Stainless brake lines, best methods to stop leaks????

[idrivemopar]

So, a few of my stainless brake line connections will not stop leaking, and I have added the conical copper crush washers in hopes to get a better seal, but didn't seem to work. Any recommendations on next step or best methods to fix this problem????

 

[benno440]

what flare tool did you use and how did you cut the ends in preparation to be flared.

IF you used a tube cutter then that is wrong as it hardens the metal and makes it prone to cracking, you need to cut it slowly with a hacksaw etc.

what flare tool did you use? one of the cheapo manual ones? if so then they will not flare stainless properly you need something like this to do it properly
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kti-70081/overview/

best method to fix the problem is to replace them or pull them off and redo the flares.

what lines and flare nuts are you using? inverted flare? I think is for wildwood type fittings which are a 37* flare I think and the standard old style that most of the mopar fittings are a 45* flare, also did you double flare all of them?

 

[idrivemopar]

I did not make the lines, ordered them from Inline-Tube, assuming they were done correctly as they were specific to the make and model of my car, but once again assuming is not always good.

 

[snakeoil24]

I did not make the lines, ordered them from Inline-Tube, assuming they were done correctly as they were specific to the make and model of my car, but once again assuming is not always good.

Call Inline and explain the problem. Let them solve it. That is what your paying for! Remember the tubing has to have some copper in the ends in order to seal.

 

[5.7 hemi]

If they didn't use annealed stainless, then the lines will crack at the flair, but I don't inline tube using anything but the right stainless.

 

[mrsnicks]

In their instructions they say it can take a couple "seats" to stop leaks and make a good seal. They recommending tightening the fittings, backing them off, and tightening them again. As the stainless is harder than the regular steel lines it doesn't comform on the first tightening. Also are you using new parts (wheel cylinders/dist block/prop valve) that already have a "memory" of the previous seal?

 

[idrivemopar]

Yes, using new parts, and I have tried to reseat a couple of times and no luck on the leaky connections, also tried using copper flare washers still no luck. I did talk to inline tube again today, and they have no answers, their technical support is not good at all. They never addressed the issue I had with my fuel lines, so I just had new ones made locally that fit perfectly. I will figure it out myself as usual!

 

[brasil]

throw those stainless steel lines away... mild steel is the way to go...they will seal 100% better... or if you want to use them.... CUNIFER lines
they are made out of Copper/Nickel/Iron ( rustproof )

Greetings Juergen

P.S the idea to use washer or some other stuff...is not a good one... the flare has to seal the line. !

 

[idrivemopar]

Been debating about just going back to mild steel lines, but I am trying to bring this project home before the end of summer and my frustration is starting to show, especially whith little things like these leaks drive me crazy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[5.7 hemi]

Well there is a bright side to this, once all the fluid is gone, you won't have anymore leaks....lol!! Are you using a tubing wrench to tighten th fittings?

 

[idrivemopar]

Yes, that is true. Found one connection had a bad flare, had my local guy re-do it, tube was a bit long anyway and that may have distorted the flare when tightening, so one fixed!!!! I think this may be the problem on another one as well. On with the inspection of the others.

 

[benno440]

what brasil said was a good idea, all the racing guys or pro touring guys are using that cunifer lines to make theres as it is rust proof but still soft enough to flare and bend easily

 

[rrTor-Red]

In their instructions they say it can take a couple "seats" to stop leaks and make a good seal. They recommending tightening the fittings, backing them off, and tightening them again. As the stainless is harder than the regular steel lines it doesn't comform on the first tightening. Also are you using new parts (wheel cylinders/dist block/prop valve) that already have a "memory" of the previous seal?

Correct. I've used like a two or three step torquing to get them to seat properly. If you just hooked them up and tightened, then they will leak. And if using anything used as well too.

 

[kb67mopar]

All else fails I was recently turned onto a good product. I used this on my entire coronet and it was a breeze to install and easy to flare. I had to re-flare two spots which isn't a surprise since this was my first go around. Super easy to bend and overall a good product. Oh and a bonus...doesn't corrode

http://www.surrauto.com/documents/SURRThereIsADifferenceAlloyBrakeTubing.pdf