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Starting issue 1973 Dodge 400

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Would appreciate any ideas on what could be causing starting issue on a 400 engine. I have put 4 starters, 3 batteries, new coil, new starter relay and still no start. It turns over slowly like the battery is going out and the positive cable gets hot after about 15-20 seconds of trying. When it does try to hit once, that's it. Won't do it again. I have double grounded everything I can think of and still won't start. Any ideas!! Thanks!
 
Sounds like the engine has a lot of internal friction. Like it may be seizing up. Can you put a 1-1/4" socket on the crank pulley bolt and turn the engine by hand?
 
Building off what @Big Bad Dad said... I would also pull all the plugs and disconnect the coil. This way we can chase down one potential issue at a time and eliminate others. For example, your engine could be having issues (very bad, hard fix) or your timing is jacked (less bad, easy fix). So, let's get the ignition out of the way and focus on the mechanics of the engine and remove that as a potential problem from the equation (hopefully).

I know you said you have everything grounded... just to double check and confirm.... You have from block to frame, block to batt., and batt. to frame... correct?

Lastly, can you share a bit about the engine setup?
--------------
Ignition stock or modified?
Rebuilt engine or old?
Auto or man tranny?
When did it run last and how was it running?

You know... just give a picture.
 
A bad battery cable, positive or negative can make the starter not work right.

must get power and ground to the starter, at least 200-250 amps. So just because the lights work you could still have a bad cable. Spent lots of time and Money on this problem years ago.

leave the stock cable in the car and just connect up a different cable to test it and see if it changes.
 
Building off what @Big Bad Dad said... I would also pull all the plugs and disconnect the coil. This way we can chase down one potential issue at a time and eliminate others. For example, your engine could be having issues (very bad, hard fix) or your timing is jacked (less bad, easy fix). So, let's get the ignition out of the way and focus on the mechanics of the engine and remove that as a potential problem from the equation (hopefully).

I know you said you have everything grounded... just to double check and confirm.... You have from block to frame, block to batt., and batt. to frame... correct?

Lastly, can you share a bit about the engine setup?
--------------
Ignition stock or modified?
Rebuilt engine or old?
Auto or man tranny?
When did it run last and how was it running?

You know... just give a picture.
New engine rebuild. Automotive machine shop who knows Mopars, best in the area. I am a purist all is back as original as possible. Just found that my positive cable is 1/16" smaller diameter than my 69 440. Automatic transmission. Don't know if 1/16 is enough to make a difference. Yes, the grounds are correct with extra grounds. I can't believe it, but I am thinking for some reason I still need more ground. What do you think?
 
A bad battery cable, positive or negative can make the starter not work right.

must get power and ground to the starter, at least 200-250 amps. So just because the lights work you could still have a bad cable. Spent lots of time and Money on this problem years ago.

leave the stock cable in the car and just connect up a different cable to test it and see if it changes.
Thank you for the reply but my cables are new and original equipment. Positive cable is 1/16" smaller than on my 440. Both sold to me as original equipment. Don't know if this would make a difference. Any thoughts?
 
A new cable does not rule out a bad cable. Bad QC parts has always been around, but is getting more common. I would suggest retrying with your old cable and/or adding a jumper as previously suggested.

Then, a report back on free engine turn over (spark plugs removed).
 
Too small of a cable is bad. A huge red flag is the cable getting hot. You need to flow the same amps on the power side and ground side. Out of the battery, back to the battery.

And a further idea, when the voltage goes down the amperage goes up. Hard on the starter and the wiring/connections. So make sure you have a charged good battery.

Just because cable is new doesn’t mean it’s good.

So back to swapping in another cable. You have changed everything else, nothing to lose now.
 
New engine rebuild. Automotive machine shop who knows Mopars, best in the area. I am a purist all is back as original as possible. Just found that my positive cable is 1/16" smaller diameter than my 69 440. Automatic transmission. Don't know if 1/16 is enough to make a difference. Yes, the grounds are correct with extra grounds. I can't believe it, but I am thinking for some reason I still need more ground. What do you think?
New engine rebuild may be tight until it wears in. I repeat my suggestion to physically turn it over by hand to see if there is a problem. I worked in an engine shop years ago, and have seen new engines be assembled when the bearing clearances were too tight. It happens......
As far as the new cable is "1/16" smaller than another, what are you measuring? Insulation thickness? What is the wire gauge? A bad cable could also be your problem. New parts are not reliable any more, since so many come from CHYNA.
 
Where did you buy your replacement battery cable? It would be good to know. I am about to buy a replacement for my car and want to get the correct one.
 
Considering the number of starters, batteries used etc, I agree with others: high internal friction.

What is the force like turning the engine over via the crank bolt?

This works: connect two batteries in series to provide 24V for starting only. Or two batteries in parallel.

The risk with this is: if something is amiss inside the engine, it may do further harm...
 
I agree with testing how difficult it spins with a breaker bar.
*Have you checked the spark in both start and run position?
If good then pull the plugs out and see how it turns over.
* I assume that the firing order is correct and you are on the compression stroke.
I also agree with trying a different starter cable.
 
Where did you buy your replacement battery cable? It would be good to know. I am about to buy a replacement for my car and want to get the correct one.
It's been so long since I ordered the cables, I don't remember. But I believe Classic Industries may have what you need.
 
I agree with testing how difficult it spins with a breaker bar.
*Have you checked the spark in both start and run position?
If good then pull the plugs out and see how it turns over.
* I assume that the firing order is correct and you are on the compression stroke.
I also agree with trying a different starter cable.
Thank for the help! I think I'm getting close. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
It's been so long since I ordered the cables, I don't remember. But I believe Classic Industries may have what you need.
Sorry, I think you misunderstood. I know where to buy them, I was wondering where you bought yours from so other members and myself don't end up buying inferior products. Classic would be the last place I would buy anything. They have some good products, but their shipping costs are nothing short of a rip off. I hope you get to the bottom of your troubles soon.
 
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