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Results of new comp frame connectors installed.

1967coronet

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1st time I have installed a set and got to feel the before and after.
Had a one car before that connectors were already on but never had the before / after trial.

my 67 coronet , mild 440 and 727, 3:23 sure grip.
slapper bars on the springs. { yeh I know but Im old also }
the before, was if you mashed it from a stand still the tires broke loose and rear went or drifted to the right at the moment it started spinning the tires.
Bought a set of comp engineering connectors bolt ins and then welded them also.

Now once you cut it loose it goes straight , still spinning tires but the rear end stays put. After 20 / 25 ft the crown of the hyw will let it drift a bit to the right but nothing like before.

Doors shut fine with car on uneven ground, seems a little tighter all around driving.
all in all well worth the purchase and happy with their product.
 
1st time I have installed a set and got to feel the before and after.
Had a one car before that connectors were already on but never had the before / after trial.

my 67 coronet , mild 440 and 727, 3:23 sure grip.
slapper bars on the springs. { yeh I know but Im old also }
the before, was if you mashed it from a stand still the tires broke loose and rear went or drifted to the right at the moment it started spinning the tires.
Bought a set of comp engineering connectors bolt ins and then welded them also.

Now once you cut it loose it goes straight , still spinning tires but the rear end stays put. After 20 / 25 ft the crown of the hyw will let it drift a bit to the right but nothing like before.

Doors shut fine with car on uneven ground, seems a little tighter all around driving.
all in all well worth the purchase and happy with their product.
Thanks for posting. Are these like hotchkis 2"x2" square tubing ?
 
Thanks for posting. Are these like hotchkis 2"x2" square tubing ?

Yes the comps are 2 " sq. tube , they also had a steel 3/4" spacer to span the inside of the oem frame boxs so you did not crush them when you tighten.
I went ahead and welded those spacers in place after trail fit of the hardware, once bolted on, welded both sides of both ends just for insurance.
I should have done this a long time ago lol.
 
Yes the comps are 2 " sq. tube , they also had a steel 3/4" spacer to span the inside of the oem frame boxs so you did not crush them when you tighten.
I went ahead and welded those spacers in place after trail fit of the hardware, once bolted on, welded both sides of both ends just for insurance.
I should have done this a long time ago lol.
Thanks. I installed hotchkis geometry correcting springs. And intend to install their frame connectors too. I hadn't compared any others. Nice to know about these.
 
I put full weld in US Car Tools in mine. Haven't driven it yet but am looking forward to it. (I have a little work to do yet)
I bet my quarters at the door jamb won't split out any more either.
:thumbsup:
 
I'm way past that stage.I can tell you what ,,,,,,a "J" bar and setting the engine back a few inches made a world of difference in the driving and high speed driving.
 
Quick question, hope I'm not hijacking this, what about welding in both ends and then getting rubber or urethane mounts between the connectors and body and bolting those in?
 
Quick question, hope I'm not hijacking this, what about welding in both ends and then getting rubber or urethane mounts between the connectors and body and bolting those in?

Just my thoughts, rubber will still let things move. I know the weld to the floor style is stiffer yet. But I was lazy and didnt want to pull the seats, glued sound pad and carpet.
From what I have found just hooking the two ends together makes a difference.
 
1967coronet, I may try a polyurethane bushing and weld the ends. Similar to how a car body is mounted on a typical full frame. Stiffer than stock and no major carpet, insulation, sound deadening pulling. Just a little for the boltsvn washers.
 
1967coronet, I may try a polyurethane bushing and weld the ends. Similar to how a car body is mounted on a typical full frame. Stiffer than stock and no major carpet, insulation, sound deadening pulling. Just a little for the boltsvn washers.

That sounds like a good plan. True all the full frame cars ride on a bushing,
I wish I had used the US car tool style myself before the interior went in but that was 13 yrs ago ... live and learn, lol
 
I welded mine in with car sitting flat and level on the wheels. I then put the car on stands and pulled the running gear. The floor slopes slightly to the drain where I have the right front stand and the car is technically not touching that stand. It is so stiff that it is literally sitting on 3 stands. Before the connectors the car would flex and settle on to all four stands.
 
I welded mine in with car sitting flat and level on the wheels. I then put the car on stands and pulled the running gear. The floor slopes slightly to the drain where I have the right front stand and the car is technically not touching that stand. It is so stiff that it is literally sitting on 3 stands. Before the connectors the car would flex and settle on to all four stands.

I had mine on our 4 post drive on lift. had tire pressure same and made sure it was sitting level.
I know what you mean on the flex and stands, My 67 is very solid underneath all original pans, rails ect. But just seemed to have more flex.
 
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