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Should i put it in drive?

Michael_

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I want to clean my cooling system before installing my new glen-ray radiator.
I currently have an aftermarket unit which works but the mounting points for the shroud are different and that sucks so i want to replace it. (Also for originalities sake)

Problem is i currently have an issue with my transmission (i suspect the kickdown linkage to be messed up) but the
cleaner instructions (bars nurals) state i should drive it 20 minutes and then let it sit for 4-24 hours.

Do i really have to drive or is it sufficient to idle (maybe at higher rpm, if so how much?) for 20 minutes aswell?

I would really like to finish fixing my cooling system before starting to work on the transmission because i might need help from an experienced
mechanic (that happens to have a lift and space) with that.
 
If you suspect the KD is goofed up, and this maybe being the only issue and none of the hardware is missing, takes only a few minutes to check it and adjust..
 
So the pump is always doing the same no matter if you're idling or driving around?
Isn't it spinning faster when you rev it up?
 
So the pump is always doing the same no matter if you're idling or driving around?
Isn't it spinning faster when you rev it up?
Since the transmission pump is bolted to the crankshaft (basically) it has to turn any time the crankshaft rotates.
Mike
 
Since the transmission pump is bolted to the crankshaft (basically) it has to turn any time the crankshaft rotates.
Mike

No i was talking about the water pump.
I'm basically asking if the coolant flow/pressure is greater/higher when driving.

I do not really see another reason for driving instead of just idling.
 
Since the transmission pump is bolted to the crankshaft (basically) it has to turn any time the crankshaft rotates.
Mike

I thought the trans pump spins in neutral/drive. Or am I thinking of something else?
 
No i was talking about the water pump.
I'm basically asking if the coolant flow/pressure is greater/higher when driving.

I do not really see another reason for driving instead of just idling.

Could it be that the t-stat needs to be open and flowing? I don't think there is any more/less pressure while driving. I reckon the rad cap dictates the pressure once the t-stat is open. I could be wrong.
 
Could it be that the t-stat needs to be open and flowing? I don't think there is any more/less pressure while driving. I reckon the rad cap dictates the pressure once the t-stat is open. I could be wrong.

But if the t-stat opens or not does have nothing todo with if i drive or idle, right?
The instructions also say i should remove the thermostat, anyway.
 
But if the t-stat opens or not does have nothing todo with if i drive or idle, right?
The instructions also say i should remove the thermostat, anyway.

Oh. I figured the t-stat would stay in while getting it up to temp.

No, drive has nothing to do with t-stat. Engine temp is what governs the t-stat.

I wonder if needing to drive it has to do with flow in the trans cooler (if equipped-probably) inside the bottom of the rad.
 
I thought the trans pump spins in neutral/drive. Or am I thinking of something else?
Since the TC is bolted to the flex plate, and the TC engages the lugs in the pump, it's spinning anytime the engine is rotating, as previously mentioned.
 
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Another question. The cleaning of the cooling system is scheduled for tomorrow.
I replaced the water pump on wednesday and filled the empty system with pure rain water & let it run for 20 minutes at idle.

Lets say i drain it once again and the water looks good, should i even use the cleaner or would this mean the system is clean and i can proceed to install my new radiator without cleaning first?
I have no overheating problems.

I'm not lazy but worry if the cleaner might be bad for my gaskets and hoses and stuff.
I also worry it might clears off some rust/dirt later down the line that then cloggs up my new radiator which would not peel off without cleaning.

So better use cleaner (bars nurals) or don't? (If i should have a choice)
 
Shouldn't use rain water, should be distilled water. I'd suggest re-flushing with a radiator flush cleaner..
 
Unless the system is rusty type dirty I would not use the cleaner. Open the block drains and pet cock on the radiator along with one heater hose. Hook a garden hose up to the hose off the heater core and let it flush for a 1/2 hour. Once flushed and clean button it back together and fill it 50-50.
 
Bar's Nural contains a mixture of aggressive buffing agents that works to clean and scrub away corrosion build-up and sludge within your vehicle's cooling system. This allows coolant to flow freely and maintaining optimum heat transfer to help ensure your vehicle's engine remains at its optimal operating temperature.

Also, the pump in the transmission always turns but the system does NOT allow fluid to pump when in park. Because of this, I like to do all of my maintenance in neutral since I'm certain that fluid will make it's way to the front seal.

And I like to do what pnora said above.
 
Also, the pump in the transmission always turns but the system does NOT allow fluid to pump when in park. Because of this, I like to do all of my maintenance in neutral since I'm certain that fluid will make it's way to the front seal.
This was addressed in previous posts. Citing a '68 FSM for example, it states that in park while running, psi pressures are as follows; line- 5-30, converter-5-30, lubrication--5-30. In neutral they are 55, 30-55, and 5-30 respectively. Interestingly, the lubrication psi is identical both in park and neutral.
 
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