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Replacing torsion bar crossmember bushings

UKPlymouth

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i have some poly bushes ready to fit. If anyone has done this job and has tips I'd be grateful. I.e. Do I need to jack the car to take weight off the suspension first, or do I just remove and fit regardless?
 
Which bushings? Lower control arm? upper? strut rod? In any event: Yes, you need to unload the suspension of the weight.
 
Which bushings? Lower control arm? upper? strut rod? In any event: Yes, you need to unload the suspension of the weight.

Yeah, I'm confused too. The torsion bar cross member doesn't have any bushings that I can think of.
 
Yeah, I'm confused too. The torsion bar cross member doesn't have any bushings that I can think of.
It doesn't, i am replacing all bushings right now on my car there's no bushings for the torsion bars
 
Yes, the torsion bar cross member is under tension, so you need to release the tension by backing out the torsion bar height adjustment bolts up front, then you can safely remove the bolts that go through the cross member. Also, don't over tighten, those bolts, they are easy to snap off if over torqued, I replaced mine with grade 8 bolts after I snapped one off.

Here is a picture of the end of one on my 73 where you can see the bushing from the cross member to the body mount. I replaced with poly bushings.
IMAG1664.jpg
 
Sorry for lack of clarity guys, it was in the title of the thread. The job is the one that 'Idrivemopar' has posted pics on. Thanks a lot for that. I presume that if I don't unload the bars the end of that cross member, it twists up towards the floor under tension.
I'll do the job just as you described. Already done all the K frames ones, did you notice any improvement after doing the torsion bar xmember bushings?
 
I had steel bushings made at the machine shop and also 'boxed in' the cross member. Yes it is easier to do after unloading the torsion bars tho I cant see it being too much more difficult to do without unloading the bars as the tension is opposing so shouldnt move around too much if the xmember is still solid, just need a persuader of some sort just like doing the Kmember bushings lol

very good advice about the bolts!

tbarbush.jpg
 
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Sorry for lack of clarity guys, it was in the title of the thread. The job is the one that 'Idrivemopar' has posted pics on. Thanks a lot for that. I presume that if I don't unload the bars the end of that cross member, it twists up towards the floor under tension.
I'll do the job just as you described. Already done all the K frames ones, did you notice any improvement after doing the torsion bar xmember bushings?
I cant really say, because I hadn't driven my car in over 10 years because it was not road safe because all the bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends etc were completely perished and replaced so it does ride nice now!
 
Thanks guys, appreciate the advice. I'll crack on with the job.
 
I don't think you'll need to unload the T bars tension since the force is againts the crossmember itself and not against the body like on earliers. This piece is in fact floating already. It could be on the air by itself and still will work without release the tension... just unbolt, remove the bottom section, get a small gap ( pry bar is enough ), remove the top section, insert the new top section, then the sleeve ( which tipically replacements have ), then bottom section then the bolt.

One side at a time
 
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I had steel bushings made at the machine shop and also 'boxed in' the cross member. Yes it is easier to do after unloading the torsion bars tho I cant see it being too much more difficult to do without unloading the bars as the tension is opposing so shouldnt move around too much if the xmember is still solid, just need a persuader of some sort just like doing the Kmember bushings lol

very good advice about the bolts!

View attachment 406484
Do you still have the info on those steel bushings you had made. I think I might put my mill to work and make some.
 
Well, I completed the job. I recommend a electric/air cutter to cut through the old bushings as they have a steel core. No amount of levering would allow me to remove the old upper bushings in situ.
1. remove bolt (happily not rusted in place)
2.Cut off the rubber bush exposing the centre steel core which is welded to a flat washer which stops you removing the item.
3.Used a hacksaw to cut thru the steel core (don't do this, it took ages, but I had no power cutter at hand), remove remains
4.Refit new bushings, centres and washers. Took 4 minutes to replace once the originals had finally come out
I found it easier to do the K frame bushes as there is an amount of leverage to expose parts that didn't seem available for the torsion bar cross member.
Anyway, all bushes now replaced inc ISO with poly bushes.
 
I had the shop do mine at the same time they did my control arm bushing, they had to enlarge the cross member at the bushing because the new ploys where larger in the center than the original rubber, used the original bolts, looks great and now I never have to worry about the cross member failing because of old dry rotted bushings.
 
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