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Stalling issue

Richard Cranium

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I'm writing on behalf of a friend who has a 69 Charger with a stroked 472 Hemi & automatic. The engine ws rebuit 7 years ago and is equipped with stock carbs and Mopar electronic ignition and it is equipped with a vapor return line. The engine has been running great for all these years, until last fall when a stalling when this problem started. The stalling happened only happened at idle in gear & it would be a real SOB to restart. When the engine is cold or cools off it's fine until it gets fully warm. This would lend me to believe that it's electrical related so late last fall, one by one, we replaced the ignition switch, ballast resistor, coil, electronic ignition control box and it seemed ok (in the cooler weather) when going for a ride. However, when he recently took it out last week, the stalling situation started once again. I suggested that it could be the pick-up in the distributor, so we swapped out the distributor with a good working one that I had in stock. We did that this morning and it started up cold & all was ok, but 20 minutes into a drive, it started stalling again at traffic stops. This time, however, it would start right up and he would have to "two-foot" it when approaching stops.

The carbs aren't flooding & there does not appear to be any vacuum leaks. The idle is set around 900 rpm. This one is a real puzzler to us. Again, stalling only happens when the car is fully warmed up under the hood.

Any suggestions what to look for?
 
look at the coil have had the same problems on one years ago. the first sign was stalling but of course i did everything else before i changed it. if it is mounted on the intake build a barrier between it and intake to keep the heat off.
 
Im thinking if coil is new it should be fine Is it new or old one? If old I would do what bearman said.
 
if he's two footing it to keep it running my money is on a fuel delivery issue, either too much or not enough. could be a choke or hot fuel situation as well
 
i believe that the engine runs fine at idle hot or cold but when load is present it starts to act up correct.
 
Not if he has to two foot it while stopped and when warm or hot. I would check the choke first. Why would the coil break down without a load put upon and not stumble with one?
 
good point, but all i can say in my past i had the same problem. changed and checked everything i was told to change coil because the inside was shorting out with heat load. i did which it out and never had a problem again but i did build a heat shield for it and worked well.
 
that's okay next look at the above mentioned. my second thought is the master link getting hot
 
Unless there is some kind of special ignition system installed our old mopars require very little voltage to stay running. Not that the master link could not cause it, but would it not also create heat and burn the fuse link?
 
manual or electric pump
 
vapor lock?

boiling fuel flooding the carb?
I have had vehicles vapor lock and no amount of feathering the throttle would keep them running. Maybe something under a needle and seat causing a rich mix. But that would cause a hard start without full throttle or waiting until the fuel evaporated off and the engine cooled.
 
What carbs are on it
They are likely dripping slightly and only causes trouble hot
Time to clean and rekit
 
can you put a pressure gauge on it and see if you get a pressure drop. or hook up a electric pump and see what happens. i still think electrical but could be wrong. what about the ballast is it discolored on both ends
 
Too high on float level? The two-pedal thing is weird.
 
When it dies, does it slowly lose RPM or is like someone flipped a switch and just cuts off?

Sounds fuel related to me.
 
ok if its fuel problem pull the plugs and they will tell the story to much fuel or not enough.
 
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