• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Rust Proofing Our Mopars

slepr1

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:16 PM
Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
2,348
Reaction score
2,711
Location
Stoney Creek, Ontario
What's your take on rustproofing your mopars? It makes a bit of a mess but it keeps the rust at bay. Any recommended types of rust proofing?
 
I vote for krown. it creeps everywhere, I marked a clean piece of sheet metal and then sprayed a line of krown on it and by the next morning it actually crawled up the metal!!:thumbsup:
 
This may not quite be what you were asking, but in my experience most Mopars rust from the inside, not from the outside. The rust settles in the areas between the quarter panel and wheel house, or between the trunk extension and quarter panel, etc. - you get the idea.

When I had my body restored, I had as much of the INSIDE areas painted/sprayed with various forms of paint, rust inhibitors, etc. I even had my hood and trunk (while off the car) filled with POR-15 and then swirled around and out of the small openings. Obviously, this was before final prep and paint. I believe that will be the best way to try and protect my car from rust.

Now that is done, I had the bottom over-restored and sprayed body color. I will put undercoating in the wheel wells only, for both sound deadening but also to protect the painted metal from rocks and debris. Besides that, I will use no undercoating. It just weighs a lot and if the area is not subject to rocks and debris, I am not sure it is needed.

My $0.02

Hawk
 
X2 on the POR 15. I painted/sprayed semi-gloss POR in every crack and crevice and surface area under the chassis, the entire trunk, interior side of my roof, inside the doors, trunk lid, under the dash, etc. Used Hi-Gloss POR on my K member and a couple of suspension pieces - the Hi Gloss looks good. However POR 15 can't be exposed for long periods to direct sunlight or it will turn gray. For areas that will be seen and top coated I used Rust-Mort and then etch primer, after sandblasting/sanding. BTW you can topcoat POR too if you scuff it first. I used Rust-Mort in the engine compartment and component pieces that I rebuilt, like my brake assembly.

BTW if you use POR wear gloves, eye protection, respirator, long sleeves. If you get it on your skin wipe it off immediately otherwise it will be on you for a while.
 
I don't hear much about it anymore, but Ziebart used to be popular in the 70's.
 
My 67 belvedere from Georgia was factory under coated as indicated on window sticker and had hood pad. The undercoating was super thick throughout and looked ugly but the metal underneath was absolutely perfect. To protect from rust by road debris and pebbles being kicked up into underside and opening up paint to bare metal I plan on reapplying undercoating as close to factory as possible.
 
Cosmoline inside doors & fenders & underneath, oil spray on top of that. The cosmoline will melt and flow on a hot day.
 
Quoting Propwash from one of his posts:

"Another real good option after everything is welded up and coated, is use a under panel coating like 3M Rustfighter or Rustfighter II. You twist the bottle onto a standard body schutz gun, use a flexible 3' long flexible wand and spray it in any nook and cranny you can get it in (like frame rails, extension panels, rockers ect..ect...). It has the consistency of petroleum jelly, never dries and is an excellent moisture barrier. I know several high end resto/body shops that exclusively use it."

http://3mcollision.com/3m-rust-fighter-i-08891.html
 
Quoting Propwash from one of his posts:

"Another real good option after everything is welded up and coated, is use a under panel coating like 3M Rustfighter or Rustfighter II. You twist the bottle onto a standard body schutz gun, use a flexible 3' long flexible wand and spray it in any nook and cranny you can get it in (like frame rails, extension panels, rockers ect..ect...). It has the consistency of petroleum jelly, never dries and is an excellent moisture barrier. I know several high end resto/body shops that exclusively use it."

http://3mcollision.com/3m-rust-fighter-i-08891.html
excellent product
 
I vote for krown. it creeps everywhere, I marked a clean piece of sheet metal and then sprayed a line of krown on it and by the next morning it actually crawled up the metal!!:thumbsup:

I've used Krown in the past. Good product as it does exactly as you said. My only issue is the oily buildup everywhere and eventually the oily smell. Btw, my son and daughter live in Corunna.
 
My 67 belvedere from Georgia was factory
under coated as indicated on window sticker and had hood pad. The undercoating was super thick throughout and looked ugly but the metal underneath was absolutely perfect. To protect from rust by road debris and pebbles being kicked up into underside and opening up paint to bare metal I plan on reapplying undercoating as close to factory as possible.

My 70 gtx came with under coating , I was thinking maybe it was done at factory. When my dad done body work , floor pans where good ,, im working on gas lines now, man that stuff is tuff, and your right ugly
 
My 70 gtx came with under coating , I was thinking maybe it was done at factory. When my dad done body work , floor pans where good ,, im working on gas lines now, man that stuff is tuff, and your right ugly

Link with pics from factory showing undercoating in before rear axle, k frame assembly, after gas tank etc. Rub marks in my undercoating from e brake cable bears this out as it could never rub with axle in...

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=6448494&page=&fpart=&vc=1

Good reproduction stuff that is probable more durable as far as cracking/ ability to flex than the epoxy bedliners:

http://www.restorick.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Undercoat
 
We put Por 15 in a pump up style weed sprayer. Spray up above the wheel wells, lower 1/4s, cowl, doors. Cover anything you don't want covered when it drips out. Keep the doors open. Stuff is like Concrete when it drys. You can't sand blast it off. Seals any pin hole.
Doug
 
I don't hear much about it anymore, but Ziebart used to be popular in the 70's.
I was thinking, I would like to find a place that does Z -bart. My 64 Dodge has plugs in each end of the rocker panels. I took them out and hosed the rocker panels out with water. Got a bunch of dirt and junk out. I would like to coat the insides of my rockers -thru those plugs.............................MO.
 
I think that the Ziebart thing was to drill holes in areas that you couldn't get to. I drilled holes in the ends of the rockers (front and rear) and sprayed into them with the wand of the weed sprayer. I used the POR stuff as well.
 
I use a product called Texaco L. Don't know if you can get it anymore. I put it in a 3M body shutz gun and spray it while its melted. Works great. No rust ever again. If you ever go to repaint, you got problems.
 
RUSFRE 1020F6 Automotive Spray-On Rubberized Undercoat. Spray on with shutz gun or paint on with brush like i did.Paid $22. a Gallon. Carquest
 
Back in the late '70's we were using Ziebart. Drilled doors, rockers, ect. Sprayed with a wand, then used plastic plugs in the holes. I liked the product. (Dealer option)
Now i had a theory on the undercoating. If it was done at the factory you had good adhesion. If it was done at the dealer there was dust and such on the underside which could limit the adheasion. I would find some vehicles with undercoating coming loose, allowing moisture to get between it and the metal, causing rust outs. When the auto manufacturers started offering five year warrantys on body and paint, you could see how the design of the inner wheel compartments changed for the better...
 
When I had my car redone, the painter used POR-15 as a primer. He painted the car with it, wet sanded it, then put on the top coat. So far it's working great.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top