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Rocker arms for Trick Flow Heads

Hemirunner

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I'm sorry I don't know this, but do you have Trick Flow heads? If "yes", Is one of those 2 brands what you used?

Bio, yes, I have a set on the bench and have posted builds on several other TF builds on here. I used the HS rockers on the last build that produced 788hp. I didn’t care for the, what I thought was, excessive play on the roller tip shaft. It seemed to be much more than I remember and could be problematic with higher spring loads.
I have also used Jesel and T&D over the years on many builds, but usually with Indy heads. I also used the Crower independent rocker system on a small block build on here with Edelbrock Victor heads. I prefer the quality and accuracy of these rocker Systems over the beefy HS systems. Especially the independent shaft, bedplate style systems which require milling. The Crower rockers were dead on.
I have not checked to see if either company make a bolt on setup specifically for the TF heads. I’ll have to do some research.
 
@Hemirunner
Thanks for starting this thread on this.
I get some of the most detailed information from you and I appreciate it.
I am fortunate to have what I believe and have experience with now, a builder and company I can trust, AND they have deep experience with Mopar racing and vast engine systems and components and 2 machine shops to make it happen.
Given that I am investing in a $5K plus BMP aluminum block and Trick Flow 270 heads, I have to have everything else done right, and the cam profile and stability of the valve train are especially important to me. Unless they convince me to use hydraulic rollers, I think the best lifters for my application would be solid flat tappet. I won't have to worry about the issues of solid rollers and stop and go traffic, and I believe the larger diameter of the Mopar lifter will allow for a cam profile that is close enough to a roller profile to make the kind of modest HP and torque that I'm looking for from a 541 cu in block. The same goes for valve spring pressure, I think that using the inherent power in having a large displacement engine will allow for a lift that doesn't require astronomical spring pressure, and the solid flat tappets are relatively light weight too.
I hope to keep the need for maintenance (checking lash) to a minimum, and from what I've read, that seems to be an easily attainable goal.
Now I don't know squat about engine building, but I think all of that makes sense. Having the rocker arm geometry "right" all plays into my goal of having a reliable, consistent, powerful engine that I can depend on, and that isn't fighting against itself by having misaligned components.
 
Bio ,
HS make a specific rocker to suit the Trickflow .
I use Crane Gold 1.5s on mine they are spot on . I only wish Crane still made the 1.6s i would like to try a little more lift , i only have .600 nett now

Tex
 
I think your spot on after reading your posts for a long time now.
While I think a Hyd. roller is nice, @ 541 cubes, the minor output gain will not be noticed in your intended and described driving intentions. A solid tappet cam, as you described will work great & make great power.

Guys like @Hemirunner are a huge help and that shout out to Hemirunner is my little thank you and vote of confidence on his behalf for everyone. This forum has a really good group of been there and done that guys willing to help and share. It can’t be beat.

@Hemirunner
Thanks for starting this thread on this.
I get some of the most detailed information from you and I appreciate it.
I am fortunate to have what I believe and have experience with now, a builder and company I can trust, AND they have deep experience with Mopar racing and vast engine systems and components and 2 machine shops to make it happen.
Given that I am investing in a $5K plus BMP aluminum block and Trick Flow 270 heads, I have to have everything else done right, and the cam profile and stability of the valve train are especially important to me. Unless they convince me to use hydraulic rollers, I think the best lifters for my application would be solid flat tappet. I won't have to worry about the issues of solid rollers and stop and go traffic, and I believe the larger diameter of the Mopar lifter will allow for a cam profile that is close enough to a roller profile to make the kind of modest HP and torque that I'm looking for from a 541 cu in block. The same goes for valve spring pressure, I think that using the inherent power in having a large displacement engine will allow for a lift that doesn't require astronomical spring pressure, and the solid flat tappets are relatively light weight too.
I hope to keep the need for maintenance (checking lash) to a minimum, and from what I've read, that seems to be an easily attainable goal.
Now I don't know squat about engine building, but I think all of that makes sense. Having the rocker arm geometry "right" all plays into my goal of having a reliable, consistent, powerful engine that I can depend on, and that isn't fighting against itself by having misaligned components.
 
I think your spot on after reading your posts for a long time now.
While I think a Hyd. roller is nice, @ 541 cubes, the minor output gain will not be noticed in your intended and described driving intentions. A solid tappet cam, as you described will work great & make great power.

Guys like @Hemirunner are a huge help and that shout out to Hemirunner is my little thank you and vote of confidence on his behalf for everyone. This forum has a really good group of been there and done that guys willing to help and share. It can’t be beat.
Thanks. I can only share my experience, which is less than a lot, but more than most.
 
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