Rotella T oil

73duster340

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Is anyone using this oil in their engines?
Is it safe and how low is the zinc additive?
 

Cranky

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All oils are very low in ZDDP unless you buy oil that's specifically high in it. Roller cam engines just don't need it so much anymore like regular non roller cams...but I don't remember how much is has in it.
 

monaco66coupe

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Is anyone using this oil in their engines?
Is it safe and how low is the zinc additive?
I was able to look up a summary of oils with Their respective zinc level, and Rotella Diesel 15-45 averaged at 1,000 PPM. In 1969 the minimum factory requirements were in the 1200 range. I use Rotella in all the old cars after I lost a perfectly redone 383 HP, when I ran conventional oil in 2008. The new oils have absolutely no zinc in them.(federally mandated) Also, Rotella doesn't have a fast drain back feature, or scrubber additives that scour the engine. In addition,I keep a supply of Lucas zinc additive around, Part#10036. You can buy it on line direct, and is about 9.00 for an 8 ounce bottle.(one bottle, two oil changes) and I add 4 ounces of Zinc for added Insurance. Now, I can go out at 10 below and start the 440 up, with no ticking, or metal on metal sounds, and good oil pressure from the start. No lifter noise, nothing. Six years running, and going strong. There are other brands that do just as well, just be sure if nothing else use the Lucas additive, and you will not regret it. My oil change runs me 25 bucks for everything,
as the diesel oil is even cheaper than the conventional oils, at least around my area. Also, The 15-45 weight was no problem, either. In 1969 people were still running straight 30w clear into December, and the 60's engines did just fine. While in Phoenix I ran 20-50 Castrol, and my 340 just hummed.

Any Diesel oil is good, I chose Rotella because I can buy it anywhere, and running a Diesel Ram, I buy in a large quantities.
 

66chargerpat

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I've been running Rotella 10-30w and 15-45w for the last 60k miles with no problems yet. Knock on wood.
 

73duster340

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I was able to look up a summary of oils with Their respective zinc level, and Rotella Diesel 15-45 averaged at 1,000 PPM. In 1969 the minimum factory requirements were in the 1200 range. I use Rotella in all the old cars after I lost a perfectly redone 383 HP, when I ran conventional oil in 2008. The new oils have absolutely no zinc in them.(federally mandated) Also, Rotella doesn't have a fast drain back feature, or scrubber additives that scour the engine. In addition,I keep a supply of Lucas zinc additive around, Part#10036. You can buy it on line direct, and is about 9.00 for an 8 ounce bottle.(one bottle, two oil changes) and I add 4 ounces of Zinc for added Insurance. Now, I can go out at 10 below and start the 440 up, with no ticking, or metal on metal sounds, and good oil pressure from the start. No lifter noise, nothing. Six years running, and going strong. There are other brands that do just as well, just be sure if nothing else use the Lucas additive, and you will not regret it. My oil change runs me 25 bucks for everything,
as the diesel oil is even cheaper than the conventional oils, at least around my area. Also, The 15-45 weight was no problem, either. In 1969 people were still running straight 30w clear into December, and the 60's engines did just fine. While in Phoenix I ran 20-50 Castrol, and my 340 just hummed.

Any Diesel oil is good, I chose Rotella because I can buy it anywhere, and running a Diesel Ram, I buy in a large quantities.



I was just concerned if it had a detergent in the oil and it would harm engine parts.
Lucas oil additive is a great product.
I also heard STP oil treatment was good as well.
Thanks for the excellent advice.
 

sleepar

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Instead of mixing and knocking on wood.... just buy the high Zink off road oil like valvoline or the brad Penn.... good fuel with out the alcohol will keep the oil cleaner longer... run the good gas @$12 a gallon average.... cheap and old mopar don't mix. Want a cheap mopar get a 2.2 charger from the 80's.... and 1/2 those guys that hot rod those run the good stuff...
 

wedge69

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I Personally have seen the Inside of motors useing this oil and I Wouldn't run it ! Being a big truck mechanic I have seen how this oil puts a black sludge all over the inside . Now Moble Delvac 1300 is a Much Cleaner oil by far !
 
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monaco66coupe

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I Personally have seen the Inside of motors useing this oil and I Wouldn't run it ! Being a big truck mechanic I have seen how this oil puts a black sludge all over the inside . Now Moble Delvac 1300 is a Much Kleener oil by far !
I've seen what that high zinc off road Penn does to the Inside of an engine, and penn is black sludge waiting to happen. Oil doesn't have to be expensive to be a good product. 108 octane here is only 7.99 a gallon, and none of my cars get anywhere near alcohol, unless I'm drinking a beer standing next to it.Mobil delvac is also a very good product. I think my 440 GTX qualifies as a fairly expensive car, but it will never see any Penn product or other high sulphur product in it's oil pan. it is 48 years old, and I want it to last a bit longer.
 

sleepar

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Anyways... I have used the rotella T and it was good then they stoped selling it a few years ago at Wal-Mart... so I switched to valvoline more out of convenience and I only buy through the mail now.... I have noticed a cleaner engine than the diesels oil... I like Lucas stuff in everything also.... I use the K&N shorty with out the nut... from a fram.... I have grown to understand the quality of the lubricant is everything. I have used motorcycle products from bell ray and lubes... it's expensive but if money were no object bell ray in the proper weight is tops... from years of pushing bikes hard...
 

Pat70rr

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great info hope all is well Monaco ...
I was able to look up a summary of oils with Their respective zinc level, and Rotella Diesel 15-45 averaged at 1,000 PPM. In 1969 the minimum factory requirements were in the 1200 range. I use Rotella in all the old cars after I lost a perfectly redone 383 HP, when I ran conventional oil in 2008. The new oils have absolutely no zinc in them.(federally mandated) Also, Rotella doesn't have a fast drain back feature, or scrubber additives that scour the engine. In addition,I keep a supply of Lucas zinc additive around, Part#10036. You can buy it on line direct, and is about 9.00 for an 8 ounce bottle.(one bottle, two oil changes) and I add 4 ounces of Zinc for added Insurance. Now, I can go out at 10 below and start the 440 up, with no ticking, or metal on metal sounds, and good oil pressure from the start. No lifter noise, nothing. Six years running, and going strong. There are other brands that do just as well, just be sure if nothing else use the Lucas additive, and you will not regret it. My oil change runs me 25 bucks for everything,
as the diesel oil is even cheaper than the conventional oils, at least around my area. Also, The 15-45 weight was no problem, either. In 1969 people were still running straight 30w clear into December, and the 60's engines did just fine. While in Phoenix I ran 20-50 Castrol, and my 340 just hummed.

Any Diesel oil is good, I chose Rotella because I can buy it anywhere, and running a Diesel Ram, I buy in a large quantities.
 

dburnett6263

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Well, lots of input here and all good info. Here's what I'm using with good luck. First off I have a pretty wild street, pump gas, 383 by Fetter's.
Break in with Brad Penn 30W break in oil with 1 pint Brad Penn zinc additive. Then running Valvoline VR1 30W Racing oil with 1 pint Brad Penn zinc additive. The VR1 still has zinc. O'reillys orders it in 6 at a time. Get The Brad Penn. zinc from Jegs.
I'm in Southwest Ohio so no winter driving just some start ups & up and down the driveway to keep things moving.

- - - Updated - - -

Well, lots of input here and all good info. Here's what I'm using with good luck. First off I have a pretty wild street, pump gas, 383 by Fetter's.
Break in with Brad Penn 30W break in oil with 1 pint Brad Penn zinc additive. Then running Valvoline VR1 30W Racing oil with 1 pint Brad Penn zinc additive. The VR1 still has zinc. O'reillys orders it in 6 at a time. Get The Brad Penn. zinc from Jegs.
I'm in Southwest Ohio so no winter driving just some start ups & up and down the driveway to keep things moving.
 

Roger63

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Let me weigh in on this I have used rotella in all 4 of the trucks I have owned in the last 21 years with no problems at all. Thats 3 million miles with no engine failures I think thats pretty good.
 

HYRDGOON

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I was able to look up a summary of oils with Their respective zinc level, and Rotella Diesel 15-45 averaged at 1,000 PPM. In 1969 the minimum factory requirements were in the 1200 range. I use Rotella in all the old cars after I lost a perfectly redone 383 HP, when I ran conventional oil in 2008. The new oils have absolutely no zinc in them.(federally mandated) Also, Rotella doesn't have a fast drain back feature, or scrubber additives that scour the engine. In addition,I keep a supply of Lucas zinc additive around, Part#10036. You can buy it on line direct, and is about 9.00 for an 8 ounce bottle.(one bottle, two oil changes) and I add 4 ounces of Zinc for added Insurance. Now, I can go out at 10 below and start the 440 up, with no ticking, or metal on metal sounds, and good oil pressure from the start. No lifter noise, nothing. Six years running, and going strong. There are other brands that do just as well, just be sure if nothing else use the Lucas additive, and you will not regret it. My oil change runs me 25 bucks for everything,
as the diesel oil is even cheaper than the conventional oils, at least around my area. Also, The 15-45 weight was no problem, either. In 1969 people were still running straight 30w clear into December, and the 60's engines did just fine. While in Phoenix I ran 20-50 Castrol, and my 340 just hummed.

Any Diesel oil is good, I chose Rotella because I can buy it anywhere, and running a Diesel Ram, I buy in a large quantities.

I run exactly the same as Monaco as advised by my builder
 

natas33

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using diesel oil in all my cars has even resoftened rear main seals and crank hub seals and they no longer leak

believe it, or not. I don't care. I know what I use.. the same oil that drives the engine in vehicles that pull 2 trailer loads of passenger cars interstate on the back

think McFly :glasses11:, think. which oil is going to protect better, given the task at hand. its all you need to think, once you figure it out, and try it, you will never go back to believing what they tell you is good for you is whats best
 

HT413

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I'm sorry, but I've seen a lot of people claim Rotella T has less than 1200ppm zinc but I've never seen anyone post data or sources. Admittedly, there are very few primary sources online about the Rotella oils, but everything I've read on Bobistheoilguy.com (admittedly just a forum and not a primary source) suggests that Rotella DOES have between 1200ppm and 1300ppm zinc, as well as other friction modifiers.

Until i see sufficient data, it's all just rumor.
 

SUPERSTOCKRACER

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The old Rotella T had high zinc in it. The new formula put out by Rotella drastically reduced the amount of zinc content in its formula.
I'm not saying Rotella is bad or good for a musclecar. Just pointing out the facts bout the zinc content.
 

Cranky

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The TDR magazine put out some info a couple of years ago when Rotella lowered the zinc levels. If I can find it, I'll post it....used to be a member at the site.
 

FJ6AAR

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I though Brad Penn was good. I am running BP 10W 40 partial syn.,do I need to change? I do not want sludge.
 

monaco66coupe

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I saw where Rotella did lower the Zinc levels around 2009. they were up at 1800 or so PPM. Now, they are down in the 1000 range. When I saw that, I began to add The Lucas product #10036 to my oil. 4 ounces per change.
The guys I know in the Cummins group say the newer 6.7 engines with the new oils need more frequent changes, no more 7,500 intervals. 3000-5000 max. I found None of the Diesel oils now much higher than 1200ppm. The Gov't doesn't like the 5.9 Cummins engines, and think we are terrible people for driving them.

To clarify my experience with Brad penn, I drive my cars a lot. after long trips, and in the desert heat the oil blackened up pretty bad, and the Inside of the valve covers showed it. It began to look like the crap the Dodge dealer uses when I got oil changes on my Ram. I now use Rotella or Mobil delvac. I don't want to mislead anyone, this is just my experience. I've been around oil since the 50's working at my Dad's Mobil station. and in my view there is a fine line between non Detergent, which caused sludge and pre-mature wear in the old days, and excessive detergents , that to me scours the old engines too much. I found I needed a product that would stick to the metal parts, rather than completely drain down to the pan. The diesel oils in my case eliminated the harsh metal on metal sounds I would get during warmup. the lifters stayed pumped up, and the bearings still had oil residue on them from the previous drive. it isn't just about Zinc, it is the other stuff in the oil designed to Increase fuel mileage in the newer cars. A middle ground product that cleans, but not too much, and sticks around, not disappear, is the best for an engine that is driven on a regular basis. I drive a 69' Coronet 383 HP, and 440 GTX. I don't race at the track,I just do lots of driving.
 
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