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Right Stuff Front Brake Conversion 66 Coronet

Dusterva

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5:51 AM
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
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Location
Suffolk VA
Bought the kit from Summit. Installed on the vehicle including all lines front (and rear). After bleeding, as soon as I depress the pedal, the front wheel lock up and stay locked after letting off the pedal. Adjusted the rod, no change. Replaced the new Mater Cyl and both new calipers and it still does it. Pedal is high and firm. I am at a loss. Any help would be appreciated! No engine in the car so cant drive.
 
The kit comes with an adjustable valve for the rear only. The old MC was single reservoir. Nothing but a "T" between the MC and caliper.
 
You have new flex hoses right. Space MC out with washers between firewall and MC until brake push is loose if manual brakes. On power brakes you can do it too. This just to experiment if rod length is the problem.
 
Hoses are flex. I replaced the ones in the kit with new ones, no difference. The rod is adjustable. Instructions say 1/8 inch play. I have adjusted in/out but makes no difference. These are not power brakes, manual only.
 
I would be calling Summit...they have tech people for this.
 
May not be an issue for your car but my friend with a 69 Roadrunner (thread a few down on same page) had pretty much the same issue. We had to screw the booster rod completely in to get it working and not lock the brakes after release. Someone told him to adjust the rod to where it was just touching the piston as the MC was held against the booster. If you could see the piston shoulder just barely move in the rear chamber port as it was held to the booster that was good. His pedal is now down hard about half way to the floor but his brakes don't stay locked up when he releases the pedal.
 
Tried adjusting the actuator rod 1/4 turn at a time taking out all of the play and beyond. Did not free up the right front wheel and the left was very tight but could be turned by hand.
 
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