Settled for a 440

[RockyPat]

Hello everyone,

My engine dilemma is finally over.

I picked up a 4006630 440-2 8T E HP block standard bore.

Also got, a forged crank, LY rods, 906 heads, stock Chrysler 4 barrel RB intake, harmonic balancer, water pump, push rods, and main bearing caps.

I paid $500 for the bundle as a rebuildable core disassembled. The cylinder walls look good. I’m hoping it can be bored 30 over to save some boring capacity for future rebuilds if need be.

1. Did I do okay on the price? I didn’t have to pay for fuel, so I considered the savings a bonus.

2. The forged crank doesn’t have a casting number. Can it still be a real Chrysler forged 440 without casting numbers? Me and my dad figured there are no castings because it is forged. It only has these stampings that I have seen:

3. The seller threw in a harmonic balancer, but I believe that it is not correct for a 440. Anyone know what this balancer goes to? Casting number is 4095631. Could it work with my forged combo?

4. Being a cast motor originally, are there any modifications that need to be done to switch it to a forged crank besides taking care of the balancing issues?

I know I need to sonic test the block for piece of mind.

I have read on 440 source that these later 440’s have some benefits over earlier castings. I haven’t checked if it has thicker webbing though.

I’m hoping to make this a mild 440 build maybe around 400hp 500tq.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you FBBO.

 

[RockyPat]

Also in a big block Mopar book by Don Taylor that I have, it says that I can identify the 440 crankshaft by measuring the small main bearing crank journal. It should be 2.75 inches. Anyone know how to do this?

 

[Jerry Hall]

Next stop is a good machine shop to have everything checked. Bore as little as possible. I don't know the availability of pistons in less than 30 over, but the machine shop can tell you if it needs boring at all.

 

[33 IMP]

Definitely a factory forged crank, which means you can't use that balancer, it is counterweighted for a cast crank. I would expect to have the crank ground.
As far as measurements go, it's almost impossible to beat a digital caliper from someplace like Harbor freight. Measure inside,outside, and depth. Should be under $20, and you will quickly learn to shut it off often, to save battery power.
Depending on your experience and tools, you might be able to do some inspections yourself.... but I would have a machinist look it all over.

 

[Tony Tee]

I think you did OK as long as long everything is in tolerance. And the new harbor freight digital calipers have auto shut off. At least mine does.

 

[Dan64]

I think you did fine on the price, $ 400 bucks seemed to be the going rate around here for ever but the numbers are creeping up because the stuff is not around like it used to be. Used to be walking through the local yard you would trip over stock bore, rebuildable 440's, good luck doing that now since "cash for clunkers". I think you will exceed that 400 hp number with ease even on a mild street able build. Good luck and have fun with it.

 

[Moms68]

Everything you'll need to know about Mopar balancers. http://www.440source.com/dampers.htm

 

[440 PHIXX]

I think you did fine on the price, $ 400 bucks seemed to be the going rate around here for ever but the numbers are creeping up because the stuff is not around like it used to be. Used to be walking through the local yard you would trip over stock bore, rebuildable 440's, good luck doing that now since "cash for clunkers". I think you will exceed that 400 hp number with ease even on a mild street able build. Good luck and have fun with it.

I thought cash for clunkers was a big waste of everything. But the last one was 1985 cut off I believe. So no 440’s got the “death elixir”.

 

[Dan64]

I thought cash for clunkers was a big waste of everything. But the last one was 1985 cut off I believe. So no 440’s got the “death elixir”.

Your'e right but i'm still pissed off about it

 

[PRND21]

I don’t think that I would use that balancer with a chunk broken off of it and the elastomer ring appears to be separating.

 

[blue69runner]

Just pop for a new balancer best thing you could do. I would never put an old one on and refreshed motor. We went 20 over on a stock bored 383. Could not find flat top piston's. so put half dome in the motor. What head's do you have. If you have the 906 head's their is room. Your engine shop should be able to tell you if that is an option.

 

[66Satellite47]

It's not a steel crank damper. Get a new one. The motor price seems good for today. An .030 bore should be good. A quality machine shop will tell you what it needs.
Don't think any of my 440 cranks had casting numbers. Stand it on end, with no damper bolt, tap each counter weight with a hammer, listen to see if it sounds like a tuning fork. I they all ring like a tuning fork, the steel crank is good. Then just get it ground to the size that works.

 

[69Bee]

Yes, cast crank balancer, but would tell you to get a new one even if it was for a forged crank. New ones are not expensive and now is the best time to replace it instead of later when you have to also replace all of the other stuff that got damaged when it came apart. One thing I picked up on from your question was this,

"...I picked up a 4006630 440-2 8T E HP block standard bore.

Also got, a forged crank, LY rods, 906 heads, stock Chrysler 4 barrel RB intake, harmonic balancer, water pump, push rods, and main bearing caps..."

Why would you call out the main caps separately? Did the owner say they were from another block? Were they in a separate box instead of installed on the block? If they are not the original caps, be prepared to possibly hear from the shop you take it to to let you know that you have issues. When I get blocks, 99% of the time, the caps are installed on the block, and even then, when I am cleaning up the block, have to inform the customer that the block had spun a main bearing (or mismatched caps) and the block is junk.

 

[bigbluedodge]

If a engine spins a main bearing, doesn't it just need line boring? I thought one of the things the machine shop does for me is line bore the block and square the deck before boring.

Bry

 

[69Bee]

If a engine spins a main bearing, doesn't it just need line boring? I thought one of the things the machine shop does for me is line bore the block and square the deck before boring.

Bry

"IF", and only if the block and cap hasn't been damaged by the spun cap. A badly spun bearing will cause the cap to stretch in the 6-12 O' clock direction and the parting line (3-9 O'clock) will have pulled in and the cap does not register in the block any more. If the damaged cap is placed in the block, and moved sided to side perpendicular to the crankshaft, it should NOT be able to move. If it can move back and forth, it has stretched and is not usable. A cap from another block can work "IF" once it is place in the block, and there is not a large deviation in the position of the bore (cap and block not centered on each other).

So, long story is that a block with a spun main might be able to be fixed, or might be junk. I just sold a 400 block because the customers block was spun, and he couldn't find another cap to try to fix it, so the replacement block was the best solution. The best way to fix it if the block hasn't been damaged is aftermarket caps that have more meat in the because they need to be "Line Bored" to install and then line honed to finish. Aftermarket caps usually have a 0.020" smaller bore to match the original bore position.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

It's great if you can sonic check it...but 400hp isn't pushing the envelope. IF the shop can check it...go for it. Always good to know what you have.
I think you did just fine. Steel cranks are getting harder to find. Hopefully you got a decent block, time will tell.

 

[RockyPat]

Next stop is a good machine shop to have everything checked. Bore as little as possible. I don't know the availability of pistons in less than 30 over, but the machine shop can tell you if it needs boring at all.

Thanks for the reply Jerry. You are correct. Next stop is the machine shop. I have seen Keith Black pistons that are 20 over. I am thinking 20 over to leave myself with more boring potential in the future.

 

[RockyPat]

Definitely a factory forged crank, which means you can't use that balancer, it is counterweighted for a cast crank. I would expect to have the crank ground.
As far as measurements go, it's almost impossible to beat a digital caliper from someplace like Harbor freight. Measure inside,outside, and depth. Should be under $20, and you will quickly learn to shut it off often, to save battery power.
Depending on your experience and tools, you might be able to do some inspections yourself.... but I would have a machinist look it all over.

Thanks for the comment. I thought it the balancer was not correct. Thanks for confirming the forged crank. I am going to borrow a friend's caliper soon to measure things out. I am definitely going to have the machinist look at the block etc. because I am no expert yet.

 

[RockyPat]

I think you did OK as long as long everything is in tolerance. And the new harbor freight digital calipers have auto shut off. At least mine does.

Thanks for your comment. I have seen some nice calipers on HF for decent prices. Maybe I will have to pick one up for myself soon.

 

[RockyPat]

I think you did fine on the price, $ 400 bucks seemed to be the going rate around here for ever but the numbers are creeping up because the stuff is not around like it used to be. Used to be walking through the local yard you would trip over stock bore, rebuildable 440's, good luck doing that now since "cash for clunkers". I think you will exceed that 400 hp number with ease even on a mild street able build. Good luck and have fun with it.

Thanks for your reply. I am glad to hear that you think I got a fair deal. I started with 400 hp because I would like to build something that will be very dependable, yet powerful. I could probably get more you're right.