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RMS AlterKtion & Caltracs

Marco K

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Joined
Jun 18, 2019
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Location
Germany
Hi I'm new to this Forum but I already have a question.
I can't get any good 60feet times out of my car / Suspension.
It seems like I've no weight Transfer at all with the RMS kit, I've tried softer springs in the front, that seemed to help a Little bit but mot much...

My best 60feet so far is 1.85sec...

Here is my Setup:

1969 Road Runner 3500lbs
4speed face plated
Dana60 4.10gears MT28x10.5 slicks
RMS AlterKtion in front with QA1 SA (swaybar removed)
Caltracs, split monoleafs and calvert Shocks
493cui solid roller, single plane etc....

Anyone here who is running a similar Setup and could help me out?
 


RMS front end with Viking double adjustables and a Street Lynx rear with Viking Double adjustables.

10.10 @ 132.74 with a 1.36 60. That is at a weight of 4100 pounds. Also have a competition engineering anti roll bar.

Here are my shock settings.

Front

9 rebound

18 compression

Rear

12 RH 13 LH rebound

15 RH 14 LH compression

Hope this helps.
 
Hi thanks for your reply.
Are you happy with your Viking Shocks?

I've spoken to Bill and he recommended them to me aswell, not sure how big the difference will be compared to my SA QA1.
Viking told me I should go for the Crusader custom valving...

For the back i was told Afco is the way to go...

But there are not many People out there that run Caltracs and the RMS kit....

Any thoughts ?
 
Car worked much better when I switched from single to double adjustable.
I used to run springs and slide links before the street lynx. Car was not as consistent and good on the 60 as it is now.
Cal tracks can work well if car is set up properly. Maybe someone running will chime in.
 
are the slicks radial or bias ? Radials are not good with a stick
 
Slicks are bias 28x10.5 MT3055S with stiff sidewall.
In the beginning I was running the Slicks with tubes, but the tire was too stiff for the tracks we have here. There was not even the typical wrinkle .
After removing the tubes it worked better.

Also no sliders here, I'm still using original shackles.
Should I upgrade to sliders?
 
Maybe DVW will chime in. He usually has good insight on stuff like this.
 
Do you have video? I find it hard to believe it worked better w/o tubes. What rpm are you leaving at?
Doug
 
I'm leaving with 4000rpm, thats were my engine had the most torque.
I do have some Videos on my phone but really bad Quality.
Also all Videos are without tubes unfortunately I've no Videos with tubes installed.
 
Just wondering, have you tried leaving with less rpm ?. What did it do at 3500 or 3700?. Are you just roasting the tires at 4000?. I'm about to put my RMS front ends on also.Went with the street/ handling ,stock ride height kit with Ride tech front shocks ,cal track adj. rear shocks. Was going to try to run a 002,003 springs with cal tracks also. Don't know how much it matters but was told to go with standard ride height for better weight transfer and to bolt clamp my springs. I'm wondering if this sounds right to you guys that have been there and done that.
 
I've tried less rpm, around 3000, but than it starts to bog...
Not easy to find the sweet spot between bogging and crazy wheel spin..

Also my clutch, McLeod street twin is like an on off Switch...
 
I'm curious what psi you are running in the rear tires. If you don't get a wrinkle in the sidewall with a bias ply slick, you likely have too much pressure in the tire. I run 29.5 x 9 x 15 M/T bias ply slicks on our N/SS car. It will run 1.50's 60 foot times with caltracs.
 
...we run 14.5-15 psi in our rear slicks.
 


RMS front end with Viking double adjustables and a Street Lynx rear with Viking Double adjustables.

10.10 @ 132.74 with a 1.36 60. That is at a weight of 4100 pounds. Also have a competition engineering anti roll bar.

Here are my shock settings.

Front

9 rebound

18 compression

Rear

12 RH 13 LH rebound

15 RH 14 LH compression

Hope this helps.

wondering at what RPM are you launching at?
 
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