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Roll cage and...

1967coronet440

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So I'm going to install a cage in my 67 coronet (6 point), I'm just looking for info on what else goes with it. I have sub frame connectors (not installed yet) are they necessary with the cage? Do I need front and rear torque boxes? I've never installed one before so any info would be appreciated
 
6 point cage and frame connectors are a good idea.....
 
I would reckon torque boxes would be also...the stiffer, the better. that's what she said lol
 
So I'm going to install a cage in my 67 coronet (6 point), I'm just looking for info on what else goes with it. I have sub frame connectors (not installed yet) are they necessary with the cage? Do I need front and rear torque boxes? I've never installed one before so any info would be appreciated
Whats the goal?
I ran 11.2 with my GTX with only subframe connectors.
The car twisted pretty good and probably not smart, but I was never accused of being a genius.

FB_IMG_1430961154056-1.jpg
 
Torque boxes would be wise. Tie into the front leaf hanger and make sure rear bars tie in over the shackle mount.
 
Whats the goal?
I ran 11.2 with my GTX with only subframe connectors.
The car twisted pretty good and probably not smart, but I was never accused of being a genius.

View attachment 401927
I was going over nhra rules and it says 10.99 and under requires minimum 5 point cage, with my set up I'm thinking I'll hit mid 10's - 505 stroker, strange s60 with 4.10 gears, 29" tire 4 link rear suspension. While I have the car apart I figured I would pull the interior and put the cage in now.
 
I was going over nhra rules and it says 10.99 and under requires minimum 5 point cage, with my set up I'm thinking I'll hit mid 10's - 505 stroker, strange s60 with 4.10 gears, 29" tire 4 link rear suspension. While I have the car apart I figured I would pull the interior and put the cage in now.


11.49 and up to 10.00 needs a roll bar.9.99 to 8.50 needs a cage
 
I have all of them on mine and don't regret it. I used to lift the drivers tire 6" and still had the passenger side on the ground. Now, everything comes up equally. The rest of the body also hasn't gotten as wavy as it has in the past over time. It wasn't much but definitely noticeable after a few years of thrashing it at the track. It also handles noticeably better. The one thing I would do different is to make sure there is more engagement between the floor and the subframe connectors. My installer did not cut the floor and join the two. It is plenty rigid but could be even better.
 
From what I've read and it seems to reason that you should consider hard if you should install a roll bar or roll cage. If you still drive on the street a cage may be more dangerous than safe. Think about hitting your bare head on the front of the halo on a cage., maybe not with a harness. I got a summit 6pt roll bar kit for about $350, like in the pic below and added bars to make it a 10pt, and it bolts in to plates welded to the frame, rockers, and subframe connectors. It goes from the shock towers to the rear frame rails. But it still is technically a nhra legal roll bar, not a cage with halo or dash bar.

cee-3021-k_w.jpgCAM00138.jpg

20141204_113601_resized.jpg
 
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From what I've read and it seems to reason that you should consider hard if you should install a roll bar or roll cage. If you still drive on the street a cage may be more dangerous than safe. Think about hitting your bare head on the front of the halo on a cage., maybe not with a harness. I got a 6pt roll bar kit for about $200, like in the pic below and added bars to make it a 10pt, and it bolts in to plates at the frame, rockers, and subframe connectors. But it still is technically a nhra legal roll bar, not a cage with halo or dash bar.
View attachment 401941
It will very much be driven on the street as well, I was looking at a similar kit to that one you have, if I understand correctly you weld in the plates and bolt that kit to the mounting plates?

Thanks
 
It will very much be driven on the street as well, I was looking at a similar kit to that one you have, if I understand correctly you weld in the plates and bolt that kit to the mounting plates?

Thanks
Yes, Here is a pic in post #151 & #159 of the mount plates if you want to see how here is my thread, you'll have to scan thru it for info and pics of the roll bar installation and later adding bars.> http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/500-68-charger.46289/page-8
 
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Thanks for the link, I'll definitely comb through it. I know with frame connectors you typically want to have the motor and trans in the car and suspension loaded when you install. Would this be the same with the cage or am I fine to install it while the drivetrain is out.
 
Thanks for the link, I'll definitely comb through it. I know with frame connectors you typically want to have the motor and trans in the car and suspension loaded when you install. Would this be the same with the cage or am I fine to install it while the drivetrain is out.
I am going to install everything heavy then tighten the bar mount bolts.
 
My best advice is, find a good local chassis shop to custom bend and TIG weld into place.
 
My best advice is, find a good local chassis shop to custom bend and TIG weld into place.
Appreciate you chiming in, my brother in law is a welder
By trade, he will be doing all the welding on the car.
 
Appreciate you chiming in, my brother in law is a welder
By trade, he will be doing all the welding on the car.

Here is a roll bar tip (we install plenty of them and they are very different for street cars vs race cars).

To complete the welds on the top of the hoop and have the bars as tight as possible to the roof (this is for a street roll bar), drill holes the size of the rollbar main hoop tubing in the floor where they will be installed. 1.75" or 1.625" are common roll bar diameters.

You need to install a 1/8" plate under the rollbar at the floor, so cut &fab the plates but do not weld them in quite yet, just slide them under the main hoop ends. Mark the down bar locations and angles, then slide the floorplates out of the way and drop the main hoop down into the holes. This will allow you access to weld the top of the down bar fish-mouth joint. For a final install, push the hoop back up into position and slide the floor plate under the floor end of the rollbar main hoop. Weld plates, rollbar and gussets.

On a street bar, we get the roll bar as far away from the drivers head as possible (up near the roof) and pad it. You do not have a helmet on when driving on the street and an un-padded roll bar near your head is actually more dangerous than no bar at all. On a race bar, we keep the roll bar no more than 3 inches from the drivers head when in a helmet, minimizes the travel until it stops your head in a crash (and you are wearing a helmet).

Hope that helps.
 
Here is a roll bar tip (we install plenty of them and they are very different for street cars vs race cars).

To complete the welds on the top of the hoop and have the bars as tight as possible to the roof (this is for a street roll bar), drill holes the size of the rollbar main hoop tubing in the floor where they will be installed. 1.75" or 1.625" are common roll bar diameters.

You need to install a 1/8" plate under the rollbar at the floor, so cut &fab the plates but do not weld them in quite yet, just slide them under the main hoop ends. Mark the down bar locations and angles, then slide the floorplates out of the way and drop the main hoop down into the holes. This will allow you access to weld the top of the down bar fish-mouth joint. For a final install, push the hoop back up into position and slide the floor plate under the floor end of the rollbar main hoop. Weld plates, rollbar and gussets.

On a street bar, we get the roll bar as far away from the drivers head as possible (up near the roof) and pad it. You do not have a helmet on when driving on the street and an un-padded roll bar near your head is actually more dangerous than no bar at all. On a race bar, we keep the roll bar no more than 3 inches from the drivers head when in a helmet, minimizes the travel until it stops your head in a crash (and you are wearing a helmet).

Hope that helps.
Thanks for the pointers, we're first time installers, need all the help we can get.
 
Here is a good resource for NHRA rules on Rollbars and cages: http://promod.nhra.com/userfiles/file/Tech/2017_NHRA_Rulebook_Gen. Regs.pdf
section 4:10 is the rollbar vs rollcage rules. For a stock car with OEM firewall and floor, you do not need a rollcage until 10.00, a rollbar will suffice. Frankly, if your car is in the 10's it is not likely a great street car anymore or you are hardcore enough to wear a helmet on the way to cruise night.
 
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