Reverse light switch operating lever

1966 -1967 Mopars

  1. diesel_lv

    diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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    Ok, I have all wiring issues in and out solved. Except the reverse lights. Removed the plug and used a jumper and reverse lights come on. Removed the switch and then looked at the Service manual and it shows an "operating lever" on the steering column that would push the red spring loaded button on the back of the switch to complete the circuit and make the lights come on. No operating lever on my steering column. I'm betting it was made of plastic and hence broke years ago. I am definitely not feeling removing the column or whatever it will take to replace the operating lever. Other than using a toggle to turn on back up lights, does anyone have any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. 5.7 hemi

    5.7 hemi FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Are you sure it’s not in the trans? Usually the reverse switch is on the trans.
     
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    • diesel_lv

      diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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      No, it's not in the trans. I have the switch, as stated above, and it is good. The operating lever, plastic pin that goes into column and rotates, tripping the back up switch is missing. Can feel the hole it goes into. Found a thread that listed the part number. Found the part, $50 one site and $75 on another. Does anyone know how they are installed? Pressed in, with expanding flanges, or screwed in from inside? Before I bite the bullet and buy one, I'd like to know I can install it without pulling the steering column. Otherwise, I get the appropriate length sheet metal screw and screw it in and let that act as the operating lever. This is the part number if anyone is interested in what it looks like and maybe can tell better than I on how it installs. No instructions in Service manual. mopar part #2883211 image-jpeg.jpg image-jpeg.jpg
       
    • diesel_lv

      diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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      So, from what Ive read so far, a 1/4 inch diameter self tapping hex head thread cutting machine screw will work. just have to figure out the length. Then tap it, cut off the head and run a thin lock nut down it and done.
       
    • Billccm

      Billccm Well-Known Member

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      Please let me know how this works out! I replied to your other thread that the actuator is an issue. If someone would get the dimensions I could 3D print a few.
      My mechanical engineer colleague put the selector on drive and crawled under to look at the hole for the actuator. He felt it should be tapped, but even he could not get an idea on screw length.
      Picture attached of the hole with selector in drive.

      20190720_125126.jpg 20190720_125036.jpg
       
    • Billccm

      Billccm Well-Known Member

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      Second picture hole diameter.
       
    • diesel_lv

      diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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      Thanks. I measure from the base of the actual switch to the top of the cover that curves over the red lever. Its about 7/8". I think I'm gonna get a 1 inch self tapping machine screw. As close to the diameter as you show and tap it in. Check length and cut head off. If its good, it only needs to be in a couple threads with red locktight and a locknut. As long as it doesn't interfere with the shifter going from P-1, all good and the thin lock nut should help keep it from trying to bend from side to side with the spring tension always on it.
       
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      • diesel_lv

        diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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        It looks like a #10 machine screw is closest at 0.19 inch diameter.
         
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        • Billccm

          Billccm Well-Known Member

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          Let me know how it works for you. Any measurements is helpful.
          My mechanical engineer colleague recommended tapping the threads as he felt self tapping may have to go too deep.
           
        • Billccm

          Billccm Well-Known Member

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          If you do buy one send it to me and I'll 3D print a few for you at no charge. I gave you my cell in a PM
           
        • 5.7 hemi

          5.7 hemi FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Aha! I’m not up in the 66-67 cars so much, my apologies.
           
        • diesel_lv

          diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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          Just read a post from another forum. Said he used a #12-24x2 and it tapped in nicely. Said he did it in the car. 2 inches seems very long. I'm going to see if my local hardware store has any #11-24 thread cutting screws. Then once tapped, experiment w length. Will update once done.
           
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          • diesel_lv

            diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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            3 hardware stores where I live. Ace, Lowe's n Home Depot. None have a 12-24 machine screw. Got a tap, but no screws. Got under dash w tap, there is NO way. Either the people who have gotten screws in that hole w the column in the car don't have any a/c or heat ductwork or they have hands n arms the size of a 1 yr old. Definitely not pulling the column to do this. Guess it's a $3 toggle switch.
             
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            • 5.7 hemi

              5.7 hemi FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              Ya never have time to do it right the first time, but always have time to do it right the second time.
               
            • mopar 3 B

              mopar 3 B Well-Known Member

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              Think I would have just updated the shift paw in the trans and put it there.
               
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              • diesel_lv

                diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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                It's not a restoration nor show car. Just a daily driver that I will pass down to my grand or great grandkids as I got it from my great grandmother. It wont be done a 2nd time unless whichever grandchild inherits it decides they want to do it. I will have it bagged with an explanation of what it is. But I appreciate your attempt at teaching me values.
                 
              • 5.7 hemi

                5.7 hemi FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                Not trying to teach anything, just easier in the long run to fix it correctly.

                Enjoy the car and hopefully who ever gets it later, will have as much fun as you.
                 
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