Shop floor coatings/treatments?

[northerndave]

I'm interested in doing something with the new pour for my shop that will be going up this spring. I want a floor that will mop up nicely and help lighten the place up a bit. Not looking for a white floor but possibly a very light gray.

Epoxy or?

Please if you have any experiences good or bad or observations from concrete floor coatings/treatments at work or possibly a friend's shop... please share your thoughts.

Thanks.

 

[WAYNES WORLD]

I did my floor in light grey epoxy several years ago and like it. My buddy did his in tan with multicolor specs and it looks great but good luck finding any little parts you may drop. I will stay with the solid color in my new shop.
Wayne

 

[snakeoil24]

ive had the best luck with Sherwin Williams maybe since I sell them they ingreidents im partial. Here is the gist.

1. Wait 90 days after concrete has cured.
2. Apply 1 coat 2 part Armorseal epoxy concrete epoxy.
3. Apply Sherwin williams armor thane top coat Urethane.
4. Enjoy. Dont waste youir time on water base products on floors.

Bullet proof.

 

[northerndave]

You, are speaking my language.


And thanks Wayne for the comment on specks/flakes and finding little things you drop on the floor, I can see that happening.

 

[conv67bdere]

You, are speaking my language.


And thanks Wayne for the comment on specks/flakes and finding little things you drop on the floor, I can see that happening.

LMAO . . . see that happening and then not be able to find it ! ! ! ( SMILE ) ( I don't know why that tickled me so much ! ! )

. . . now back to your regularly scheduled program . . .

 

[northerndave]

Tiny screws, roll pins, little springs...

Gone for ever.

lol

 

[318 Six Pack]

Interesting one I heard from Adam Carolla. Give the whole floor a light grind and coat it with clear epoxy floor material. If it were me, I would do epoxy in Petty Blue.

 

[NJRR]

Benjamin Moore Super Spec HP 100% Solids Epoxy. Apply a coat of the clear sealer and then one coat of the gray. Stuff is stronger than the concrete. Prep is the most important, as in any paint job. It is impervious to solvents. Another advantage is that it is odorless since it is 100% solids and has no VOCs and dries fast. Slight disadvantage is that it has a short open time so has to be applied very quickly once the 2 components are mixed and catalyzed.

 

[ws27]

My experience is on the other extreme end. I had mine done professionally. It took a crew of 3-7 people at least four days. Not cheap and I wouldn't recommend it to everyone.

First they shot blasted the cement. Fixed some imperfections. The first coat was called an epoxy mortar. I remember it was a full pallet of just that. Before that dried, 4500 lbs. of sand was broad cast on and into the mixture. The next day, they swept and vacuumed the sand that didn't adhere to the wet coat. Then a layer of epoxy. The final day was a layer of something called poly aspartic (sp?). The whole thing is about a 1/4 inch thick.

I do love it, cleans up very easy. Most of my vehicles leak something, so it's really convenient to just wipe up a stain. I've spilled (well, not me, but a friend) at least 10 gallons of waste oil on it once. A squeegee and dust pan picks up almost everything, then a rag or two finishes it up.

The only thing I'm not too sure how to fix if I even do at all are scratches. Touch ups or recoats I think are going to be a process that I can't do myself.

If you use a system that you can do yourself, then that is not a problem.

Here are a few pics:

 

[northerndave]

Nice, thanks for the pictures.

 

[65hemi]

I used the Rustoleum epoxy floor paint. It is not very durable. The floor jack scratches it very easily. The floor on the side of the garage where I restored my Cuda is just a mess.

 

[Pops1967GTX]

Any Idea for the winters of ny with the salt that you bring into the garage...Which Causes floor Damage(concrete)..... Need to repair floor & treat.......

 

[NJRR]

Pops- The 100% Solids Epoxy will solve your salt and any solvent issues. It resists everything. The only thing is that the prep is very important so you don't get any lifting. Power washing with an oil and grease emulsifier is required, at a minimum. Shot blasting is an option, but that is something you would have to get an outside contractor to do (not a DIY machine). They also make an epoxy concrete patch kit for large repairs. The 100% solids itself fills cracks and holes up to a 1/4". If you give the floor 2 coats of the gray instead of one, it will probably last 20 years. Figure a total cost of $4-$5 per square foot for the sealer and 2 coats of gray as a guideline for materials cost. Yes, I sell the stuff, I'm a Benjamin Moore dealer. I can give you the family discount. You're not too far from me. If you're interested, PM me. Here's a link for the technical data sheet. Put in P40 for the product. http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/for-contractors/product-catalog#advs=0&tab=2

Any Idea for the winters of ny with the salt that you bring into the garage...Which Causes floor Damage(concrete)..... Need to repair floor & treat.......

 

[318 Six Pack]

My experience is on the other extreme end. I had mine done professionally. It took a crew of 3-7 people at least four days. Not cheap and I wouldn't recommend it to everyone.

First they shot blasted the cement. Fixed some imperfections. The first coat was called an epoxy mortar. I remember it was a full pallet of just that. Before that dried, 4500 lbs. of sand was broad cast on and into the mixture. The next day, they swept and vacuumed the sand that didn't adhere to the wet coat. Then a layer of epoxy. The final day was a layer of something called poly aspartic (sp?). The whole thing is about a 1/4 inch thick.

I do love it, cleans up very easy. Most of my vehicles leak something, so it's really convenient to just wipe up a stain. I've spilled (well, not me, but a friend) at least 10 gallons of waste oil on it once. A squeegee and dust pan picks up almost everything, then a rag or two finishes it up.

The only thing I'm not too sure how to fix if I even do at all are scratches. Touch ups or recoats I think are going to be a process that I can't do myself.

If you use a system that you can do yourself, then that is not a problem.

Here are a few pics:

That looks and sounds fantastic!

 

[Propwash]

How do these coatings hold up to welding spatter or a die grinder that accidentally nips the floor?

 

[NJRR]

Prop- As I mentioned in my first post, the 100% solids is stronger than the concrete, but has greater elasticity. It can be chipped though, but is easily repairable. Heat resistance is 300 degrees F, so welding spatter shouldn't be an issue.

How do these coatings hold up to welding spatter or a die grinder that accidentally nips the floor?

 

[1968sublime]

If your placing a new slab. Take the time to install a moisture barrier. It's cheap insurance !

 

[northerndave]

What does that consist of? just a sheet of plastic under the rebar?

 

[NJRR]

X2

If your placing a new slab. Take the time to install a moisture barrier. It's cheap insurance !

 

[1968sublime]

Minimum of 10 mil plastic will do, takes great caution notto damage during pour. Stego makes agood vapor barrier designed for that use. http://www.stegoindustries.com/products/stego_wrap_vapor_barrier.php
Yes, it goes between the earth/base rock andthe rebar.
Concrete is like a big sponge. If any moisture is present inthe ground the concrete will absorb it and MAY cause problems with a floorcoating.
A word of caution about this method is the plastic will notlet the water from the concrete wick into the ground during placement and willextend the drying time which will extend the finishing time. That is a negative for placement but a real PLUSfor the curing of the slab. Concrete is stronger the slower it dries and hasless chances of cracking. I would also wetblanket cure it. Don’t chance it by spraying concrete cure on it. Many floorcoatings will not bond to curing compound. Some cure compounds say they willnot affect floor coatings but again way chance it!
Good Luck !

What does that consist of? just a sheet of plastic under the rebar?