Shift cable O Ring

Engine, Trans & Driveline

  1. Ron H

    Ron H FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    There’s some members on the forum who know more about these that might chime in. Working with mine over the years (I had mentioned earlier) there’s not a lot of slack; but mine has more than yours shows in your photo. Exhaust shouldn’t be impeding the cable, it routes behind (btw it and the firewall) above the pipe. The wire tie looks to be reducing a bit of slack to the adjuster, and if there are more ties used on the cable, this could be an issue as well. There’s a couple guys on the forum I think khryslerkid, and another couple members, can’t recall their handles offhand, that know a lot on this. Other one is the admin Joe Suchy who knows or could point you in the right direction. There were different cable sizes, but if you would have the wrong one, doubt it would work on the b-body..
     
  2. Stumper

    Stumper Well-Known Member

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    Actually that zip tie is helping a bit. I pulled what little slack there was and used the tie to hold it from relaxing. So your cable runs behind the down pipe too?
     
  3. khryslerkid

    khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    I'm pretty sure my shifter cable ran between the down pipe and the bell housing. This is a picture before I disassembled anything. The down pipe has been removed.
    Screenshot_20220110-114210_Gallery.jpg

    These are pictures with the headers I installed and it's a 440 engine not the original 361. You can use your imagination on where a down pipe would be.
    Screenshot_20220110-113425_Gallery.jpg
    Screenshot_20220110-113459_Gallery.jpg

    I would think you have the original 361 setup. Was the cable replaced at one time? There are several length cables. Also you could look up under the dash and see how it's routed. Might be some extra under there that you could reroute.

    The threaded end can have a little play in the adjuster wheel. As long as you have the correct O-ring on the cable end and it doesn't leak you'll be good.
     
  4. Ron H

    Ron H FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    I can send a photo of mine it this helps, it angles down through the firewall, a dual grommet there, for the park cable. It routes over the exhaust (if I follow what you're asking). Exhaust doesn't come into the picture; but want to be aware of it routed with some clearance from it. As for the wire tie, you'd know being your setup...just looks like to me the tie is causing some upward presssure on the cable.
     
  5. Ron H

    Ron H FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Photos of my cable. Cable has blue dot on it. 2nd photo appears to show the cable laying on top of the header; but it's around 2.5"above it and would be how it was routed over the factory exhaust.

    PB Cable 1_LI (2).jpg PB Cable 2.jpg
     
  6. Stumper

    Stumper Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the pictures guys. I am inclined to believe that mine might be correctly routed after seeing yours. I checked today and it looks like the seeping I had around the adjuster wheel might have stopped. One corner of the pan seems to have stopped too so just one corner left…
     
  7. Stumper

    Stumper Well-Known Member

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    By way of an update on this project. So after getting everything back together with what I thought was the proper O ring for the shift cable - I still had leaks. Some were the pan which I believe I finally rectified leaving me with a slight seepage around the shift cable (not through the cable, that is stopped for now with shrink tube). I found another Oring that fits the groove and is 1/8” thick. The other was 3/32”. Of course beging thicker it winds up larger in OD once on the cable. It is very tight and I will attempt to squeeze it into the hole today greased up - will report back…
    One thing I wanted to do with the cable back out was to find a thin nut that I could run up against adjuster wheel once it was adjusted to help stabilize the cable in the hole. In case you ever have this idea the nut needed is 21/32” fine thread which seem to be unobtainable…. I have scoured the internet without luck. I really do think that a nut up against the wheel would help eliminate movement of the cable (and Oring) but it doesn’t look feasible.
    Hopefully I can cram this thicker Oring in the hole and it stops the leak. I hate to resort to RTV….
     
  8. khryslerkid

    khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    With the proper size O ring there shouldn't be much play the the adjuster wheel.

    I went to a local transmission shop with my old O ring and he matched it up in a matter of seconds. I should have asked for a spare but he wasn't charging me anything. My old one is hanging on a wire with a bunch of other ones so I'm not sure which one it is anymore. It was an odd size not found in your average O ring assortment.
     
  9. Stumper

    Stumper Well-Known Member

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    do you recall if it was 1/8 or 3/32” thickness? Did it slide into the case easily or was it a tight fit getting it in?
     
  10. khryslerkid

    khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Going by what Moe posted in post#12
    "Shift cable '60-'65 .700 X .100"

    The only O-ring I have in my collection of leftovers that measures .700, measures .105 thick which is just under 7/64"
     
  11. Stumper

    Stumper Well-Known Member

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    Finding that bugger seems impossible. The case hole measures .656” which is the OD of the threaded section on the cable. .7” should seal well - but that assumes the ID fits the groove just right. If the ID is too tight the ring stretches under .7”. If it’s too loose in the groove in creates seal issues at the groove. This is frustrating as all get out over a simple darn O ring!
     
  12. khryslerkid

    khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    You have the measurements. .700 x .100
    Try your local transmission shop. Like I stated before it's not a common size. I also posted a link in the beginning of this thread to someone who sells the O-ring set.
     
  13. dadsbee

    dadsbee FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    I would think an AS569A-112 is about as close as you can get with a standard O ring. It's 0.487 +/- .005 ID x 0.103 +/- 0.003 thickness... which would give it an OD of 0.682 to 0.704 across the tolerance range.
     
  14. matthon

    matthon Well-Known Member

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    Another seal to check is the kickdown. There is a NAPA part # that is a perfect fit, I don't know it but I could find it.
     
  15. Stumper

    Stumper Well-Known Member

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    where is that part number for? Napa?
     
  16. Ron H

    Ron H FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Having issues with O-rings over the years, suggest not trying to force an ill-fitting ring in. I never had luck doing this anyway. Among these encounters were the cable and the heater valve ring on my ’63.
     
  17. dadsbee

    dadsbee FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    It's how O rings are spec'd, put that number in google and find a supplier.
     
  18. khryslerkid

    khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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  19. Stumper

    Stumper Well-Known Member

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    I put it back together last night using the closest I could find to a .7” OD. The thickness was only 3/32” so I put another thin (1/16”) in front of it with a bit smaller OD. Filled it back up and so far it seems to be staying dry… Hopefully it stays that way. Now on to the next leak…..
     
  20. Stumper

    Stumper Well-Known Member

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    I am at a loss…. After getting it back together over two weeks ago it stayed dry the whole time and within the past couple of days started leaking like crazy! The car has not moved since it went back together. I assume the converter drain back eventually flooded it enough to start leaking. It’s leaking around the O ring on the shift cable. I’m really at a loss what to do. Hate to resort to packing the threaded cable adapter with RTV. The ORing I used was as close to .7” as I could measure. Any ideas?
     
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