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Small block Dist Point Adjustments How Do You Do Yours?

Moparfiend

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Thought I would reach out to the few folks who are still running points and in particular small blocks.

Two basic questions I am after.

1. First last time I did this there was a window in my Chevy cap that allowed me to make fine adjustments to the Dwell. This was after basic gap setting. I have no such window so is it a PITA like I think its going to be to set Dwell or is there a triack to it to make it easier that you can share?

2. Because the dizzy is all the back near the firewall is it better to just pull the dizzy and set the point gap and reinstall or is this not a good idea?

For those who will ask why ate you even bothering with points.... Mostly money actually. I was told to stay away from thise cheap HEI dizzies and so a good MSD system is out of my current build budget. $5 points aren’t. And secondarily I still have my Craftsman Engine Analyzer from 1977 that I can actually use again lol
 
Thought I would reach out to the few folks who are still running points and in particular small blocks.

Two basic questions I am after.

1. First last time I did this there was a window in my Chevy cap that allowed me to make fine adjustments to the Dwell. This was after basic gap setting. I have no such window so is it a PITA like I think its going to be to set Dwell or is there a triack to it to make it easier that you can share?

2. Because the dizzy is all the back near the firewall is it better to just pull the dizzy and set the point gap and reinstall or is this not a good idea?

For those who will ask why ate you even bothering with points.... Mostly money actually. I was told to stay away from thise cheap HEI dizzies and so a good MSD system is out of my current build budget. $5 points aren’t. And secondarily I still have my Craftsman Engine Analyzer from 1977 that I can actually use again lol


1) No easy way it is a trail and error PITA.
2) I can pull my distributor in about 70 seconds. Much easier and you can do a better job of fine adjustments on the bench.

Jim
 
If you're good at pulling distributors, and yours is that hard to get to, setting points on the workbench is much easier. I pulled every slanted six dizzy, because of not being able to see what your were doing.

If you're doing a complete tune up, you can pull all the plugs, set your points close to where they should be, then useing a starter button on your starter switch, spin the engine watching your dwell. After doing it a few times you will get better at knowing what the gap looks like to get the right dwell. You can do it with the plugs in but I like doing this with them removed, seems a bit easier on things.

I like points, running a Mallory dual point on my 440.
 
If you're good at pulling distributors, and yours is that hard to get to, setting points on the workbench is much easier. I pulled every slanted six dizzy, because of not being able to see what your were doing.

If you're doing a complete tune up, you can pull all the plugs, set your points close to where they should be, then useing a starter button on your starter switch, spin the engine watching your dwell. After doing it a few times you will get better at knowing what the gap looks like to get the right dwell. You can do it with the plugs in but I like doing this with them removed, seems a bit easier on things.

I like points, running a Mallory dual point on my 440.
Great inputs guys! Hey K-Kid actually my plugs are not in yet AND I have my remote starter still connected! If I can do what you say (verify Dwell) with the dizzy in hand while I crank then BINGO hard job made easy!
 
I realize you're on a budget but FWIW if you can afford $76 buy the Pertronix Ignitor 1381A conversion kit from Summit Racing. Install the kit into your distributor, set the air gap, install distributor, wire it into your system (two wires), set the timing and be done.
 
I realize you're on a budget but FWIW if you can afford $76 buy the Pertronix Ignitor 1381A conversion kit from Summit Racing. Install the kit into your distributor, set the air gap, install distributor, wire it into your system (two wires), set the timing and be done.
You want your dizzy installed while you're cranking! Lol
Why ok I think I know why. If it does not spin you cant measure dwell. I presume you also need the ignition on as well....right?
 
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I realize you're on a budget but FWIW if you can afford $76 buy the Pertronix Ignitor 1381A conversion kit from Summit Racing. Install the kit into your distributor, set the air gap, install distributor, wire it into your system (two wires), set the timing and be done.
Hum after looking at the data sheet it looks compatible with my coil. I wonder if it will be able to correctly drive my Sun Supertach2....
 
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Wait till ‘ halifax’ chimes in, he refurbs Sun testers. I had a used dist.tester way way back. I pulled every Chrysler dist. when I had that thing, sooo easy to set dwell.
 
Hum after looking at the data sheet it looks compatible with my coil. I wonder if it will be able to correctly drive my Sun Supertach2....
Wait till ‘ halifax’ chimes in, he refurbs Sun testers. I had a used dist.tester way way back. I pulled every Chrysler dist. when I had that thing, sooo easy to set dwell.
Brings up another question. I used those old Sun machines as well for recurving GM dizzys by way of different spring rates. I dont recall seeing any springs on these Mopar dizzys so how does one recurve them?
 
You can set dwell with the cap off, the ign. switch in the crank position, and a dwell meter connected to the negative side of the coil. You can also pull it out and send it to @HALIFAXHOPS to have the dwell and the advance set up properly.
 
Wait till ‘ halifax’ chimes in, he refurbs Sun testers. I had a used dist.tester way way back. I pulled every Chrysler dist. when I had that thing, sooo easy to set dwell.
Oh sorry after re-reading your post I realize we’re talking about two different things . Actually I was referring to my Sun Supertach2 tachometer not a Sun tach tester. I would like to use my old tachometer. Not sure if the outputs from a Pertronix Ignighter will drive it. I think JimK mentioned this previously.
 
Hum after looking at the data sheet it looks compatible with my coil. I wonder if it will be able to correctly drive my Sun Supertach2....

I would think so but don't know for sure. Does your tach have a sender unit?
 
Oh sorry after re-reading your post I realize we’re talking about two different things . Actually I was referring to my Sun Supertach2 tachometer not a Sun tach tester. I would like to use my old tachometer. Not sure if the outputs from a Pertronix Ignighter will drive it. I think JimK mentioned this previously.

Pertronix Ignitor III will likely have trouble with its double pulse per firing.
 
Thanks Jim. That plate I assume takes the place of the spring assembly. But how cannthat work? It must assume all the distributors react the same? In their example they use 34 degrees as a fixed all in number. Then they clock it to initial. But its the curve that is also key. Scratching my head....

The weights and springs are under the points plate. You can hold the shaft and rotate the rotor to feel the spring tension and mechanical advance. The FBO plate is how you can set the max advance the weights will all (old way was to weld and file the slot in the weights to limit the travel). The kit also comes with new lighter springs to get the advance in faster. You have to get that $#@$%#$ clip that is under the foam puck down inside the star cam to pull it off to get the point plate off to access the weights and springs.
 
Pertronix Ignitor III will likely have trouble with its double pulse per firing.

FWIW, my Autometer analog tach is hooked up to my Flamethrower III coil and Ignitor III ignition and it is rock steady.

On setting your point gap to get dwell, I (before I swapped out to electronic) would mark the distributor base to block, loosen the holddown and rotate the dist to get the points to open and close and set gap, tighten down points, tighten down dist, install cap and then run it on my Sears dwell meter and adjust from there.
 
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