Small block headers suggestion/feedback

1968 -1970 Mopars

  1. pearljam724

    pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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    Considering hugger headers for my 360. Only under circumstances that there won’t be any fitment issues installing them. I don’t want any plug issues either as far as changing them or melting off wires. This would be on a stock street car. I realize, I ll probably only get 10 percent performance gains. I want to do it mainly for sound. I have an aftermarket cam, intake and 4 barrel carb. My car sounds good as is. Opinions, is it worth it ? What is a good header with no installment or clearance headaches ? I’d like to avoid vapor lock issues too, thinking I could use heat wrap.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2019
  2. 66383

    66383 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    If I had it to do over.....no headers on my street car. changing plugs is a nightmare.:screwy:
     
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    • 66 Sat

      66 Sat Well-Known Member

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      The sound difference will be subjective. I've had headers on a few V8's, they seemed to give a deeper tone, but I quite like the tighter sound I have with stock manifolds on my car at the moment. Check for clearance around the starter and oil filter - you may need a mini starter and/or 90° oil filter adapter depending on header brand. You probably won't see many performance benefits until higher in the rev range. Some people also have issues with excess heat and header bolts coming loose.
       
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      • themechanic

        themechanic Oklahoma is OK FBBO Gold Member

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        I looked into this for Uncle Bill's 70 340 Cuda. It has some new ceramic headers on it from the guy he bought it from. We are having plug wire issues on 5 and 7.

        I like the TTI shorty headers for spark plug clearance. They seem to have a shape similar to the HP manifolds for small blocks. http://www.ttiexhaust.com/MoparClassics-Headers/34025-Shorty/TTi34025.htm

        TTI34025.jpg

        A cheaper option by half is the Hedman tight tube headers. Supposed to fit. https://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/78500/10002/-1?ymm=4294829708+4294828902+4294828898

        upload_2019-10-18_18-4-40.png

        500-78500_1.jpg

        https://www.hedman.com/passenger-car-headers?cpable=1&&YearID=1970&MakeID=43&ModelID=2307&CID=340 Buy them cheaper at Summit or Jegs or other vendors.
         
      • pearljam724

        pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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        I have a lot of room on passenger side. Looks tight in between power steering gear box and engine. It’s all bone stock, besides a few engine upgrades.
         
      • pearljam724

        pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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        I like those TTI’s. I agree, the collector is positioned like the stock manifolds. That makes them attractive.
        My engine is a little sluggish on low end. But, mid to high rpms it makes a lot of power for a small block. I’m thinking it’s being held back a little on performance by the stock manifolds.
        The 360 is a little different in reference to changing the stock heads to aluminum. Compared to a 318 or 340. The valve ports on aluminum heads are the same as 360 stock cast heads. For that reason. I don’t think swapping cast heads will help any on a 360.
         
      • themechanic

        themechanic Oklahoma is OK FBBO Gold Member

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        Are you using HP manifolds or log manifolds?
         
      • Darter6

        Darter6 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        I've run the same TTI shortys pictured above on a 68 Valiant. Did a whole install sticky over on A Bodies.
        Honestly the easiest header install I've ever done. No plug wire problems. Outstanding fit. The engine was a 273. The sound was way better than stock. I would believe you would be happy with them.Didn't even have to remove the spark plugs or wires during the install. No need for a oil filter angle adapter, mine had one so I reused it. IMG_2621.jpg IMG_2649.jpg
         
      • pearljam724

        pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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        Intake ? I think it’s called a Edlebrock RPM Performer. I also think it’s considered a dual plane, but not positive. It has 2 intake holes, rather than one big square hole. One side of the intake has a lower floor than the other. I don’t know a lot about which intakes do what. As far as, which application works best for my needs. It was on the engine. When I bought the car.
         
      • pearljam724

        pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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        Thank you, for your feedback. Were you able to keep the original starter too and to you they are worth the extra money spent ?
         
      • Darter6

        Darter6 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        Yes you can but I put a small one in.If you do go with TTI make life easy and get the down pipes with them. I installed the complete system to the rear bumper.They make 2 port sizes small for the 273/318 and large for the 340/360.
        Yes money well spent.
         
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        • themechanic

          themechanic Oklahoma is OK FBBO Gold Member

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          Talking about stock exhaust manifolds.
           
        • pearljam724

          pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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          Stock exhaust manifolds
           
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          • themechanic

            themechanic Oklahoma is OK FBBO Gold Member

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            Most opinions are keep stock exhaust manifolds for street use, ease of changing spark plugs and under hood heat management. Especially, if you already have HP exhaust manifolds on the car now.

            If you want a good sound get Dynomax Ultra Flow mufflers (loud) or Dynomax Super Turbo (not as loud as UF). Use your $1000 you would have spent on unneeded exhaust mods on other things.

            If you insist on spending the money on eaders, get TTI bare metal and wrap them. That coating does not stay shiny. Just ask me or @Dennis H.
             
          • pearljam724

            pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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            Yeah, I think I ll put this off. My car sounds very good as is. People observing the car, love the sound. It has Flowmasters. I want a few smaller upgrades and then I’m done spending. It’s complete and a show worthy car. At this point, I’m just throwing money away. I ll get the TTI headers, if I hold onto the car for more than a few more years. These cars don’t run best when it’s over 80 degrees outside as is. No sense in warming things up under the hood. I’ve been trying to cool it down. Thanks for your insight.
             
            Last edited: Oct 19, 2019
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            • themechanic

              themechanic Oklahoma is OK FBBO Gold Member

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            • pearljam724

              pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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              Thanks, for pointing me into that consideration. I like the Flowmaster sound because I believe they are open on the interior ? I would think the ones you pointed out would be too quite ? But, like you said. Maybe yours sound better. One of those things you would have to hear and compare I guess. I don’t like obnoxious loud, definitely don’t like quite on this period cars either. My video I posted doesn’t depict quit an accurate sound clip.
               
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              • themechanic

                themechanic Oklahoma is OK FBBO Gold Member

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                Just search for Mopar and Dynomax on YouTube to get a feel for what they sound like.
                 
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                • ir3333

                  ir3333 Well-Known Member

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                  what are your drivetrain and engine build specs.Looks like a hi end car!
                   
                • pearljam724

                  pearljam724 Well-Known Member

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                  2.94 Sure Grip. I don’t know exact engine specs, it was rebuilt before I bought it. . I did a lot of mechanical and cosmetic fixes since I bought it last November. It’s somewhat of a dog under 2500 rpms. But, I think that might be normal for the cam that might be in it and it makes it a good street car. It comes to life and pulls like a train over 2500 rpm or over 50 mph. Very good mid to top end power. I assume it makes about 350 hp. Descent for a small block.
                   
                  Last edited: Oct 19, 2019
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