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Starting Problems when car is hot!

GetX'd

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Yeah - it's me again! The GTX turns over fine when totally cold. I tested the battery. Had to replace the "new alternator". Car turned over fine and started this morning. Took it for a 15 mile spin (first one in 35 years). Came back turned it off and it now it won't start again. It barely turns. I don't know what to make of it. New battery, new starter, new alternator, new voltage regulator. It seems when the car is hot it has the problem. When cold it will start.

Any ideas on what it could be? I'm wondering if the voltage regulator needs adjustment? Thanks for any and all help!
 
I'd still be skeptical of the starter...unless it were a NEW one.
 
I'm out. I guessed it was a rebuilt starter. If you saw how most places bench-test them....you'd never buy one.
 
Easy stuff first. Snug and or service battery connections.
 
If it won't crank or slowly, it will be either electrical .. battery, cables, starter.. or a heat soaked starter problems. also Resistance can be probably the root cause in this case.. Check all connection, even removing & sanding contact area's.. When you get it started get your multi meter out & do a few checks…


 
This and steering is called shake-down. Can take a while.
 
Did you check your alternator's voltage output?
We checked the voltage output and it was at 13. The manual says it should be 15. Just not sure that's low enough to be the problem. Can those be adjusted?
 
One thing I forgot to mention was the car won't turn over any better when it's being jumped. It's still a very slow cranking.
 
13.8 to 14.2 volts is what you want & need to run properly…


Are you jumping to battery or directly to starter ?

Question what is setting on timing….ignition advanced too far ?
 
13.8 to 14.2 volts is what you want & need to run properly…


Are you jumping to battery or directly to starter ?

Question what is setting on timing….ignition advanced too far ?

Jumped it through the battery. Would it be better to go direct to the starter? As far as the timing I'm not sure - but I had the engine dyno tuned and they set it then. It's an MSD Ready to Run distributor. They told me I didn't have to change it (?).
 
Just asking, if too much advance it will give you slow cranking...By jumping to starter, your eliminating a wire circuit. make sure you have a good ground & try an extra ground to body to engine.

Question...are your starter wires close to the engine block or exhaust manifold or something really hot..?
 
Just asking, if too much advance it will give you slow cranking...By jumping to starter, your eliminating a wire circuit. make sure you have a good ground & try an extra ground to body to engine.

Question...are your starter wires close to the engine block or exhaust manifold or something really hot..?

Thx Pops - Yes the starter is wrapped around by the headers. That's always been a problem with that car. You actually have to take the header off the block and jack up the engine a bit to get the starter out. The wires and the starter are surrounded by heat.
 
I had a similar problem, but my fuel was boiling out of the carb, a spacer solved that problem
 
I didn't see any fuel squirting into the manifold by looking into the carb.
 
What does that have to do with turning over slow? Yes, a 1/2" spacer helps with ethanol boiling at 173.
 
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