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Sanding clear coat

Cranky

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Just got done with the 2000 paper...should I go with 2500 for best results or am I ready for the buffer and polish? Been some years back the last time I did this and had some polish that finished it up pretty nice but can't remember what it was now and don't remember if I went to the 2500. I have some Meguiar's 20 'Professional' mirror glaze and some Mother's.....or is there something different I should use first?
 
2000 grit should have done the trick. If your still have orange peal, you might need to go back to 1000 or 1500. Just be careful that you don't go through the clear coat.

How many coats of clear did you apply?
 
I'm guessing it'd be looking pretty good after using the 2000 paper Cranky, you could go to the 3000 paper if you really want to get carried away.
I don't imagine there be any need to lay into it with a heavy compound even after using the 2000.
Personally I don't like the lambs wool buffing pads, the good thing about the foam pads is there's at least 6 different grades.....from firm (red) right down to very soft for final finishing.....I can't quite recall but it might be the green one.
 
Actually, it's the factory clear so it's probably pretty thin. Some moron laid something on the hood and left some light scratches....it's black so it shows up pretty well and is not the first time for this to happen. Orange peel is gone tho :D Ok, I'll go ahead and get on it with the mirror glaze and see how it comes out. Don't think I've gone through the clear yet because I'm not getting any black color running off with the water rinse.
 
Actually, it's the factory clear so it's probably pretty thin. Some moron laid something on the hood and left some light scratches....it's black so it shows up pretty well and is not the first time for this to happen. Orange peel is gone tho :D Ok, I'll go ahead and get on it with the mirror glaze and see how it comes out. Don't think I've gone through the clear yet because I'm not getting any black color running off with the water rinse.
No color isn't always a sign that all is OK. You can burn through or degrade the clear coat enough that it doesn't show now, but it will after buffing OR after a few heat cycles. Like say for instance, the car sitting in the hot sun for a few days. Factory clear coat (or any clear coat you didn't lay down personally) is tricky, and almost impossible to get a true gauge on thickness. You'll know pretty quick if you've removed to much clear coat ...areas to watch are curves or accent areas in body panels as that's where most uneven sanding can occur ...
 
Well, I guess I'll have to contend with that if it happens. So far, I'm mostly on flat surfaces and have about 1/2 the hood sanded on top. If it works out, I'll have a nice looking half hood lol. Thanks for the replies.
 
2000 is ok, and with factory clear I wouldn't go much further. You will need a compound to remove the 2000 grit scratches. Not sure about Meguiars compounds, been using Farecla and Nortons systems for a few years now and they both have a slightly different procedure. One uses different grades of abrasives to smooth out the scratches, and the other uses the same compound and different foam pads to gain shine. Mirror glaze is a final step after compounding if I remember correctly. Believe it or not, check out YouTube and insert meguiars into the search bar...They have lots of videos explaining their products!
BTW, what make/model of car are you polishing? I was able to polish out a very deep scratch on my wifes 08 Avenger without going through! Normally a repaint.
 
Great article in Hemmings Muscle machines this month on color sand and buff-out. They used the same technique you did, stopped at 2000 grit and went to work with a low-speed rotary buffer and the 3M buffing system. This was on a BC/CC car that never got the love.

Looked great in the article when done. I could not find it online yet. They are 30 days behind.

Randy
 
BTW, what make/model of car are you polishing? I was able to polish out a very deep scratch on my wifes 08 Avenger without going through! Normally a repaint.
A 2000 Durango....I hope the clear coat is good enough. Had a 92 Dakota that sucked as far as the paint was but I hear the pickups don't get as good a paint job as the cars do? Both are/were black (don't have the Dakota anymore) but the Durango looks to have a much better paint job on it.
 
Ya, factory paint can be a crap shoot, my 97 Dakota has great paint...I was surprised I was able to sand out such a deep scratch on the Black Avenger of my wifes. Let us know how it turns out Cranky.
 
with 2000 grit you wont need a very aggressive compound. There area number of good ones out there designed to remove 1500 grit sanding marks that will work fine. I personally prefer wool for cutting.
 
there is a company called wizards and they have some awesome products i personally think there stuffs better than those made by the bigger names in the game if you can find it in your area try the wizards finish cut rubbing compound awesome stuff.
 
Cranky, we like the Meguairs Solo liquid with there recommended pad. We usually use 1k then 2k wet sand, then a quick buff/polish with the solo. You Black will really pop.
 
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