my garden tractor that was about that old. It surprised me for sure! The ones in my diesel are getting up there too but can't find a date code on them.
 
Pour the acid out in a suitable container then neutralize with baking soda. Then mix baking soda and water in a gallon jug and pour into empty battery until no reaction.
I was thinking that!

Thanks that was the info I was seeking...:thumbsup:
 
Justin... read again.. you're missing the fact the battery froze and as such it split in half.... so I used it to make my script battery for the Bird. It split in the perfect spot.. right under the battery clamp down bracket and not a single person even noticed it at 'Dega !

I have another 27 series red cap on the shelf I've had for 30 years that is dry charged with no acid. It will be my next candidate when I need another and I'll be sure to do a detailed post when that day comes. Might need it in a RR.... :rolleyes:
I see that now......Part of me just scrolling through the pics on my phone.......

I have three original red top batteries and thanks to this thread. It sparked me to embark on doing one.....

Also thanks to @69L48Z27 for the additional info!
 
The Odyssey PC925 fits nicely inside and despite their low listed MCA it actually pulls over 800 CCA for a LONG LONG time without petering off at all. I can crank the Bird and the Bee for ever, nothing you'd do with a lead acid. I use them in airplanes and you can literally taxi down a lake on the battery alone.
 
One other thing to mention is there were two (that I’ve run into) repop batteries out there. One is by Turbo Start and is an real AGM battery. The other, not sure of brand, already has this ‘battery in a battery’ concept built. Separate AGM battery inside the case.

Reason I mention this is because you’ll only have flowing battery acid if you find an original battery that still has juice in it. AGM batteries are flooded mats, meaning the fluid is captured in the mat and does not flow. You’ll still need to neutralize it but no acid will pour out, then you’re ready to gut it. And if you have the one with a battery in a battery, you just need to replace the battery inside.
 
There is an opportunity here for someone to do a quality modification on an old gas mat battery and sell the converted cases for people to add batteries themselves. Do a core charge or exchange and ship back the empty case.
 
Cut my AGM bottom out with a cutoff wheel and ran a socket down the "filler cap openings" to take the bolts out of the old batteries and they fell right out. Now to see if the Odyssey fits.
 
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