Anyone here ever replaced the bulkhead connector on a 64 Sport Fury? I am wondering how much slack in the wiring will be afforded once it is removed from firewall and under dash.
Replacing bulkhead connector
- Thread starter dmoore
- Start date
You should have plenty of slack in it. Are you putting in a new one or going to bypass it thru the bulkhead. After reading all the different post and then finding out it's the bulkhead connector was the problem. I don't trust the bulkhead connector. As stated before if you have done any up grades in the charging system and ignition the d bulk head might not handle it very well. Just my two cents worth
I am installing a new repro from AMS...removing ALL terminals and inserting them into the new block. My 55 year old original has been "burn't" at bottom for a long time. Every once and a while the engine will not turn over because of this...I've had enough of "wiggling" the engine harness connector. Everything is factory stock..no electrical upgrades. The LAST untouched part.
Evan Frucht
Well-Known Member
I recently drilled out mine and ran some 12 gauge wire through all 14 connections. I soldered/spliced all those wires under the dash to that harness. Then I added 14 insulated electrical terminals in engine bay. That cost me nothing and I think it actually works better than the original design.
Or you could buy a new
Block:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1964-P...wall-Harness-Bulkhead-Connectors/143280323385
Terminals:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-pcs-Mop...C-E-Body-Charger-Cuda-Challenger/312804005580
There should be enough slack if you just cut the wire off right at the base of the blocks, right behind the connectors/terminals.
Last edited:
Evan Frucht
Well-Known Member
New metal terminals are only 8 bucks free shipping on ebay. I put link above.
I was planning to replace the bulkhead at first but then ended up deciding I would try the free fix first, Since I had the supplies to bypass it completely
I have a new block. Since I am keeping it completely original I will be replacing at minimum the engine harness terminals. I saw those on Ebay as well. Thanks for posting.
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Once you disengage the clips on the block and move it into the hole, you might be able to pull it back through the hole, holding it corner to corner. Then you can work on it in the engine compartment instead of under the dash.
In a perfect world I would be able to sit in drivers seat and work on it...the ole back ain't what it use to be! Hell, and everything attached to it for that matter!
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On my '62 the heavy hot wire had a metal lug in the bulkhead. (Red arrow). I believe they did away with this in later years. I just disassembled it, gave it and the connectors a good cleaning with a brass wire brush (looks like a small paint brush) and CRC electrical cleaner. Reassembled with CRC dialectic grease.
I bypassed the amp guage just by removing the two wires from it and fastened them together. Stock alternator, no add ons so it's good to go.
Removed and cleaned the fuse block good also.
I bypassed the amp guage just by removing the two wires from it and fastened them together. Stock alternator, no add ons so it's good to go.
Removed and cleaned the fuse block good also.
Well I was able to transfer all but two of the 14 leads into the new bulkhead connector. These are the female connectors inside car. Had to order two female connectors to finish due to them being "disfigured".
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