Sniper pink wire issues

[KMopar]

This is on a Cuda 440 but figured might be something Bbody gurus can help with. I am electrically challenged but my mechanic is electrically savvy but we are stuck. I have Sniper with hyperspark distributor, hyperspark ignition box, and HSpark coil.(and Holley Efi tank/ in tank pump). Internally regulated, single wire alternator and Dakota digital dash resulting in mostly gutting original setup. A ton of wire harness mods up to this point resulting in all electrical systems and dash functioning. Fuel pump runs and primes TB but no spark. Apparently no volts in start position. Not exactly sure how pink was wired and I know my guy tried relay Holley suggested without success.
Does anyone use the SAME setup or can throw us a clue. Greatly appreciated. And yes I have read practically every sniper post on a lot of sites But a bit overwhelming since so many varied setups to try to understand.

 

[rmchrgr]

The Sniper ignition pink wires require voltage in both crank and run so you have to tie the IGN1 and IGN2 circuits together. This has to do with the way the ignition switch works. When you turn the key all the way to the right, there's no voltage in the 'run' position. Conversely, when you release the key back to run, there' s no longer voltage in the 'start' position. SO unless you've done this modification, it won't fire because of the voltage dropping out between the switch positions. This is not unique to the Sniper, you'd need to do the same thing if you were using an MSD or similar type of ignition.

You can tie the IGN 1 and IGN 2 circuits together any number of ways but this is how I did it, right at the tabs on the back of the ignition switch. The brown wire is a permanent jumper which keeps the voltage present in both switch positions.

 

[69 GeeTeeX]

You should have a pink wire for the hyperspark distributor and a pink wire for the EFI throttle body wiring harnesses. Both pink wires have to go to a 12 volt source when cranking and when key released to run postition.

On a stock wiring harness I remove the ballast resistor and put the ignition 1 and ignition 2 wires together with both pink wires to provide 12 volts in both crank and run positions.

Also make sure you have the white wire from the distributor connected to the white wire from the hyperspark ignition box. The instructions aren’t very clear about this.

Also do you have it programmed for coil - (negative) distributor or the hyperspark setup your using? Won’t run if coil - (negative) is selected. Don’t ask how I know........

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

As mentioned, IGN1 and IGN2 need to be connected together to provide ignition sense voltage for start and run. On an E-body that is the blue (IGN1) and brown (IGN2) in the original engine harness. Or at the ignition switch Molex connector under the column.

 

[KMopar]

Thanks all for the great input so quickly. I’ll see if we can get this squared away. Any more input is welcome