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shift rpm

Cornpatch MO

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I have a 1968 Satty with 318 and 904 Trans. From a stop, in "drive" , IMO it shifts into 2nd right away, and shifts into high gear to soon. Not interested in a performance , hard shift. Is this adjustable and what is the adjustment? Thanks for any input.........................MO
 
I agree with both of the posts from Kryslerkid & moparedtn. Check out the FSM & then play with it. Tightening the adjustment should give a higher RPM shift point.
 
I have a 1968 Satty with 318 and 904 Trans. From a stop, in "drive" , IMO it shifts into 2nd right away, and shifts into high gear to soon. Not interested in a performance , hard shift. Is this adjustable and what is the adjustment? Thanks for any input.........................MO

Are you talking normal part throttle acceleration? How do know it is too soon? Normal factory setting is usually lower than many folks think it should be. They are all a little different, but it's like 18 mph into 3rd. Adjust the linkage if you want it higher.
 
As advised, many times a fast upshift is simply the throttle kickdown rod; if the carb had been changed out or other messing with it, the settings could have been altered or even some parts removed or bent. Check to see how far the rod travels at the lower connection to the trans. At WOT the rod should be close to its max travel. The rod should travel in a fairly straight path though have some wobbling. Ensure the rod isn't binding anywhere. If you lengthen the rod you will likely obtain a little harder shift than before.
 
I agree with both of the posts from Kryslerkid & moparedtn. Check out the FSM & then play with it. Tightening the adjustment should give a higher RPM shift point.
By "tightening" the adjustment, I assume lengthening it ? ....................MO
 
As advised, many times a fast upshift is simply the throttle kickdown rod; if the carb had been changed out or other messing with it, the settings could have been altered or even some parts removed or bent. Check to see how far the rod travels at the lower connection to the trans. At WOT the rod should be close to its max travel. The rod should travel in a fairly straight path though have some wobbling. Ensure the rod isn't binding anywhere. If you lengthen the rod you will likely obtain a little harder shift than before.
OK thanks. Now that I know it is adjustable , I will make the effort to haul my carcass under there....................MO
 
OK thanks. Now that I know it is adjustable , I will make the effort to haul my carcass under there....................MO

Check out you FSM if you have one. I believe you would have a couple of adjustments on the linkage. I call them a rat trap setup. One adjustment is between the carb and the pivot and the other is between the pivot and trans. Might be adjustable from up top.
 
What ‘kid’ said, all adjustments standing with hood up. You’ll get a little bit,maybe 5mph or so; most important is bottoming out throttle lever at trans when carb throttle is at WOT.
 
I am going to guess that making this adjustment will also make it kick down into passing gear ? Come to think about it, I don't think it ever kicks down . I know the PO messed with the carb ( cleaned) and may have had the engine out, so likely the linkage adjustment is not right. .........................MO
 
Aftermarket carbs many times locate the attachent for the linkage further away from the throttle shaft. With the radius increased, the sweep distance from idle to WOT at the carb is greater. The sweep at the trans lever is the same. The trans throttle lever dwon't have full travel. There are different length levers. Or you can cut and weld your own. The mid point travel effects the part throttle shifts. At WOT the lever must be all the way rearward. If the geometry is incorrect WOT can be ok but the part throttle will be incorrect.
Doug
 
OK thanks. Now that I know it is adjustable , I will make the effort to haul my carcass under there....................MO
You should be able to see the rod/lever from above following it down to the trans connect and hold to WOT for this check. Flashlight may be helpful. You can then move the rod by hand having other keeping it at WOT to see how much further it may travel or if the rod has fully dead-ended (ya don't want this). You want to feel about an 1/8 to about quarter-inch travel left. Your adjustments are made up top...no adj down at trans for this chore.
 
Aftermarket carbs many times locate the attachent for the linkage further away from the throttle shaft.

This too. To the OP, do you know if it has an aftermarket carb.?
 
Always use the FSM settings first, then try the “fine-tuning”. No matter the carb,intake,whatever; you need the ‘base’ to start with.
 
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